2nd Gen e-locker help

I jumped the motor, replugged the wiring then started the truck with it already in 4lo and the lock button on. Just flashing.
I have done every combination of stopping, starting, turning, swirling, twirling and shes pooched. Going to make my own circuit and run my own wiring so I have a couple questions. Should I supply the actuator straight 12v power or add resistance and how do I get access to/use the factory button.

 

Okay new problem, spent weeks on and off sourcing parts and running wire to the rear diff. Spliced into the rear harness with 4/5 wires that connect to the actuator, I left out the negative thinking the factory negative would do the trick. Huge mistake... I could get the locker to lock and unlock with a battery and alligator clips before but now that the wire is running to the cab minus the negative when I hooked up the battery again It locked for good. Used unregulated 12v current from a booster battery.

My rear diff is now stuck in the locked position and the truck nor my manual wiring will unlock it. I think I fried the ECU, I hear a clicking from behind the glove box everytime I press the button and my 4lo is acting strange aswell. Now I have to tear out all my wiring, take the actuator back off and manually unlock it.

Summary- Shit is even more broken. Considering the $450USD cable lock (http://www.chilkatdesigns.com/E-Racer.html)

Save me money and help please!

 

Pull the locker motor off and with a large flat head, push the lock pin toward the driver side tire to unlock your diff. Now you're unlocked and 4wd ought to behave.

 

Try this its worth a shot. Put truck in 4 lo make sure it is engadged. Turn wheels to all the way to the right. Put the truck in neutral and press rear locker see if it engages.

 

Also must sing lyrics to Bohemian Rhapsody while you're doing this.

 

Thought the same of turning the wheels to engage/disengage elocker.

 

lol its always the simple things

 

Before you go the cable route, why wouldn't you just do your own switch/wiring to the ACT. (as you know the wiring now) and bypass all the OEM security BS of 4LO and what not (Locker any time)

 

Tis

 

You do realize that the locker actuator does not run on a full 12v right? This is why in the first gen FSM it tells you to test it using the heater relay. Continuously applying 12v to the motor will burn it out, which may have happened in your case. At this point, the only way for you to figure out if it is still good is to follow the procedure in the FSM.

Did you ever check the locker position sensor? This is what tells the computer that the locker is, in fact, engaged. If it can't sense this it will never work. I added a complete locker rear axle to my 1st gen and wired it up to act like a stock truck. When I first tested everything after I installed it, I got the same result as you with the flashing light. I then realized that I actually forgot the hook up the ground wire. Once I did that it worked perfectly. CHECK YOUR GROUNDS. Grounds are almost always the culprit when it comes to electrical issues. They are also usually pretty easy to fix.

 

If people just read my previous comments most of this stuff has already been tried, I believe I burnt my 4WD control ECU and the actuator. My truck will not go into 4 LO and a buzzing sound comes from the computer behind the dash at startup, Also a clicking noise whenever I go turn the 4wd knob or try the locker button.

I'll probably go with the cable locker but that doesn't fix 4LO and Totoya is going to charge me a fortune to fix/replace that computer.

 

You never confirmed the operation of the contact sensor in the diff. You can test it with an ohm meter.

Here is one theory (prior to nothing working now):
You said you could unlock it with the button, but not lock it. If it was able to unlock, then the locker ECU works. It functions the same way locking as it does unlocking, just sends power down the opposite wire.

There are 2 things that could cause it to unlock but not lock. One is the 4L detection and one is the contact sensor. To rule out the 4L detection, perform the “grey wire mod”. If you don’t want to permanently do this, then just temporarily ground that wire. For testing the detection switch in the diff, you need to follow the specs in the FSM.

 

subbed

 

I have experienced all the same issues as yours with a couple exceptions:

1) If I have the actuator disconnected from the truck, it operates in both directions.

2) When reconnected, all I get is flashing light.