2nd gen plug and play remote start

I am a "DRL always on" guy. If convenient, I would love to hear from you on how the DRL acts when ON, and the remote is activated. Thanks. Here is Iowa, it is getting close to a Winter Wonderland, and I park outside. So I need to make up my mind soon. Thanks.

 

id be curious to know. I called and got them yesterday to ask a few questions so I will definitely hold off to see if they make things right with you. I guess if you went with the factory system, then no need in trying theirs again. How much was the factory kit if you don’t mind me asking and does it have its own remotes or use the OEM?

thanks

 

Just tested it for ya. When the stem is left on DRL, the parking lights and DRL turn on with remote start. I then killed it remotely and it successfully turned off all lights. I’ve had no problems with battery drain or lights being weird with this unit so far.

 

Man I love Tacoma World. Thank you very much for this test !! I appreciate your kindness and willingness here.

 

Glad to help man. Alaska is also about to be a winter shitshow and I look forward to my first time in a few years with remote start again. Definitely get one of these kits.

 

U want a pic of the light flashing? Lll

 

Anyone tried plugging an obd 2 device into the pass throu port and not have the remote start work anymore. Then when you remove the device it works again?

 

I have the 12 Volt kit. My head unit uses an ODB2 port to read codes and diagnostic info. Everything works fine for me.

 

The problem I learned is that If I kill it remotely with remote or phone , it shuts off but the long range remote is waiting to be taken over by the key in the ignition, 12 volt informed me if you don't do take over from key ingniiton it keep's searching....That was the problem we troubled shot and my battery has not went dead sense..............I'm glad it worked I was getting tired of a dead battery.....If you google remote start and dead batteries,,,,lots of examples of peoples problems....

 

Interesting. Well last I interacted with my truck was killing it remotely. I’ll see if it needs a jump in the morning.

 

Also my truck was not being driven and sat maybe 2 or 3 days,,,so I would use remote to start and stop or let it time out......I know it's not enough to charge battery, I read you rpm has to be above 1500 rpm to charge.....Might not be a problem for other's but it was for me.......

 

Thanks for the additional info. My '07 had a remote installed when I bought it, so I am now addicted to one and will get something for my '15 soon. What causes you to want to kill the start process remotely? Just curious on that scenario. I had situations where the remote start "timed out" and I had to re-activate the remote start, but never had to kill it. Thanks.

 

Honestly sometimes I’ll get lazy and decide not to go out and do whatever it was I was planning to do. Or if I throw it in pitstop mode for a quick in and out somewhere and realize it’ll take more than the fifteen minute run time.

 

I guess I should have been clearer. By factory system I just mean the original key crank that it came out of factory with. I didn't know Toyota made aftermarket keyless one for 2nd gens that's "factory" per se. I am going to call Accessorides Monday and try to at least send the one extra back. I'm sure I'm out of the window to return the first. I wish it would have worked, though. I definitely don't think it was the battery as some have said. I'm still using same one from then and haven't had any issues thus far. I may randomly plug it back in sometime and see what happens. It's not hard to do other than the one plug for door locks. Not much wiggle room there.

When I discussed it with them originally they stayed on phone with me and walked me through any troubleshooting they knew. Then he finally agreed to send the new one. I say that to say I wouldn't let my experience hold you back from purchasing it. Many others here seem to be pleased. I think the communication dropped off because of Covid lockdown. I can't hold that against them.

 

Makes sense!! I agree that the battery wouldn’t have anything to do with that. I have the immobilizer on mine which I’m sure you do as well. Thank again for the info and I have another month or so before winter hits here so I should have a decision by then

 

Just wondering what voltage numbers others are reading on there phone app. I am getting about 13.3 when truck is running, than after its off about 12.7 and drops over time to abiut 12.3, seems to be hanging good around there. When I was having battery problems droped to 11.9 to 11.3 to dead.

 

A "bad" battery will drop to below 10v when you crank the vehicle. Resting voltages aren't the best indicator of a bad or failing battery. It's why dead cell tests require both input and expected output loads on the battery. Certainly a load capacity or voltage test will tell you whether or not your battery is low or not, but it won't give you a status on the health of it. Your best bet is to use a multimeter and actually test the battery on crank, or take it to an autozone and let them run their meters on it.

As far as charging voltage on the truck, mine can be as low as 13.2 at idle or as high as 14.2 (without the .5+ diode installed), so your charging system sounds fine.

 

Yes battery is new and I had it tested and it passed, my battery before was my original battery about 5 years old..My charging voltage reads are same as you. I know it is not the best indicator, but curios what resting reads you get on phone app and how much do they drop and change.

 

I’ve had mine for about a year and honestly love my 12v kit!

 

Hey guys! Just to clarify with the light questions and this goes for whichever kit you have - ours or another one. The only issue is for customers who choose to leave their lights in the parking light, or full headlight on position. Basically meaning you leave your headlights on all the time. Our system isn't leaving the lights on or anything - it is just working as the factory lights do since you are leaving the switch in the on position.

Whether you have a remote start or not, if you turn your headlight switch on and turn the truck off the lights will never turn off, killing your battery.

If you have a remote start and you leave your headlight switch on and remote start it then either let the runtime time out OR shut it back off from the remote manually, the same applies the lights will never turn off, killing your battery.

The key to the whole process with or without a remote start is to open the door. Whether using a remote start or just sitting in the truck - if you leave your stalk in the on position the lights will never turn off until your battery is dead, unless you open a door.

Our recommendation would be to use the lights as intended and just turn your headlights on when you need them, and off when you don't. Otherwise if you want to leave them on just have to keep in mind if you change your mind about going out you will have to quick run out and open the door and the lights will turn back off. Kind of a tough call for us as most customers turn their lights on when driving and then turn them off when parking so there will never be an issue. Unfortunately reworking our kits with extra parts and connectors for a select few to make them turn off may not make sense on our end, but I will put it on the list and see if we can't make some changes to make it happen!

@cee_gee_ess - If you get a chance give us a call or shoot us an email with your order info. 2010 is the odd year but even then we haven't seen any issues assuming you have the correct kit for the dot key or G key and have an immobilizer. Either way worst case send the kits back and we can get you a refund, regardless of when you purchased it.