2nd gen manual transmission fix

@Canadian_Shooter is correct. Since the kit was designed specifically for the RA60/61 transmission and the OE clutch stack height (the total height of the flywheel and clutch) their is no need to set the air gap as the spacer and overall total height of the release bearing are what gets us the required air gap. Setting the air gap does come into play if you were to say have purchased the universal bearing kit and you were setting the kit up and had to make a custom bracket/spacer.

I know Clutch Masters wants to do it again. I’ve talked to them about when that might happen and they want to officially get setup as vendors on the forums. Sounds like they’ve tried to contact the forums about doing that a couple times but they said they haven’t heard back from anyone yet about how to do that. Soo if there’s any moderators reading this feel free to PM with details on who to contact for new vendor accounts and I’ll pass that along!!!

 

What are these spacers for then ?

 

Pretty sure you got one of the earlier kits that was already packaged with those spacers. Everyone else I don’t think got any spacers.

 

yeah i didnt get spacers.

 

Great! I’m neck deep in this right now and the spacers threw me off !

 

Alright fellas, I need some help. Got the new clutch and bearing put in, transmission mounted back up. Bled the lines multiple times but for some reason i can get the truck in gear, it’s like the bearing runs out of stroke and doesn’t let the clutch release all the way. Any ideas what could be going on here ?

The only weird thing I noticed is that the clutch master cylinder has some play. I’m going to start by replacing that and see what happens since I have a spare

Any suggestions?

 

When does the clutch pedal start having resistive pressure?

 

If it's deep in the throw, then I would contact clutch Masters and see if their earlier throw out bearings needed spacers compared to the later throwout bearings.

*Edit* Stupid talk to text...

 

@406cruiser do you know if this could be the case since you’ve dealt with this bearing design from the start ?

 

Just got my ass handed to me by the clutch master cylinder, got it replaced but it didn’t solve the problem.

Pedal feels good, constant resistive pressure all across the throw, it just feels like it’s coming up short on the stroke, can get the truck in gear

 

I had this issue once with a hydro T/O bearing. Thought I had bled it good, but I didn't. A friends vacuum bleeder fixed it. Are you 1000% sure everything is bled correctly?

 

I am 9999% sure I did, I must have gone thru 5x the lines volume now and get consistent clean fluid back with no bubbles at the bleed line from the bearing . Gonna run to autozone and see if I can get a vacuum bleeder

 

@garciav there was no changes with the kits. Pretty sure the only reason you got spacers was because of the way the kit was originally packaged with spacers. My understanding with the bearings and spacers is they are just something the shipping guys have on their pick list to put in with those kits, but after they determined they weren’t necessary they weren’t sent with the later kits. The actual height of the spacer never changed from what I know since all the rest of the spacers were made off the dimensions we determined using my rig.

You’ve adjusted the rod on the slave cylinder? You can unbolt the metal inspection plate on the side of the transmission and have someone push the clutch in and see what the bearing is doing? You should see about a 1/4” of movement. That’s all it takes to disengage the clutch.

 

Just vacuum bled the system, there were a couple bubbles I missed but it did not change the outcome. I can see inside the bellhousing and the bearing does move in and out about 1/4 inch, you can see the pressure plate flexing

I do have the slave cylinder deleted, I did this as part of the URD hydrobearing kit. Would this make any difference ?

Not sure what to do at this point, really trying to avoid having to drop the trans again...

 

Did everyone else that's installed this kit, remove that component as well, or no?

 

which component? i got rid of the accumulator with the twin disc install a couple of years ago. the slave cylinder, fork and stock throw-out bearing and pivot ball thing all get removed for the clutchmasters bearing. the hydro steel braided lines come out of the bell housing where the slave cylinder used to mount.

 

@wrmathis are u currently running this clutchmasters bearing ?

 

Yes. Have been running it for a week.

 

Sorry I meant the master cylinder!!! Yes the slave cylinder is deleted, that is what originally was bolted to the transmission that actuated the clutch fork.

If you can see the internal slave is moving and the throwout bearing is pushing on the diaphragm and you can see the fingers moving I see no reason why you can't get the truck into gear. Possibly the rod on your master cylinder that connects to the clutch pedal just needs to be adjusted?

 

This is what the bearing looks like with the clutch pedal fully pushed in. Can anyone that’s done this install take a similar picture so I can see if there’s a noticeable difference ?

I talked to clutch masters and they said I may have the adjustment rod too high and it is pushing the bearing out too much, diaphragm fingers could be binding up the clutch disk if this happens. Gonna play around with it when I get back home