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2nd Gen Tacoma Slip Yoke Grease Fitting

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas' started by goufcustom, Feb 15, 2013.

  1. Feb 15, 2013 at 7:12 AM
    #1
    goufcustom

    goufcustom [OP] 7.62x63mm

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    I am rebuilding my drive shaft on my TRD Off Road 4x4, replacing the U-Joints and Center Support Bearing, and while it is apart I figured adding a grease fitting to the slip yoke would make things better and get rid of the axel wrap thud. I have been pulling my drive shaft apart and adding grease every 10k miles and it is a pain, so the grease fitting will make this much easier. I couldnt find any pictures, but I know there are a few folks that have done it here. I was going to do it myself since it is really easy, but I didnt have the proper drill bits, tap or grease fitting, and I just haven't had the time to do it. So I took it to a local shop and they charged me $50 to do it, got it back in 24 hrs and I am pleased with the results so far.

    This is what it looks like, the shop checked the clearance with the old U-Joint and said there were no clearance issues, I will post some more pictures as I put it back together today.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Some more pictures:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Fully Assembled

    - There are no issues with clearance, and a standard grease gun tip fits in there for east greasing.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Feb 15, 2013 at 7:12 AM
    #2
    goufcustom

    goufcustom [OP] 7.62x63mm

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    Bed Topper, Diff Breather, aFe Cold Air Intake, Satoshi Grill, Moved Horns, Oil Catch Can, Tailgate Lock, Husky Mud Flaps, H4 65/70W Bulbs, Lower Grill Mesh, TRD Skid Plate, LEDs in the bed, LEDs behind the grill for accent lighting, Parking lights as turn signals, LED turn signals and reverse lights, 5100s up front, eibachs up front, SS extended brake lines all around, 1.5" AAL in the rear, Relentless Fab U-Bolt Flip Kit, ICON Progressive AAL, TRD Wheel Center Caps, HomeLink, Heated Driver Seat, Hella 500 FF Driving Lights, BAMF Diff Skid, BAMF LCA Skids, BAMF Rock Sliders w/ KickOut.
    Grease Fitting on the inside -
    [​IMG]

    NOTES:
    Mark everything, so you can put it back together exactly int he same orientation that it came apart in, this is IMPORTANT!

    Also, I torqued the nut on the center support bearing to 135 ft-lbs and then backed it off and took it to 55 ft-lbs and then staked the nut. I used the nut to "press" the bushing on, and packed the bearing before assembly.

    Also, to get the ears that go to the U-Joint off, you need a 2-jaw gear puller, it comes off very easy with that. Then having a 2 or 3 jaw gear puller to get the old bearing off. I didnt take pictures of this because it was dark, and using a gear puller is pretty easy. I also used a vise with some blocks of wood to hold the drive shaft on the end ears instead of the hollow shaft, and used an impact to get the nut off.

    It doesnt make a difference to the functioning of the drive shaft, but I chose to mark everything on the side that had the factory grease fitting, which were all on the same side, so you can grease them all if you can reach one of them. Unlike the front drive shaft you cant spin the read when in N. I used some red touch up paint from my red Miata to make the marks, black marker was too hard to see.


    Other pictures:

    [​IMG]

    Center Support Bearing (Carrier Bearing) Removed -
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The new Bearing - went with the Dorman, interested to see how long it lasts compared to the factory one, it cost $45, so I am taking the risk when compared to the $200 factory one.
    [​IMG]

    I bought new washers and nut for re-assembly, you dont need them, but my local Toyota dealership sold the 2 washers and 1 nut for ~$5

    This shows the order for re-assembly with the washers.
    [​IMG]

    Clean everything, and apply more grease to the spline an bearing.
    [​IMG]

    I marked the direction on the bearing, the Dorman comes un marked, and direction is key on this part.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This thin washer sits inside the bearing, on the side that the nut it on, see the picture above for the order, it wont go together wrong without breaking something.
    [​IMG]

    Watch out for burs that are created when you take the old U-Joints out. Use a file to get rid of this. And grease the holes before re-assembly, makes it easier and prevents it from seizing.
    [​IMG]
    COMPLETE -
    [​IMG]
     
  3. Feb 15, 2013 at 7:15 AM
    #3
    Chris24

    Chris24 Well-Known Member

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    :popcorn: thats prettty sweet
     
  4. Feb 15, 2013 at 7:19 AM
    #4
    P9HST2

    P9HST2 Well-Known Member

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    Very nice!
     
  5. Feb 15, 2013 at 7:23 AM
    #5
    skygear

    skygear           

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    Looks nice. I'm more of an electrical guy, not mechanical. But I'm learning daily!
     
  6. Feb 15, 2013 at 10:44 AM
    #6
    DGXR

    DGXR Well-Known Member

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    Awesome! Can I have it?
     
  7. Feb 16, 2013 at 2:54 PM
    #7
    goufcustom

    goufcustom [OP] 7.62x63mm

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    Bed Topper, Diff Breather, aFe Cold Air Intake, Satoshi Grill, Moved Horns, Oil Catch Can, Tailgate Lock, Husky Mud Flaps, H4 65/70W Bulbs, Lower Grill Mesh, TRD Skid Plate, LEDs in the bed, LEDs behind the grill for accent lighting, Parking lights as turn signals, LED turn signals and reverse lights, 5100s up front, eibachs up front, SS extended brake lines all around, 1.5" AAL in the rear, Relentless Fab U-Bolt Flip Kit, ICON Progressive AAL, TRD Wheel Center Caps, HomeLink, Heated Driver Seat, Hella 500 FF Driving Lights, BAMF Diff Skid, BAMF LCA Skids, BAMF Rock Sliders w/ KickOut.
    LOL, NO, but you can do it yourself, getting the drive shaft apart was easy, and I really should have just done it myself...
     
  8. Feb 16, 2013 at 7:05 PM
    #8
    650H1

    650H1 Well-Known Member

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    thats fucking sweet. i posted up a thread a while ago about wanting to do this, i have no drilling or tapping skills so i would def take it somewhere to have it done. does wonder if it will let grease get into where it needs to be...
     
  9. Feb 17, 2013 at 6:15 AM
    #9
    goufcustom

    goufcustom [OP] 7.62x63mm

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    Bed Topper, Diff Breather, aFe Cold Air Intake, Satoshi Grill, Moved Horns, Oil Catch Can, Tailgate Lock, Husky Mud Flaps, H4 65/70W Bulbs, Lower Grill Mesh, TRD Skid Plate, LEDs in the bed, LEDs behind the grill for accent lighting, Parking lights as turn signals, LED turn signals and reverse lights, 5100s up front, eibachs up front, SS extended brake lines all around, 1.5" AAL in the rear, Relentless Fab U-Bolt Flip Kit, ICON Progressive AAL, TRD Wheel Center Caps, HomeLink, Heated Driver Seat, Hella 500 FF Driving Lights, BAMF Diff Skid, BAMF LCA Skids, BAMF Rock Sliders w/ KickOut.
    I was greasing it for the the first time, and could hear all the air being forced out of the slip yoke, I think this is the best option and gets the grease exactly where you want it. Plus it is really just copying what the 1st Gens and lots of other trucks already have...
     
  10. Feb 17, 2013 at 8:56 AM
    #10
    Failure2Comply

    Failure2Comply Well-Known Member

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    Great write-up, thanks.
     
  11. Feb 17, 2013 at 9:09 AM
    #11
    MonkeyProof

    MonkeyProof Power Top

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    Super sweet write up :thumbsup:

    Where did you get the ujoints and what part number are they?
     
  12. Feb 17, 2013 at 9:19 AM
    #12
    CrAiG

    CrAiG Well-Known Member

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    Very great write up, and thanks for taking the time to do one!!
    i need to do this for sure!!!
     
  13. Feb 17, 2013 at 9:45 AM
    #13
    fixnfly

    fixnfly Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for posting this! Looking forward till better weather to do this myself.
    My Chilton manual shows this same grease fitting But I don't have one. Are these only on certain models or is the Chilton wrong yet again?
     
  14. Feb 18, 2013 at 7:46 PM
    #14
    goufcustom

    goufcustom [OP] 7.62x63mm

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    I used Moog 270s, their "Super Strength" version, but they come with a "flush" grease fitting that I cant figure out how to grease... :mad:




    No 2nd Gen Tacoma comes with a slip yoke grease fitting if that is what you are asking. And only some (I think 4x4s) come with the U-Joint grease fittings, but I may be wrong.
     
  15. Feb 18, 2013 at 8:12 PM
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    MonkeyProof

    MonkeyProof Power Top

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    Hmm..can you post a picture of the grease fitting when have a chance?
     
  16. Feb 18, 2013 at 8:28 PM
    #16
    tacomataco2

    tacomataco2 Well-Known Member

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    ^ you need a needle tip for the grease gun! I replaced it with a regular one
     
  17. Feb 18, 2013 at 8:33 PM
    #17
    Bullfrog

    Bullfrog "I think I know more than I do."

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    My first gen already has this? Do second gens not?
     
  18. Feb 19, 2013 at 5:07 AM
    #18
    goufcustom

    goufcustom [OP] 7.62x63mm

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    I was about to last night, and I dropped my phone in my dogs bowl of water, now it may never work again... :mad:

    My friend has one and it bringing it to me this week to try. I will likely just replace them with standard fittings if the needle doesnt work.
     
  19. Feb 19, 2013 at 6:42 AM
    #19
    MonkeyProof

    MonkeyProof Power Top

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    Reminds me of when my gf was chasing me while trying to spray me with the hose..j dropped my phone and the screen spider webbed :mad:
     
  20. Feb 20, 2013 at 4:19 PM
    #20
    goufcustom

    goufcustom [OP] 7.62x63mm

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    I used MOOG 270s, check Moogs site for more info.

    So I bought a needle grease fitting and gave it a try...

    I bent it within 30 seconds (in two places), and got no grease inside the u-joint. :mad:

    I really hate these flush fittings, and I cant find a 10-32 grease fitting with a check ball in it. I did find a 10-32 grease fitting without a check valve on McMaster, but nothing local.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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