2nd Gen e-locker help

Since I purchased my rig from the previous owner the locking differential has never worked, I have a 2010 TRD off-road with the factory e-locker. There are many threads and videos on this subject but all deal with 1st gens or swapping a locking diff from a non-locked diff (aftermarket/diy wiring harness)

The symptoms: I press the button on my dash, it blinks continuously and does not turn solid to indicate the differential is locked. Now let me stop you there, yes I have tried this in 4hi, 4lo, done circles, figure 8s, on slopes, at speed, and with the axle dropped from the springs spinning the hubs manually. Even though what I have read has told me It should lock without being in 4x4 and without the engine running and just the key turned.

What I have done in attempts to fix it: Removed the locker, disassembled it apart from taking off the solenoid cover. I then cleaned all the corrosion off the parts, sprayed electrical components with contact cleaner, used dielectric grease to reassemble the gears and red RTV sealant to put the cover back on.

With a 12v battery jumper and 1st gen wiring diagrams I figured out how to make the gear "lock" and "unlock" off the truck (see attached pic). For those who want it, I will post instructions on which pins need to be connected to accomplish this (requires a jump between 2 pins along with +&- power on another 2, different pin combo for lock and unlock)

I placed the truck in 4hi and pressed the lock button before putting the locker back after confirming my E-locker itself is completely operational, I hooked it back onto the truck with the motor&gear in the locked position and the differential itself locked by manually sliding the rack with a screwdriver. When I started my truck again after installing, my diff was locked and the light on the dash was solid. When I pressed the button again to unlock it, it worked and the light disappeared! thinking I had fixed my problem I attempted to re-lock it with the button and nothing happened.

In summary, I can manually lock my diff by supplying power directly to the pins, and I can unlock it with the button in the cab. But when I try to lock it again with the button in the cab it will not engage.

This makes me assume my problem is with the wiring between the motor and button, possibly the ECU.
Any ideas?

 

On a factory offroad, the locker will only engage in 4low.
With my 06 or, I go 4hi, neutral 4low, hit locker button and when it starts flashing put trans in drive and move forward turning the wheel (but not real sharp) one direction or the other until the locker engages and the light goes solid.

Once you get it to work, exercise it once a month to keep it working.

 

The TRD e locker was never designed to work in anything but 4low. Not 2wd (unless Prerunner), not 4hi...4low only and only at real slow speeds. It sometimes takes mine a minute or two to lock in place but it usually goes in after driving a few feet in a straight line.

If it's blinking it's getting power so at least you have that ruled out if it's truly not working properly

 

My bad, just tried in 4low to no avail

 

Anybody out there?

 

There are two electrical connections, one for the elocker and one for the sensor. Have you pulled the sensor and cleaned it? 24mm socket ought to be the correct size. How bout the locker breather, is it clear of debris? Have you taken a look inside where you pull the locker motor out, is the gear pushed to the right indicating that it is disengaged? How bout signal wires, you follow them to the cab to make sure there's no breaks or shorts? As said before, in the owners manual, it says you must be in 4L to engage the locker, sometimes you have to roll the vehicle for it to engage.

 

the locker itself is 100% including the gear and breather. I cleaned the second plug with contact cleaner but did not remove the 2 bolts. My bed is off so I followed the wires until it they go into the cab and didn't find breaks. I also checked the fuse for the elocker and it was not blown, I'm unsure the location of the ECU or how to determine if that's my problem.

 

I think on second gens the locker ECU is behind the glove box?

 

Bad actuator ?

 

Yes it is


I have the w locker mod on mine

 

I've already explained the actuator is fully operational, I got it to lock and unlock with a 12v battery. How do I inspect/rule out the ecu?

 

While you had the act. out did you try to move the shift fork?

Did you try plugging in the act. and getting it to move while it was out of the rearend with the truck wiring?

If you are getting a flashing light on the dash, it would seem that the problem is in the rear.

From what has been discussed here I would be leaning toward a sticking shift fork.

Just my thoughts, trying to help.

 

@sparkystaco Yes, I tested the locker out of the diff and it did not work. I hooked it up to the wiring and the gear didn't move like it did just using a battery. I locked the diff with the fork when I reassembled and had the actuator in the locked postion. Once I got it on I was able to unlock the differential with the button but not lock it again.

 

Have you tested the switch and it's plug at the dash?

 

My light blinks and doesn't turn solid. I can unlock my differential with the button but cant lock it again. Thinking ECU or broken wiring somewhere. Cant seem to get access to the switch without taking the dash off, how should I be testing it?

 

Not sure how you would test the switch, seeing as the act. is not spring loaded I would think that the switch would have to power the motor both ways, (I suck really bad when it comes to electrical) and I'm poor so I like to pray that whatever is wrong will be a cheap and/or easy fix.

You said you could jump the act. and lock the rearend, have you tryed getting the truck into 4low on jackstands and jumping the act., then with the dash switch pushed in plug the rearend in and see if it will stay in w/ the light on solid.

 

Yes I have tried that, it does not recognize it is locked for some reason. Another time I locked the actuator before putting it back on the diff, locked the diff manually and put it in 4lo depressed the switch then installed the locker. That time the light was solid but now just jumping thing into locked it only flashes, which is weird.

 

It will flash if the plug is not connected at the diff.

 

There's a sequence to get the locker, at least in my 06. It's in the manual and I think on a sticker in the visor? First you have to be in 4low then from D Brake till stopped, stays on brake, still on brake shift to N, then push the diff lock button. If not done in the correct sequence you get the light flashing and that's all.