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2nd Gen Full Front End Rebuild (Suspension/Drivetrain)

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by blahbaconblah, Nov 13, 2022.

  1. Nov 13, 2022 at 10:18 PM
    #1
    blahbaconblah

    blahbaconblah [OP] Member

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    I just finished my front end rebuild on my truck and thought it might be helpful to dump everything I learned here for anyone else interested in doing anything I just did.

    Part 1: Before
    IMG_2730.jpg
    20181123_141107.jpg
    20180623_104257.jpg
    2009 Tacoma (2nd gen) - Regular Cab - 4x4 - 4cyl - 160,000 miles. 2nd owner - The truck has been sitting mostly unused for the last 3 years. Mostly stock. The vehicle is, to my shame, painfully neglected and in need of various repairs. As you can see, this truck has also been everywhere from the highest point in the Lower 50 (Mt. Whitney) to the lowest (Death Valley, pictured above). I have decided that I am going to re-light my love for this truck by making it my hobby project to rebuild it to something comfortable and capable.

    Huge shoutout to my ugliest, but most awesome friend, Eddie, for helping with this. His experience, comradery, and roaring farts were instrumental to this build, and could not have been done without him. He can be my build supervisor anytime.

    - 2 inch suspension lift with Bilstein's wrapped in OEM springs. Far too stiff
    - Rack and pinion failed about 4 years ago, and never felt like forking out money to replace it.
    - Passenger CV boot torn/missing.
    - Sway bar bushings and links failed.
    - Tie rod ends failed.
    - Lower control arm bushings failing/cracked.
    - Upper control arm bushings failing/cracked.
    - Upper control arm ball joint forced to maximum articulation by lift. Suspect soon to fail.
    - Severe unidentifiable "clunk" when driving over speed bumps at any speed over idle.
    - Severe wander at speed when hitting even light bumps in road.
    - Large volume of grease/gunk buildup from failing cv boot and rack.
    - Clutch slipping - Likely needs to be replaced.
    20221104_203541.jpg
    20221104_203615.jpg


    Part 2: What to fix and how?
    After much deliberation with my wallet (and wife) and researching multiple routes of addressing this rebuild on Tacoma World (thank you to everyone that posts here) I decided on the following fixes.

    - Clutch: I took this to a local trusted mechanic. Yes, I probably could have done my own clutch, but there are certain parts I just prefer to let a professional do. Also, while under the truck my mechanic found that my water pump was leaking and that was thrown into the repair. OEM clutch, flywheel, water pump and new serpentine belt w/ labor $2,500

    - Rack and Pinion / Tie Rod Ends: This is easily the most worrying part of the build for me. Not only are these rack and pinions particularly difficult to replace physically through the frame members and components, but installing it incorrectly will make aligning the vehicle impossible without properly reinstalling it. I was quoted over $2k by my local mechanic in parts and labor. OEM racks, or at least the ones Toyota will give you, are over $1k. Another option is to purchase a NEW (not remanufactured) unit and hopefully get a warranty. I decided to go this route. I purchased my rack from AutoZone for approximately $650, and intended to install it myself. This might not be the BEST rack and pinion available, but cost to function ratio, I am willing to try this route. Spoiler: I installed my new rack in 3 hours, alone, in the dark. I think if the rack and pinion makes it 40k miles and I have to replace it, I will be happy.

    The tie rod ends were also purchased from AutoZone with a lifetime warranty, and have zerk fittings installed. They were $66 for the pair and do appear to be very nice.

    - Sway Bar - I purchased the sway bar links and bushings from AutoZone (you will notice a trend here) with lifetime warranties, and zerk fittings on the links. These items come with lifetime warranties, and are very easy to replace should they break, or wear out. They may not be the best, but swapping them out can literally be done in the parking lot. These parts landed somewhere around $130 and appear to be very nice.

    - Upper/Lower Control Arms - I wanted to upgrade the vehicle in every reasonable way I could. On the spectrum of using full OEM parts to installing 3.5" long travel from Total Chaos, I decided to land somewhere in the area closer to OEM dimensions. This is a 4cyl truck with 160k miles, and its a regular cab. I cannot justify long travel expenses, so I opted to remain at stock control arm lengths. For the uppers I decided to purchase Total Chaos's tubular, uniball upper control arms. https://www.chaosfab.com/product/2005-2015-Tacoma-Stock-Length-Upper-Control-Arms-96504. Retail roughly $850 depending on your options. I can justify this expense as I intended to upgrade my coilovers and get away from ever worrying about a ball joint again. I will spare you the rant on why using aftermarket control arms like this are superior.

    The lower control arms could have gone a few ways, the first being $2k for Total Chaos units. Not worth it at stock width in my opinion. Second option was sourcing OEM lowers with bushings an ball joints. I could not find OEM from any source including calling Toyota dealerships. The last resort for a new unit was an aftermarket such as Moog or the old trusty AutoZone lifetime warranty type. I read countless posts about aftermarket units, and could not come up with a clear winning product that I wanted to buy, and I had another option in mind... I could also rebuild my OEM units that are on the truck using Whiteline ( I recommend purchasing these on Amazon, but be certain to check part numbers) poly bushings and (you guessed it) a zerk fitted lower control arm ball joint option from AutoZone with a lifetime warranty. I decided to take both the second and third option. First I purchased new LCAs from AutoZone fitted with balljoints and bushings with a lifetime warranty AND I purchased Whitelines poly bushings and AutoZones LCA ball joint. The plan was that I would attempt to rebuild my LCAs myself, and if I failed, I would just install the complete LCAs I purchased. If I succeeded, I would just return the complete LCAs to AutoZone.

    - Shocks (shocks! shocks! shocks! shocks! everybody! - by LMFAO) Again, I want capable without ridiculous. King's remote reservoir 2.5 ext. These come standard with 600lb springs, which is too much for my 4 cyl, so swapping into some 500 to 550s is likely going to happen at the first service interval. These also pair very well with Total Chaos's uppers, and I can purchase them with the UCAs. I think we all can understand this choice, so lets move on.

    - CV Axle - AutoZone. Lifetime warranty. I think you get it. OEM unit was unavailable, and lets face it, way too expensive. Note: I will rebuild the existing OEM one and keep it as a trail spare.

    - Tools - Replacing ball joints and LCA bushings is not something I have ever done before. I needed some tools. I landed two specific kits that I would like to very highly recommend.

    - Ball Joint Service Kit - "ABN Ball Join Press Tool Set" I am very please with this unit at a wallet melting $48. It is likely from some far off region that has not child labor laws, and if abused will certainly send shards of molten OSHA violation into your eyes, but greased well and NOT OPERATED WITH AN IMPACT DRILL, it worked very well, and I am happy with its performance. I believe the OMT version of this item was featured on the Torque Test Channel on YouTube. Take a look. Not the same item, but again, I am writing this to share my experience and thoughts.IMG_20221104_132213_01.jpg

    - Bushing Service Kit - "WINTOOLS 27 Pcs Universal Press & Pull Sleeve Kit" At $130 I cannot recommend this item highly enough! Again, not abusing this item with an impact drill, and being sure to grease the threads, and thrust bearings thoroughly, it made very easy work of installing the new bushings. I am VERY happy with this item, and cant wait to get to use it again on a similar project. I was able to use the largest of these allthread rods on the truck, which was great. This kit also extended the usefulness of the balljoint service kit mentioned above. I very highly recommend purchasing both to be used together.20221106_175315.jpg

    - Bench Vise - Get a bench vise. Mount it to a thing. I rebuilt mine specifically for this project (also slapped this work bench together for this project).20221106_101420.jpg

    All other tools are pretty typical items you would likely have in your garage already.

    Step... 3? 4?... I think we are on 3.
    Step 3: Prep and Ordering

    - Prep -
    1. Have a bench and bench vise handy.

    2. Plan your build as though you are currently installing it, and have a backup plan incase things don't work out. If I couldn't press the bushings, I have a local shop that could do it for $30. If that didn't work, I had new complete LCAs already purchased.

    3. Have at least 2 jacks, and 4 jack stands. If you lift the truck evenly, you can bounce mor fluidly from one side to the other. Which will save you time in completing each faze in unison.

    4. Checklist: Grease, brake cleaner, degreaser, PB Blaster or similar rust remover, Anti-seize, latex gloves, rags, catch basin for fluids, headlamp, zip ties, bailing wire, bungie cords, owners service manual, list of related torque specs, grease gun, flashlight, camera (take pictures of cam bolts and such before disassembling), Grease/Paint Markers, and all related replacement fluids I.E. power steering and differential.

    5. If you are planning to do anything like this, stop what you are doing, and go PB Blaster your bolts right now. Repeat this once every 2 days, until you begin your project, and continue to do so as you work on your project.


    - Ordering - I ordered the Whiteline bushings from Amazon, and they were discounted. I also purchased my specialty tools from Amazon. AutoZone either had all of my parts in stock, or had them shipped to me or the store within 2 days for free. Very nice. I live near Total Chaos so I picked up the UCAs and King shocks in person. Both King and Total Chaos are very lovely companies to deal with, and they are all enthusiasts. If you have any questions, just call them and any human who picks up the phone will likely be more than happy to help you.

    Step 4: Installation (Long Section)
    This section will be very long. I will break it down in the order I worked, and try to be as detailed as possible. I will separate each piece of the build as best I can. If you are reading along trying to do this yourself, just remember to breath when you get frustrated or stressed. It's all going to be okay.

    Step 4.1: Rack and Pinion

    - Rack and Pinion - Scary, but surprisingly easy to accomplish. Here is a video I recommend you watch. It is VERY useful in preparing for this project. I did this install alone in 3 hours. Have a paint marker handy. I did not, so I had to install the new unit twice.

    20221111_165125.jpg

    After the initial setup of jacking up the truck, removing wheels and skid plates etc. it is very important to take a few steps to ensure this goes smoothly.

    1. Flush your power steering fluid. This is done by removing the return line from your power steering pump, and inserting it into a container. Quickly cap off the open nipple on your power steering pump. Then, with the engine off, cycle your steering wheel, back and forth, adding fluid to your pump. Do not let your pump run dry. Add fluid after every full rotation of your steering wheel at the very least. Watch the container you are using carefully, as you don't want it to overflow. When your contain is filled with new fluid, you have removed most of the old fluid. Repeat this as much as you are comfortable.

    2. Lock your steering wheel at dead center using a bungie cord.

    3. When removing your tie rod ends, be CERTAIN you count the rotations as you rotate them off. You will count the rotations as you reinstall your tie rod ends.

    Beyond those steps, removing your rack and pinion is very pedestrian. Advice I would like to share is:

    1. Jack your truck as high as you safely can. Doing this job, laying on your back looking up is not only very difficult, but also dangerous. Power steering fluid is very bad to get in your eyes or mouth. Working with your truck in a more elevated position will allow you to get at eye level with your work, where you will be less frustrated, and much safer.

    2. Release your front transfer case mounting bolts and let them droop. I recommend placing a jack under your front diff, but you can likely get away with not having one there. This is less of a recommendation and more of a "go ahead and try not doing this". I can say that because I tried, and I failed.

    3. When you have removed all of the mounting bolts, and hoses that supply the fluid, and you are ready to remove the rack, you will want to slide it all the way to the passenger side of the vehicle until the tie rod can be pulled out toward the front of the truck, and with it the rest of the rack. You can also remove the tie rods to make this easier. I did not, and likely will not in the future. Removing the old and reinserting the new is very difficult due to space constraints. Be patient, and take your time.

    4. CHECK YOUR O-RINGS! The supply lines that attach to the rack will likely be deformed or damaged. Help you, help you, by replacing them. Make sure you use o-rings that will not be damaged by petroleum based fluids such as ATF fluid or power steering fluid.

    5. Center your Rack. The video I posted above details this, but the short version is, turn the rack so it is maxed out in one direction, then turn it till it is maxed in the other direction and very carefully count the exact amount of rotation it takes to get to the other side. Mine was 3.5 rotations, so I centered the rack at 1.75 rotations and marked the spindle and the body of the unit where I would be able to see the marks while installing. I used a sharpie, and fully installed the rack only to find that my markings had wiped off, so I had to uninstall the unit, recenter it, then install it again. FML.

    6. When reinstalling the steering shaft to the rack, I had to do a fine balance between fully inserting the spindle into the drive shaft, and installing the driver side mounting bolt for the rack. I could not do one, then the other. I inserted the spindle into the driveshaft coupler about half way, then wiggled in the driver side mounting bolt very carefully, then finished inserting the spindle.

    7. To refill the rack and power steering pump, cycle the steering with the engine off while filling the reservoir between turns. After several cycles, turn on the engine for a second to allow the power steering pump to churn air out of the system. Repeat these steps as necessary. If your pump screams on startup, you likely have air in your system. Continue cycling steering with engine off.

    This will be your life for a good 30 minutes... so be prepared for some mechanics yoga...20221111_175839.jpg

    Step 4.2: Lower Control Arms
    - Lower Control Arms - I am lucky. I do not live in a salty road state. The underside of my truck is very healthy, even when neglected. Similarly the cam bolts that mount the LCAs to my frame were not seized. If yours are, my condolences.

    Before beginning I took multiple photos of all of the cam bolts to note their position for returning my alignment back to as close to correct as I could.20221112_090126.jpg

    These photos were instrumental in quickly adjusting my alignment to "close enough" for short travel to my alignment shop of choice.

    I removed the lower balljoint connecting bracket and used bailing wire to secure the gusset and brake assembly out of the way. This was also aided by some bungie cords. My ugly ass is added for scale.
    IMG_20221113_212244.jpg

    As you see above, the new rack does not yet have tie rod ends installed. Having them out of the way for this was great.

    The next step was installing the lower ball joint. I decided to do this while the LCA was still bolted to the frame. This made my truck a lovely counter weight for all of the torqueing I would be doing on the ball joint press.
    IMG_20221113_213317.jpg

    With the snap ring removed, and spacer cups placed, I used a breaker bar, NOT AN IMPACT DRILL to turn the very well greased driving bolt on the tool. The ball joint came out with a firm, but brief, resistance. Use the PB Blaster.

    IMG_20221113_213313.jpg

    The end result should look like this:

    IMG_20221113_213311.jpg

    We then used the same tool to install the new AutoZone Duralast units:

    IMG_20221113_213319.jpg IMG_20221113_213320.jpg

    After the ball joints were satisfactorily installed we moved on to the bushings. Removing the OEM bushings from the LCAs was honestly my favorite part of the build. It mixed a few things I love into one dangerous act that I got to repeat 4 times! High pressure pressing, and flame throwers. I was in redneck heaven.

    20221112_143054.jpg

    Start by placing a high pressure canister of highly flammable gas firmly between your legs, and as close to your scrotum as your hips will allow, and, with a grin, start a fire. Use that fire to heat the bushing in the LCA, while the LCA is locked in your bench vise. Simultaneously, use at least an 8 ton bottle jack to "press" the flaming, molten cylinder of bushing out.

    Be certain to put your face directly over the bushing while you do this!!!
    IMG_20221113_213304.jpg IMG_20221113_213305.jpg

    If you are "Boring" and "Safety minded" and "don't want to loose an eye" you can place a heavy moving blanket over the bushing while you press it out, like this pussy did:

    IMG_20221113_213259.jpg

    (Seriously this is sketchy behavior, but super fun to do at parties)

    The blanket will absorb the force of the bushing rocket as it leaves the LCA at escape velocity. Be careful though, because the bushing will be hot enough to melt a typical blanket and set it on fire.

    After the bushings are out, you should take some time to clean the LCA as best you can and wire brush the inside of the LCA where the new bushing will be pressed. DO NOT LUBE THIS AREA. The bushings are to be pressed into place and are held in with only friction. If you lube the LCA where the bushing is installed, it COULD compromise the integrity of the part, and the lube will not help with the installation much anyway.

    The installation of the bushing after this was complete went surprisingly well!

    IMG_20221113_213254.jpg

    This is the OEM bushing with the Whiteline poly-bushing and my crotch added for scale. I wont go into the pros and cons of the Whiteline bushings over the OEM, but you can (AND SHOULD) watch a video here. Lets just say, the Whiteline option is... better.

    The pressing tool I recommend above did a fantastic job.

    IMG_20221113_213247.jpg IMG_20221113_213252.jpgIMG_20221113_213250.jpg

    Again, with properly lubed threads, and thrust bearings, and NOT USING AN IMPACT DRILL, I was able to single handedly provide enough force to press these bushings in, without lubricating the LCA. A fantastic product, I cannot recommend enough.


    AAAAANNNNDDDDDD.... For now I must call it a night. I will try to finish this writeup of the build in the coming days. Its getting late and I must go.









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    IMG_20221113_213316.jpg
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    IMG_20221113_213319.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2022
    Taco 2005, nd4spdbh, PzTank and 7 others like this.
  2. Nov 14, 2022 at 6:36 AM
    #2
    Weissenheimer

    Weissenheimer Well-Known Member

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    Love it. Got a good chuckle reading this. I'm planning on re-doing my front end as well. Minus the steering rack, for now.
     
    PzTank and Falldownhard like this.
  3. Nov 14, 2022 at 1:23 PM
    #3
    Chicago77

    Chicago77 Well-Known Member

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    Hey, Im curious how you determined the rack was bad vs just the tie rod ends.

    I am going to be doing the same thing plus a lot more rust :( and knuckle/swaybar/cv axels). I am kindof hesitent about replacing the rack because of cost, I dont like bleeding things, and the struggle to replace it wihtout a lift. I know my tie rods are rusted beyond return so i was thinking of just replacing those without the rack.
     
  4. Nov 14, 2022 at 6:40 PM
    #4
    blahbaconblah

    blahbaconblah [OP] Member

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    I am no expert on rack and pinions. In my experience, I have had 3 friends with 2nd gen Tacomas, whos rack and pinions all failed around the 100k mark. When mine began leaking at a similar mileage I just accepted that it was dead and investigated no further. It could be that I suppose, but if your tie rods are in that bad of condition, what are the odds that your rack will live much longer? In my opinion, its worth it to just swap it out, and that opinion is even stronger now that I have seen how relatively easy it was to swap. I double checked the price, and the highest end unit I could find from AutoZone was $612 before tax. That's not terrible if you do the work yourself, and it has a lifetime warranty.
     
  5. Nov 14, 2022 at 6:44 PM
    #5
    blahbaconblah

    blahbaconblah [OP] Member

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    I hope my experience comes in handy for your future underhood installation adventure.
     
  6. Nov 16, 2022 at 3:57 AM
    #6
    Weissenheimer

    Weissenheimer Well-Known Member

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    I think what came in handy the most was a good attitude and persistence! I refused to be defeated. Just got done installing struts and upper control arms, took me 7 hours...Ended up having to cut both of the lower strut bolts. And I now have biceps of steel, those upper strut nuts were STIFF. So stiff they were smoking from me ratcheting them off by HAND! Had to take my motorcycle to get new hardware (luckily we haven't seen snow yet). What an ordeal but man does it feel good to ride on new suspension!
     
  7. Nov 16, 2022 at 9:09 AM
    #7
    blahbaconblah

    blahbaconblah [OP] Member

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    Dude that's awesome! I bet that feels great doing that on your own. Also, living in southern Maine, I bet the underside of your truck is just crazy with rust, which makes it even more incredible you did that.
     
    Weissenheimer[QUOTED] likes this.
  8. Nov 16, 2022 at 9:14 AM
    #8
    Weissenheimer

    Weissenheimer Well-Known Member

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    FN FX wheels, Dobinsons suspension, air bags, other bells and whistles
    Yeah it is truly horrific what the winter and road salt will do to a truck. However, every bolt I have replaced gets anti-seize. The next owner/mechanic that touches my truck will cry tears of joy.
     
  9. Nov 16, 2022 at 10:00 AM
    #9
    blahbaconblah

    blahbaconblah [OP] Member

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    The small details like caring for every nut and bolt make the satisfaction of driving it feel even better.
     
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  10. Jun 26, 2023 at 8:51 AM
    #10
    Arrowshot

    Arrowshot Well-Known Member

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    just finished refurbishing my LCAs with the Whitelines. How critical is aligning the two small pinholes? Know they say to get them horizontal but I ended up with some of them slightly off as in pic below. I called Whiteline and they said there should be no issue but they have a product to sell. Appreciate any insight you might have.

    20230626_104121.jpg
     
  11. Jun 26, 2023 at 8:57 AM
    #11
    blahbaconblah

    blahbaconblah [OP] Member

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    I did this on one of mine as well. I decided to just leave it. I wanted to return to it when I get around to rebuilding my control arms down the road and see if it wore any differently than the others that were installed correctly. Unfortunately I have only gone 7k miles on mine so I'm not there yet.

    If I had to venture a guess I would say you are fine. I really doubt that will cause you any issues. If you feel like its going to bug you forever though you can always just press them back in and out again. But again, I think you are going to be just fine.
     
  12. Jun 26, 2023 at 11:12 AM
    #12
    Arrowshot

    Arrowshot Well-Known Member

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    New to using presses and doing this so probably why they were misaligned. Not the easiest task getting it right first time. Thanks for the info and will install like they are and try to get next set closer to specs.
     
  13. Jun 26, 2023 at 11:20 AM
    #13
    PzTank

    PzTank Stuck in the Well

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    Hey @blahbaconblah , excellent write and pics. Humorous too :thumbsup:

    If you still have that rack sitting around, give these folks a looksee:
    https://www.cvjreman.com/

    If rebuildable, it’ll be better than Autozone…
     
  14. Jun 26, 2023 at 2:32 PM
    #14
    blahbaconblah

    blahbaconblah [OP] Member

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    Thanks. I wish I had discovered this previously. I do still have the rack laying around, but I don't see me needing it in the near future.
     
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