2nd gen gen2 Trd superchaged MAF sensor

Anybody got info on what’s the best MAF sensor for acceleration power to put in? I have a k&n intake and replaced Maf once already. I realize Phoenix heat isn’t good for running boosted. Running stage two cold plugs. How often do these maf sensors go bad? More so in Phoenix here im sure. Since computers don’t like 175 degree streets. Cleaning maf isn’t clearing code. Rock auto has a bunch of different ones. Should I go back to the stock oem maf?

 

Stock OEM MAF sensor. And switch back to the normal heat range for your spark plugs.

The stock MAF won't know the difference whether you're in the middle of summer in Phoenix or Alaska or a real scorcher in the Middle East driving through a sandstorm with a .50 Cal mounted in the bed.

What CEL are you getting?

 

Maf senor CEL. I’ve kept up with all of the other recommended maintenance that you said except for the upstream downstream O2 sensors they have never been done 102 thousand miles. Could bad o2 sensors give maf CEL codes?

 

And fine you’re not the first one to say put back the stage one, it’s a bitch but have swapped plugs so many times it’s easier now. .

 

1. Personally, I think O2 sensors are consumables but there are some that say don't replace until they give up the ghost. If it was my truck, I would budget for 4x O2 sesnors replacements in the future

2. No, I don't think bad O2 sensors will pop a MAF code.

3. If it is indeed a CEL that faults the MAF, then replace it, don't clean it anymore. Get the MAF from toyota or from RockAuto if they sell one from Denso, etc

4. Spark plug replacement on this motor with the blower is a pain in the ass...we've all been there. Find a friend with small hands and an assortment of swivel joints for the rachet.....or pull the blower.

 

Dang thanks I really don’t know a lot about the motor. Had no clue there were four o2 sensors. I did the write up for the supercharger plugs last year but I write worse than my mechanical skills so it might be a little hard to follow. I’ma do the o2 sensors bc I feel like I need to do everything at this point. Like timing chain, blower and transfer case rebuild soon. Just did 2 of the drive shafts and 3 u joints, main drive shaft bearing, and the whole front end. Everything except the passenger inner front diff bearing. ( Still shakes a tiny little bit dammit!) I’ve been reading that passenger inner front diff bearing is the easiest, so I guess I saved the easiest for last, if what I understand is the truth.
Removed stupid spacers and replaced with 2023 front strut assemblies. 2023 everything except LCAs. Rear shocks and leafs, 2023 rims. Just want to rip wheels good again! Thanks for your comments I really appreciate your support.

 

The MAF code is likely due to your intake. Many of the aftermarket intakes do not have the same ID at the MAF housing, or their design alters how the airflow is distributed as it crosses the MAF.

You could have your ECU recalibrated for your intake or switch to a stock intake or another aftermarket intake that has a bit closer tolerance on their MAF housing sizing.

I promise you it’s not the heat.

 

Or the oil from your K&N MAF killer did it's magic.