2nd Gen Wiring Overhaul - A slow descent into madness

3/8" diameter works for all of the connections. But if someone wants to use the smallest hole here's my measurements on the factory sizes (These are the truck sizes, not battery connection sizes):
Alternator Stud: M6 (1/4")
Starter Stud: M8 (5/16")
Starter Ground: M8 (5/16")
Fuse Box hidden bolt: M6 (1/4")
Battery ground on fender: M6 (1/4")

 

Nice catch! That was a typo. I'm not clinically dyslexic but sometimes things don't get onto the page in the same order they came out of my brain. I'll go back and fix it.

 

That's great to hear! Originally when I looked at the pic seen below it looked like you had to cut the fuse box plastic a little to fit the lugs in there but now that I take a second look perhaps that isn't the case and it's just a rough edge on the plastic I was seeing.

 

Correct, there is NO trimming of the fusebox necessary. I think I see what you're seeing, and it's almost surely just cruft.

Edit: Yeah if you look here you can see that the whole thing buttons back up as factory, I think what you were seeing is one of the places where those little sliding covers was not in place:

 

Hello friends,

Just a note on something that came to my attention recently. The crimp direction on the fusebox feed matters! I'm talking about the lug on the 4AWG wire that runs from the battery to the fusebox:



Why does it matter? Because of the way it feeds into the fusebox:



You want that end to be as flat as possible. If the crimp is done in the wrong direction, it can cause an extremely tight fit when feeding there. You COULD cut a little bit of plastic on the fusebox, but it's much cleaner and better to just do the crimps the right way the first time.

 

Working on winch install. Warn Evo 10-s.

Winch is in the ARB bumper, unwired. Working on mounting the controller.

Aluminum diamond plate:


Controller mounted:



Plenty of clearance over the xmission cooler:


Edge trim on the fender opening where wiring will eventually run:


All buttoned up:


The plan is to make and run 4AWG from the controller to the winch, and 00 from the battery to the controller (hot) and the winch ground.

The winch is rated at 358A max, which is close enough to 350A that I'm going to put an Anderson SB350 on the 00 runs right next to the battery so I can disconnect the hot leads when I'm not wheeling or pulling some yahoo out of a ditch.

 

I liked that location less and less the more I thought about it.

I pulled the ammo can I had on the passenger fender, since all I really used it for was to keep oil change supplies:


Cleaned up with wire brush/primer/gloss enamel:


New bracket:



This will let me run 1/0 through the passenger fender opening to the winch, and 2/0 under the rad shroud over to the battery for the solenoid hot and the winch ground. I confirmed with Warn that the factory wiring is 2 AWG, but I'd rather go bigger.

I'll also be doing the cowl intake relocation this winter.

 

1/0 runs installed from controller to winch. Waiting on 2/0 to show up for the battery leads.

The jacket is more for peace of mind vs. abrasion than anything, and I had it laying around:


Snakes thru the passenger headlight opening (note edge trim on the sheet metal edge):


Connections at the winch studs:


I have some kydex on order to make a cover for the solenoid (factory cover won't fit with the upsized wire) and I'm looking for some plastic sleeving or even a stack of plastic nuts to put on the winch studs, since the tiny boots that came with the factory wiring don't fit.

 

SB350 quick disco for the 2/0 runs:


Still need to make a cover and an extension for the remote socket:


But it's in and it works!

 

Have you considered running some cable to the bumper and using an SB350 for jumper cables?

Also, how do you like those horns?

 

I like the horns, they're proper Hellas. Loud and annoying, what more could one want. I set the alarm off with the keyfob in my back pocket while I had my face right next to the grille and I about shit my pants. The factory horns worked fine until my dumb ass broke the wire for one of them off right at the connector. It was a thin wire and pretty brittle after 10+ years of hot/cold/hot/cold.

I do think I'd like to convert my jumper cables to an SB350 on one end - it makes sense what with having the thing there. I need to get some sleeves though so the thinner (< 2/0) jumper cable conductors will crimp properly in the SB350 tangs.

 

CHP does this on their patrol fleet, and many other state of CA and some of the fed's trucks had them as well, best solution ever, and if you're configured for a rear winch as well, you can jump from either end.

Add in a little light and you've got a polarity indicator before you connect to your truck.

 

how do you open the fuse box?

 

The cover? Or do you mean gutting it to get to the feed?

 

Gutting it to get to the feed.

 

Post 17 in this thread, linky.

 

Finally got around to it a few weeks ago and finally got around to posting about it today.

Replaced my starter as well while I was at it. Was the original and on its last leg I feel.

I was able to tetris it out with lit removing the headers but gave up trying to shove it back in the same way it came out and had to remove the headers to replace the starter on the 1GR.

Actually ended up installing and uninstalling a few times to get the lengths right before "looming" the wires with rolls (plural) of electrical tape, reused some of the plastic protective sleeves where I felt it appropriate and put some reflective fiberglass blanket sections from a different OEM harness where the wires get closest to the exhaust near the starter.

Ultimately though it was apparently my battery having some strange intermittent weak cell that was the root of my issues so got a new (bigger too) battery this last weekend.

I worked slowly and carefully to not miss or forget anything or land anything in the wrong spot as these wired aren't fused. I also took the time to be extra and reuse one of the factory starter wires as a ground wire from the block to the shock tower. Even if the thread says it's unnecessary I felt like if Toyota took the time to put it there then one should still be there.

Still considering adding a strap to go from the body to the frame directly.

Chose to keep my SDHQ terminals over those provided in the kit.



Removing the tire and skid plates is almost mandatory, certainly makes it easier to work on and feed the wires around, jacking it up higher helps too especially with the starter and header removal.




Just one of those is as big as the old loomed wires combined.


Old one's seals were gone. Sounded like it was full of sand. (Because it was.)



After test fitting installs and some wire training I finalized the loom withe copious tape and zip ties adding protective sheathing where I deemed appropriate.



This was a freaking pain which lead to later issues...


Reflective fire blanket covers.




Used a stainless P clamp with rubber liner bolted to the factory wire plastic keep bracket, works perf you can just see it below the oil filter.


Trouble:



Which totally blew as my test drive was just fine not a single hiccup but it decided to have a conniption and die in traffic on my way into work, missed that shift.

Apparently this add a fuse (for the fog lights any time mod which comes off the EFI location) and a few other were a little loose either from pulling up the fuse box guts and shoving it all back down or from fighting the box cover back on but either way pulled and reseated every fuse and haven't had any issues since.



New 27F battery to replace the 24F that was having intermittent issues.



Truck barely makes a *chu-wur* noise and it's already running, may be in my head but it feels smoother and stereo sounds better since all this.

 

That's a real clean install, thanks for sharing. Using that P-clamp and the aluminized fabric is genius.

 

I did some surgery to the winch solenoid cover:


Cut to clear the cables and eliminate the port for the controller cable. Heat formed and pop riveted some kydex. Put a hole in the other side and hot glued the controller socket - it should hold but if it doesn't I'll fix it later.

I'm going to sacrifice the controller cable to run in-cab controls - it's already run against the top of the firewall along a factory wire bundle. I have all the parts to make the control panel, that's my next project. For now I can use the remote wirelessly.

Does anyone know what this black plug is on the passenger side, right above that big seal? Can I pull that out and run the cable through it?

 

I did on the driver side. Use a large plastic zip tie and send it. Make sure to use a plastic grommet to prevent future archy archy boom boom.