2nd Gen Information & Diagnostics

It is for sure a great resource.
Most people have no idea how much work he ( @Dm93 ) put into this.
Post #7 alone was MONTHS in the making.

 

up-date, took to dealer and found no codes, I came home and my friend found codeO456 (Evap small leak) but when truck's engine was overhaul, is was parked for 4 months before work was done. I drove it and light hesitation. now is has difficulty accelerating on highway. dealer replace gas cap and traction and engine lights went off. any advise is greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

So no more engine lights.
But hesitates worse going up hills (under a load)?

Converters stopped up?
What are your fuel trims?
Fuel trims under load?

 

Where are the O2 sensors on my 2007 tacoma?

 

Your pre-cat sensors are on your exhaust manifold. Your post-cat sensors are on the Y-pipe right after the primary catalytic convertor.

 

Upstreams are Air/Fuel Ratio Sensors, Downstreams are standard O2 Sensors.

 

I have a slow leak on fuel lines from driver’s side engine compartment. I parked it overnight and gas smell dried up. Drove it the next morning. Gas smell is back/dampness on line again. Any thoughts/suggestions?

 

Is it leaking where the quick connects are or is the line itself leaking?

 

Been on TW forums for quite a few years & this is the first time I've come across this great thread.

This thread should be sticked in the 2nd gen forums "Mods & Tutorials" menu.

 

It is stickied at the top of the 2nd gen section, my 4wd thread is listed in the 2nd gen Tips Mods And more sticky.

 

if you don't want to buy a bench power supply, a cheap PC power supply and a breakout board is a great way to get +/-12V +5V and +3.3V for testing.

$11 CHENBO 2pcs 24 Pins ATX Power Board Computer PC Power Supply Breakout Module Adapter 12V 5V 3.3V

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S91NQL3?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

Would be kinda neat for bench testing but shouldn't be needed for on vehicle testing as you already have 12v and 5v, not really anything on automotive uses 3.3v

 

hello, this thread has a lot of wiring knowledge, and I was hoping to get some advice. I have a 2013 standard cab manual everything. I have started to do a few mods (cruise control, intermittent wipers, steering wheel controls, replaced clock with inside/outside thermometer) over the weekend i installed heated seats (not wired to panel). I would eventually like to do power windows, locks, and mirrors. in preparation for these upgrades, I replaced the center switch panel (image attached) {switch list from outside - in } heated seat switch, power window (future), 12v power, head unit wire, and then it repeats in reverse.
lastly, a previous owner added fog lights and wired it directly to the battery, I would like to move them to be ACC power and want to add a light bar or grill lights down the road.

my questions revolve around how/ where to tap into power for these accessories. Interestingly i have the same cabin fuse panel as all 2nd gens, but 9/20 slots do not have power to them. the door lock (which don't exist) has power and the blank on the top row has ACC power when the lights are on.

all in all I figure I could be adding 9 ish fuses
1. how much work would it be to pull the capin panel and add wires to these unused slots?
2. it would be cleaner, but is it worth it?
3. would it be better to add a side panel that is ACC power?
4. where is the best place to pull power for fog lights etc?
5. Knowing the scope, what would you do?

thanks

 

So if I understand correctly you wanted to add and utilize the fuses that would be there on a fully equipped truck?

 

in theory, yes, the way i figure, the structure is there, and I can do the work (with a little direction) for what is missing. Its dark. But as you can see the box is the same. There is just no power to the fuses

 

Yea as far as I'm aware the box is the same, I bet the P/W Relay is missing. It plugs into the back of the box, now whether or not the pins are in the connectors for the stuff that's missing I do not know but they can be added if they are not.

Here's a schematic drawing of the inner circuits of the Driver Side J/B for 2013




And the Pinouts

 

Now you will need to be careful about your total current load if your adding any other accessories like the seat heaters, I would recommend doing an aux panel then if you want it to be on only with ignition use a relay triggered with an ignition source to power it.

 

Amazing!! thank you, I can't tell you how grateful I am...
From what I understand from the drawings, the power comes into the J/B via 1A and is distributed to the relays & fuses, then back out the corresponding letters that align with each circuit. Do you work for Toyota or something? How do you have all this at your fingertips? so when I look at connector A1 I do not have a wire in pin 2 would you happen to have the engine J/B to see where that comes from? that would give me 3 more usable fuses. again I'm very appreciative.

 

They come and and go out from more than just 1A.

 

It looks like there are 3 empty slots.
In from 1A and out on 12 of 1H, 21 of 1H and 4 of 1E/1O