2nd gen Tacoma Overhead Compass / Temp Gauge not working

So mine is not working and was curious after watching some youtube videos on people "re floating" the solder on theirs i any of you have tried this?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYaqARpTQmc

 

Yep... lots of folks. Check here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/overhead-compass-temp-fix.18497/

 

Thanks going to attempt the fix today. WISH ME LUCK lol

 

1. FIXED and only took a matter of minutes. The resistor un soldered right off and was loose rattling around the temp/compass display mount. In the first pic you can see the tiny resistor to the right on the towel.

 

For later...

 

They are referring to re-melting the solder (you probably know that). This may or may not work since you are trying to take a minute amount of solder and perfect it. Consider that it was put on by a machine, so you will need more solder probably.

Moving on, I had to fix this up myself. I can't over-emphasize that, if your display is not working, a perfectly good looking board is probably still suffering from poorly attached 510 resistors. Mine looked perfect until I did a slight nudge with my fingernail and one of the resistors almost fell off.

EDIT: I was going to post up pictures to accommodate the OP's broken links, but after reading more posts, it seems like everyone has re-re-re-posted a video or website or service for doing this, so no need for my pictures after all

 

If I had a dollar for how common this is, I would have a new 2016 Tacoma paid for!!! LOL

 

So are you saying their 510-ohm resistors, being chip ones my guess is they are only 1/8 watt each the video was confusing. I have a vast supply of both chip and regular resistors, when I die the junk man will be a happy dude, I'm 83 and was a bench tech Please confirm they are both 510-ohm.

 

I don't feel like diving full on into the listed topic thread above (yes I know.... )

But (prompted by oldguy above) do I remember: was some of the problem a potential overheating of this resistor (too low a wattage by design fault), which then caused the solder to melt a bit and disconnect or damage the resistor? Back in the mid teens a coworker brought this up as his unit had failed, and pointed out this known issue. I fixed his with a same R-value but higher watt piece just to be sure (or possibly two 1K's in parallel to share the load..hey this was a decade ago lol). It may not be just the original assembly process.

So just sayin' if you're going in there and have access to parts, maybe put a higher wattage piece(s) in there.

 

Well, I just fixed 2 for free for the fun of it, yes the resistors marketed 510 are two tied together in parallel they look like only 1/4 watt I would prefer replacing them with a half-watt or one-watt 27 ohm MY METER SHOWS THERE 51 OHMS. I'm looking to fix about 25 for free if you are local, I'm in CT the cold air static will kill them forever if you're NOT CAREFUL once I have it down to a perfect fast way, I will give it to a young friend and teach him how to do it, and bench test it, I need now to build a bench test jig so I'm a 100% sure it's fully working before installing back in the truck lots, of things can go wrong so far every video I saw does a poor job of teaching it, getting a full circuit diagram seems the Chinese have reversed engineered. my repair price, for now, is FREE, with no strings and no scams it's my education I'm getting back, for now shipping no, it is very cold and will only kill it, I have to work with high humidity and have the truck warm and humid with a very fine water mist. I'm looking for the plug and harness to the device from a parted-out truck, to build my repair jig also I'm looking for tech data on it to learn more, it keeps my 83-year-old brain from turning to mush.
Gary

 

Does the 2009 also have a common problem with the same device or did they correct it?

 

Soldered mine on my 2006 twice. After second time I got into habit to only turn the display on for 3 to 5 seconds and turn off immediately. No need to keep the display on continuously. That was 10 years ago and display comes on every time since then. I figure by having then on for such a short time prevents the resistor from reaching a temperature that causes the joint to fatigue.

 

Well, your right but the design sucks, I want to buy a bunch of bad ones and measure how much current they have after I solder them they draw, and also leave them on at about 70 degrees F and after one hour see if the current went up there are 2 caps on that unit that maybe leaky I wish I had a full circuit diagram my guessing the resistors are load resistors to a 12 to 5-volt regulator I saw what looks like some the guy who owned, once I told him I fixed it came over so fast, I did not get a chance to take data. My offer is still up if it's warm weather ship it to me, and throw in $10 for shipping it back VERY CLEARLY PRINT YOUR ADDRESS SO IT CAN NOT GET LOST I WILL DO IT ONCE I GET GOOD my free offer is over, or drive for me if you're near me, I will do it while you wait.
Here is what I would do remove it on a warm day NO STATIC TAKE A DIGITAL TEMP LIKE FOR YOUR FOREHEAD AIM IT AT THE RESISTORS SINCE THEY LAY FLAT ON THE BOARD NO AIR GET UNDER THEM LET ME KNOW HOW HOT THEY GET OVER OUTSIDE TEMP, I DON'T KNOW what type of iron your using or solder but that could be part of the issue I do know BOTH ARE TIED TOGETHER SO IF GOOD IT SHOULD READ LIKE 25 OHMS MAYBE YOU ONLY FIXED ONE, It's my reason I need more to learn about them trust me at 83 I'm not planning on a new business just having fun, plus this site has been very kind to me, and I owe it back you guys you can always try my CT time in the afternoon time if I'm not talking to medical person 203 232 8888 or some damn spammer is not calling me I get so many its only a flip phone don't text it I can't see it.
Gary