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2nd Gen E-Locker E-Issues

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by PathFinder1776, Feb 1, 2023.

  1. Feb 1, 2023 at 9:35 PM
    #1
    PathFinder1776

    PathFinder1776 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2021
    Member:
    #375045
    Messages:
    193
    Gender:
    Male
    Colorado Front Range
    Vehicle:
    2003 DCSB TRD OR 4WD
    TRD S/C & TRD Boost Gauge Snugtop Topper Chevy 63 Swap, Gen 1 Raptor Shocks Boxed rear frame Aluminum F/R bumpers, sliders AEM 340 Fuel Pump Odyssey 27F Battery Shifted LCAs UCAs Icon 2.5 Ext. Coilovers
    My 2007 TRD/factory E-locker quit working about a month ago. While in 4 low with the locker button depressed, it just blinks like it does when first trying to engage. I intend to swap this axle out as soon as this summer and use an auto locker to avoid this issue in the future, so I'd rather not invest in this axle if I can help it. Just looking for a solution until then since winter is when the truck sees 80% of its use.
    First off, I can assure you that turning in tight circles etc is NOT going to solve the issue. The locker actuator is NOT getting electrical power from the 4wd computer. It is definitely not engaging and just not sensing that it is either.

    Here is what I've know so far:
    1. It seems to have quit after dropping my suspension out to full droop to add the extra RXT leaf and check travel (13.5" down total). It's possible that I overextended the wire harness to the locker at that point. All wires have continuity from the plug to the actuator up to the black plug above.
    2. There is no power getting to the black plug above the actuator plug, or to the actuator plug itself.
    3. The "Locker Engaged" sensor harness works properly. I can jump the prongs and it reads locked.
    4. Hooking the actuator up to 12v is a little confusing. I can hear the motor turn, but the gear doesn't turn. Does it also need to actuate the solenoid to engage the motor to the gear shaft inside the actuator? I didn't pull it apart far enough to investigate. Needed the truck and didn't want to break it and leave a hole in my diff. All the screws were seized and broke off when I was trying to take it apart. At this point I'd likely ruin the actuator getting it apart, and I don't want to invest in another. All it's doing is plugging that hole in the 3rd member for me now.
    5. All other 4wd systems are working correctly

    I was going to buy the Chilkat manual actuator, but I'm likely going to a 14 bolt and auto locker fairly soon. I'd like to solve this problem in the meantime. Anyone experienced this sort of issue and know of a likely culprit? I think my next move will be to check continuity further up in the system. I'm fully in favor of any sort of override or quick dirty fix that doesn't involve investing money into an axle that won't be under the truck permanently. It's cat hunting season so I have a use for the locker weekly.
     
  2. Feb 3, 2023 at 12:59 AM
    #2
    Bivouac

    Bivouac Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2021
    Member:
    #376253
    Messages:
    11,579
    Northern Lehigh Valley Pa
    Vehicle:
    2000 Tacoma 5 speed 3.4
    Remains to be seen I bought the tires and wheels the rest came along
    How long ago was the last time you did engage the locker??

    Remember even one intact wire will ring out but be unable to supply the needed current to operate the solenoid .
    The solenoid triggers the actuator to lock things .

    You can hook things up direct make sure to use a pilot light when engaged
     
  3. Feb 3, 2023 at 9:36 AM
    #3
    PathFinder1776

    PathFinder1776 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2021
    Member:
    #375045
    Messages:
    193
    Gender:
    Male
    Colorado Front Range
    Vehicle:
    2003 DCSB TRD OR 4WD
    TRD S/C & TRD Boost Gauge Snugtop Topper Chevy 63 Swap, Gen 1 Raptor Shocks Boxed rear frame Aluminum F/R bumpers, sliders AEM 340 Fuel Pump Odyssey 27F Battery Shifted LCAs UCAs Icon 2.5 Ext. Coilovers
    The last time it worked was mid-December. Looking back, it worked for a couple of weeks after I had it drooped out all the way. I used it two weekends in a row, and it quit the next weekend.
    I tested each wire individually, and they all showed 1.6 ohm when measuring from one pin to the corresponding pin on the other end of the plug. That seems a little high, but they all read exactly the same. This was with a $10 multimeter, maybe I need to use a better one.
    I need to swap my battery and alternator this weekend so I'll probably charge up the old battery and use it for some manual testing after I get that done.
     
    Bivouac[QUOTED] likes this.
  4. Feb 9, 2023 at 11:09 AM
    #4
    PathFinder1776

    PathFinder1776 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2021
    Member:
    #375045
    Messages:
    193
    Gender:
    Male
    Colorado Front Range
    Vehicle:
    2003 DCSB TRD OR 4WD
    TRD S/C & TRD Boost Gauge Snugtop Topper Chevy 63 Swap, Gen 1 Raptor Shocks Boxed rear frame Aluminum F/R bumpers, sliders AEM 340 Fuel Pump Odyssey 27F Battery Shifted LCAs UCAs Icon 2.5 Ext. Coilovers
    Anyone have any luck running wiring directly to the actuator and bypassing the 4x4 ECU? Maybe the way guys are actuating them when adding E-lock axles to vehicles that didn't come with them from the factory?
     
  5. Feb 12, 2023 at 12:51 AM
    #5
    6 gearT444E

    6 gearT444E Certified Electron Pusher

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2018
    Member:
    #243372
    Messages:
    7,770
    Deep South
    Herculiner Hootus
    The locker anytime mod uses a DPDT relay and the oem switch, really simplifies the operation.
     
    PathFinder1776[OP] likes this.

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