2nd Gen Factory Frame Replacement | Preparation & Have Extra Work Done During Process?

Apparently I was able to jump the wait list for my new frame swap. Originally I was told it could take up to 6 months, but the dealer I am going through had a frame arrive for another customer who's Taco was recently written off due to an accident. I just go the phone call today and apparently I'm next on the list as a result.

They mentioned that if anything not related to the frame was to break, or need to be replaced I would be on the hook for it.

I'm considering having the following items added during the frame swap since labor is the same.

-MBRP Dual Exhaust (Old exhaust has to be removed and reinstalled anyways)

-Short Headers (Old exhaust has to be removed and reinstalled but this may bring additional labor charge because they may not remove headers from the engine when doing frame swap)

-Energy Rad support / Cab / Body Mount Bushings (New frame comes will all new factory bushings, but why not do it right the last time -- need to see if the dealer will install aftermarket bushings)

-Extended Brake Lines -- Where to order and what length? (The new frame installation package comes with new brake lines, but in preparation for the 3.5 LT lift, should I order extended line and have them install them ahead of time?)



Does anyone have any suggestions on stuff to add to this list to have the dealer install while doing all this work at the same time? I plan to try to order everything in before January.

Thanks.

 

Anything they are going to replace I would get in writing with cost.
When my frame was done I asked for shocks/struts to be replaced which they never did.
Right before it was ready they gave me a list of things that "were bad"and needed to be replaced.
I told them put it back together and I picked it up.
Was total BS even had items checked at a independent shop.
I know this didn't answer your question just putting this out there as a warning.
Not saying all dealers a bad- just the one that did my frame

 

I'd not mess with anything on your list, except the exhaust, IF the old exhaust is toast. (not the headers, they don't need removal, you'd be paying shop labor rate for that)

I'd be more worried about things like the PS rack/lines, AC lines, radiator/hoses, motor/transmission mounts, suspension bits that mount to the frame, hard brake lines/blocks, ebrake cable/hardware, fuel lines and wiring harness sections that are frame mounted.

It's not a trivial job. I suggest you get under the truck and look over everything mounted/attached in/to the frame and try to evaluate their condition.........

 

I would do what Bill suggested. Generally speaking, I would also just let the dealer swap the factory stuff and not complicate the job.

FWIW, I'd keep the new factory cab mounts. They're pretty good IMO, parts retail for about $50 each, that's like $200 total.

I do recommend swapping the factory radiator ones for ES.

 

I had my frame replaced in august, dropped it off wed afternoon and it was ready by fri, the only thing I paid for was a bad wheel cylinder, I fucked with the service guy (cause it wasn't bad when I dropped it off) who said $125 to replace until he got the price down to $75 and that's all it cost me.

Your idea's sound good on paper, but my opinion,,,,
1) exhaust work including headers? your going to get the raping of your life, no pillow will muffle the screams, (wait and find a muffler shop if it's that important to you) or do it yourself,

OEM body mounts are fine no reason to change them.

As far as brake lines, the dealer only replaces the hard lines, does not include the rubber lines going to the calipers or the rear axle, this is the one thing that you should consider if your set on extended brake lines, but they will charge you as much as they can for this to suck as much as they can out of you.

Remember this is warranty work, they only get paid so much for frame replacement, anything else they can charge you for is like a big bonus for the stealership which is already getting a big chunk of change from the frame swap, extra's are not included in what corporate pay's, so you will.

 

The new frames are stamped with the vin I was told when my frame was swapped. Apparently they are built on a case by case basis.

 

Talk to them and ask, my dealer cut me a good break on a lot of parts and labor

 

I had them put my new moog tie rod ends.Hey they have to algin it anyway.You get new leafs lower control arms rear frame brake lines rear wiring harness.i don't know about headers dealer may not do.

 

Sounds sketchy to me. Not you, but whoever told you.

Even if they are VIN stamped, that can be after production, precluding a case by case scenario.

But I'd go back to your source and ask them to show you one.

 

That was from the dealer when I saw 2 frames sitting there. He said the one on top was mine.

 

The frames are not stamped but have a vin sku sticker for delivery and tracking.

 

My frame replacement is in work. Pretty amazed at the damage and perforations in my original frame.

 

@DistortedAxis- Is your frame replacement part of the $3.4 billion class action lawsuit? They found hole in my frame in October and Toyota refused to replace the frame saying they already treated it even though it obviously didn't work? Now the service manager is telling me to just wait for the lawsuit to get sorted out. Sorry, I don't want to high jack your original post. Just curious how your getting your 06 frame replaced.

 

Just curious, did your frame fail because of the expansion of the frame layers in your pictures or did you also have holes/perforations (10mm) too?

 

I have the same question as Markcal........

 

That's good to hear that you aren't stuck with an undrivable truck and hope it works out for you getting your frame replacement.

 

There were 4 spots where there was a physical holes in the frame, and the swollen areas.

 

My dealer recommended gas tank straps. I also bought exhaust, rear drums/shoes/spring kit, front rotors/pads, sway bar and rack/pinion bushings, getting gear oils changed, might replace lower oil pan/gasket if it's rusty looking as labour would be next to nothing. Basically look over truck and see what it needs.

 

I inspected my stuff when the truck was apart, the tech told me I didn't need anything my truck was very clean compared to some. No smoke wrenche use never had to cut it all came apart. Wonder what it pays the tech in hrs?

 

My truck has lived it whole life in the north east of Canada. I know it'll need more parts and some things will have to be cut off.