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2nd Gen Lift Question From A New Guy

Discussion in 'Hawaii' started by cubiclesurfer, Jul 15, 2014.

  1. Jul 15, 2014 at 12:57 AM
    #1
    cubiclesurfer

    cubiclesurfer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sheldon
    Kapolei, HI
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    howzit everyone, I'm new here, so please go easy if this has been covered a million times.

    I recently picked up a 2014 TRD Sport 4x4 DCSB. I'm looking to put on a decent lift without going full adjustable coilovers. I wanted to go up maybe 2.5", but no more than 3" since I'd be using my stock UCA's until I can buy some better ones. I can get the parts together through a friend, and this is what we're thinking about so far:

    Front - approx. 2.5" lift:
    - Bilstein 5100 (adjustable)
    - OME 884
    - Toytec 1/4" top plate spacer (correct driver side lean)

    Rear - approx. 2" lift:
    - Bilstein 5100 Extended (part #: F4-BE5-B110-T5)
    - Toytec/Deaver AAL (part #: D10045K73, Toytec lists it as "TAC-AL")

    He's going to assemble the front suspension prior to shipping it to Oahu. So, based on the parts listed above, I have a couple questions. Based on my rear setup, should I:
    - Run the front Bilstein's at 0 with OME 884's?
    - Run the front Bilstein's at 0.85" (one setting up) with OME 884's? Will that stiffen up the ride too much?
    - Are 885's with the front Bilstein's at 0 too much for me (no armor/winch/added front weight)?
    - Have you guys experienced the driver's side lean? Trying to figure out if the top plate spacer is really necessary. I want to assemble the front suspension right the first time since any change will probably need a realignment :(

    I talked to fellow TW member bullaculla, and he was able to confirm that a diff drop isn't needed on the 2nd gens, so I was able to strike that off my list. woo hoo!

    I know this is not really a cut and dry answer, but any insight or opinions would be greatly appreciated!!! I hope to meet you guys and eventually get my truck out to one of the TW meetups.

    mahalos...
     
  2. Jul 15, 2014 at 9:14 AM
    #2
    luka

    luka Well-Known Member

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    Kailua, HI
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    Prerunner -> 4WD Converted
    Pelfreybilt Bumper & IFS+Mid skid, Warn Zeon 10-S, BAMF Sliders & LCA/Diff Skids, DTRL toggle on/off, FJ OEM Fog/Aux Light switches, 2012 lower center console swap, wired in auto-dimming rear view mirror, Wet-Okole inside, Weathertech Liners & Vent Visors, Rigid Duallys fogs, 35%/5% front/rear tint, Roto-Pax, Bestop SuperTop, OME 90000/886 Front, OME Dakars+AAL/extended 5100 Rears, Extended SS brake lines, TRD TX Pro/Baja Graphite 16" Rims
    884's at .85 setting might be enough, or 885's on the bottom setting.

    those rear bilstein shocks are for a 4" lift and if you use them, you will have to raise your bump stop so you don't blow them out on compression.

    I had a bit of driver side lean, and the best way to figure out what you need is to install everything and cycle the suspension and measure, then add spacers = half of the lift desired. 1/4" top plate spacer will lift ~ 1/2"
     
  3. Jul 15, 2014 at 11:38 AM
    #3
    cubiclesurfer

    cubiclesurfer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I sent you a PM, but I should've kept the info here for future reference.

    What would be needed if I kept those extended 5100's with only an AAL? Extended bumpstops, extended brake lines, etc? If I never go higher than 2" lift in the rear, should I stick to the standard 5100's?

    The only reason we tentatively decided on extended 5100's was to keep my options open for a bigger rear lift if I decide to do it.
     
  4. Jul 15, 2014 at 11:49 AM
    #4
    808leo

    808leo Well-Known Member

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    '13 Sport DCSB SW 4x4
    5100s, OME 885, Driver side spacer, 2" aal, TRD exhaust, 5k HIDs, LED interior lights, Grillcraft grille, 1" Bora wheel spacers, 12" P3 sub, Wet Okole seat covers, G Tek sill protectors
    The 885 on bottom notch got me 2.5" and if you want to go tad higher can always throw on the small spacer.
     
  5. Jul 15, 2014 at 12:00 PM
    #5
    cubiclesurfer

    cubiclesurfer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    right on, good info! I've been finding that you should run OME's on 0, so maybe 885's are the better route, especially for double cabs?

    are you running standard length 5100's in the rear and what AAL do you have? The AAL I listed in my original post is supposed to provide 1.5"-2" of lift too. just trying to sort some of this out before I put in my order. thanks!!
     
  6. Jul 15, 2014 at 12:12 PM
    #6
    luka

    luka Well-Known Member

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    Kailua, HI
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    Pelfreybilt Bumper & IFS+Mid skid, Warn Zeon 10-S, BAMF Sliders & LCA/Diff Skids, DTRL toggle on/off, FJ OEM Fog/Aux Light switches, 2012 lower center console swap, wired in auto-dimming rear view mirror, Wet-Okole inside, Weathertech Liners & Vent Visors, Rigid Duallys fogs, 35%/5% front/rear tint, Roto-Pax, Bestop SuperTop, OME 90000/886 Front, OME Dakars+AAL/extended 5100 Rears, Extended SS brake lines, TRD TX Pro/Baja Graphite 16" Rims
    yup, extend/lift the bump stop so it hits the bump before the shock compresses to the collapsed length. think its 16.75

    there is another rear 5100 for 1-2" lift, I had those before getting the b110.

    extended brake-lines are if you plan on drooping the rear...don't think the oem leafs droop enough to need it.
     
  7. Jul 15, 2014 at 3:37 PM
    #7
    808leo

    808leo Well-Known Member

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    5100s, OME 885, Driver side spacer, 2" aal, TRD exhaust, 5k HIDs, LED interior lights, Grillcraft grille, 1" Bora wheel spacers, 12" P3 sub, Wet Okole seat covers, G Tek sill protectors
    I got stock rear shocks on actually. I have the 2" AAL from toytec and that's exactly the amount of lift I got. I have slight rake but I like it.
     
  8. Jul 16, 2014 at 12:23 AM
    #8
    raycie

    raycie Well-Known Member

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    OME 885s w/ 13mm Top Plate, LR-UCA, Dakars, Timbrens, 5100s all around, Pilfreybilt Aluminum front plate bumper, Snugtop Shell w/ Thule racks, AFE ProDry S, Foglights w/ parking lights, DIY DTRL mod, Rigid Industries LEDs, Weathertech Digifit, Bed Mat, DIY Maglight Mod, 265/70/17 on 17x9 Procomp 7069s.
    884s on a DCLB gave me about 2.25". I have since added the top plate for the full 3".
    Remember that an AAL will sag over time depending how often you carry loads or not. Many have done the 3 leaf AAL.. those who do it right go full Dakar (j/k for all you non-Dakar guys...lol)

    Seach the oahu thread.. Kaleo has an AAL and/or block, recently installed extended 5100s, and did big ass bumpstops...
     
  9. Jul 16, 2014 at 2:10 AM
    #9
    polekasta

    polekasta Well-Known Member

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    add a leaf, Bilstein 5100's
    Wow Neil, no mention of timbrens?:rofl:
     
  10. Jul 16, 2014 at 3:44 AM
    #10
    TRDeeznutz

    TRDeeznutz I climb curbs

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    Tint, hids, fog light mod, leds, flowmaster super 44 muffler swap turn down, 5100s with ome 887, rcd 5100 shocks, wheelers 2" aal and fabtec 2" tapered block
    Yeah its a 1.5" aal an a 1" block. I only got the 4.5" energy bumps to be on da safe side but the actually do help. Ill probly buy wheelers superbumps down da road, after i get da AP expo leaf pack.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2014
  11. Jul 16, 2014 at 9:20 AM
    #11
    raycie

    raycie Well-Known Member

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    Lol... yes, quality and full function does come at a price, and many are not willing to pay that price.. lol...

    Many don't ever carry heavy loads in their trucks anyway.. and along the same lines, for all the SB guys, not much fits back there in the first place.. lol..
     
  12. Jul 17, 2014 at 9:07 PM
    #12
    Vigo

    Vigo 4X4 Lifted, Locked, Geared, Blown.

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    stuff...
    I would get the extended brake lines for the rear. My stock leaf pack with add a leaf flexes enough to need them. I am not too sure if the trd sport, with the extra leaf, may flex differently, but you don't want the brake line to act as a limiting strap. This is with the B110s, though. Or you can stick to shorter shocks that still have extended length as mentioned before, there are also the bilstein 5160s to consider.
     
  13. Jul 28, 2014 at 1:25 PM
    #13
    cubiclesurfer

    cubiclesurfer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    ok, thanks for the input, everyone! I've kinda narrowed it down to the following:

    Front - :
    - Bilstein 5100 (adjustable) - set @ 0
    - OME 885
    - Toytec 1/4" top plate spacer

    Rear - approx. 2" lift:
    - Bilstein 5100 (changed to standard length)
    - Icon 3-leaf AAL

    trying to figure out if I'm gonna end up with rake, and if so, Wheeler's suggested the 10mm top plate to get the front up to approx. 2-3/4". so this leads me to the following questions:

    1. if I go up that much more on the front, should I be getting new upper control arms too?

    2. Wheeler's lists the 10mm top plate kits in both steel and polyurethane. what are the pros/cons to each one?
     
  14. Jul 28, 2014 at 5:05 PM
    #14
    TRDeeznutz

    TRDeeznutz I climb curbs

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    Tint, hids, fog light mod, leds, flowmaster super 44 muffler swap turn down, 5100s with ome 887, rcd 5100 shocks, wheelers 2" aal and fabtec 2" tapered block
    I think u get about 2.5" with 885 springs then 1/4" top plate spacer gives u the full 3". An the icons are 1.5"?
     
  15. Jul 29, 2014 at 5:49 PM
    #15
    cubiclesurfer

    cubiclesurfer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    yeah, Icon is supposedly 1.5", but I've heard from a few different sources that are saying closer to 2" on a DCSB. should be good cause I think I going pass on the 10mm kit for the 885's, and just get the 1/4" top plate spacer. now I just gotta order it! :D:D
     
  16. Jul 29, 2014 at 5:54 PM
    #16
    cubiclesurfer

    cubiclesurfer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I guess my last question is, steel or polyurethane 1/4" top plate spacer??? :confused: :confused:
     
  17. Jul 29, 2014 at 6:52 PM
    #17
    TRDeeznutz

    TRDeeznutz I climb curbs

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    Tint, hids, fog light mod, leds, flowmaster super 44 muffler swap turn down, 5100s with ome 887, rcd 5100 shocks, wheelers 2" aal and fabtec 2" tapered block
    I think mines is aluminum.
     
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