2nd Gen Wiring Overhaul - A slow descent into madness

@deanosaurus Yes that's exactly what I thought that the lengths would need to be different. Thank you for confirming. Once I start the project, I'll post lengths and maybe a few pictures.

 

@deanosaurus got some measurements for the 2.7l. Did a dry run and all the cables will fit and installation will begin once my new terminals arrive.

1. Starting at the top is the Battery Body Ground. I used 12", 0 AWG wire. I changed to this after some further tweaking of the set up.(Not using the 6" cable in the picture below)
2. After some other research, I decided to add a 0 AWG alternator ground to the body. I have an engine to body ground that I updated (not pictured) that this ground will mount with.
3. The battery positive to fuse ended up being the same length as yours. Also used 4 AWG wire as you did.
4. Since the alternator is on the opposite side of the engine compared to the V6, had to measure this a few times. 48" gives plenty of length to snake around and mount to the fuse stud. Again, 0 AWG.
5. Starter positive, same as yours, 36" 0 AWG.
6. Starter ground, same as yours, 48" 0 AWG.
7. Shock Tower ground, 27" 0 AWG

All cables came from https://www.batterycablesusa.com/. These are very nice and high quality. They came crimped with connectors. Definitely recommend checking them out.




So the Big 3 turned into a Big 7, plus the new engine to body ground as well.

I hope this helps.

 

I'm going to link this post in the first post and update the title. Thanks for the update!

 

@deanosaurus sure thing! Thank you too

 

Did the thing today. Got the "Big 3" completed. Overall, not too bad. The most time consuming part was getting the OEM alternator power cable out. Since I have the 4 cyl, it's on the left side of the engine.

I decided to replace the "shock tower" ground as well. Since I didn't mention that in my first post, I got a 24" 0 AWG cable to replace the OEM, I edited that post with the addition of that ground cable.

Some pictures:

Seeing how things lay out with the Headlight Services harness.


KnuKonceptz Bassik Terminals:
Decided to change to these terminals. Having three set screw mounts works better for my set up. They also come with nice, protective covers.


Battery tray rust repair:
Before. Gross.

After some sanding, wire brushing, washing, priming, painting, and clear coating. Not too bad.


Finished product:



I went for a drive after the install, and I noticed a few positive things.
1. Stronger, faster start.
2. Improved fan speed, particularly at setting 4.
3. Faster windows up and down.


I hope this can help other 4 cyl owners!

 

Finally got these free-via-warranty DD pods mounted and wired. I went to take apart my fogs for the gold paint and a couple screws stripped. I emailed to get a part number for the lens gasket, intending to drill them out, but DD sent me a new set no questions asked. Picked up some combo lenses, since the Fogs still work just fine.





Heat shrink on the pod end of the loom, electrical tape around the plugs, 3M mastic over top of the E-tape and shrink tube. Run down into the bumper and through the same opening as the winch wiring, up to the aux relay panel. Control relay wired into one of the illuminated switches on the aircraft panel in the dash.

They do protrude above the hood line slightly, but don't really obstruct any line of sight but they are taking a bit to get used to, visually. I used some one-way screws for the sides and loctite on double nuts to hold the pedestal to the bumper.

I have some more updates in the coming weeks.

 

I have used the AC outlet in the bed exactly once, and have decided to ditch it in favor of some additional DC power in the cab, under the rear cargo deck.

I acquired a black center console (as I am slowly updating the interior) and have modified it with a couple of DC outlets for various devices that live under the cargo deck (jump pack, battery banks, flashlight) and would benefit from the ability to keep them plugged in.





I cut out the vents in the rear of the console (meant to ventilate the inverter, which lives under the floor of the center console and is otherwise fully enclosed) and whipped up a little panel with crap from the scrap bin - some heat form plastic and some small nuts and bolts.

The plan is to re-use the fused DC supply that currently feeds the inverter, and replace the factory 400/1000 inverter switch with a simple on/off to toggle the new DC outlets.

 

USB panel and fusebox inside the console:





Closeup - I modified the console so these fuses would be accessible (albeit with tools) from inside the console. That tab of thermoplastic is because there was a small opening in the clear polycarbonate cover and I didn't like my odds of dropping a paperclip or some damn thing down in there and onto the hot lug. The clear cover will go on and off and lock nicely as long as that far left fuse isn't populated. I do not have any concerns about exposed hot connections or this cover accidentally coming off under any circumstances - it requires a very specific angle/pressure to come out.



The teeny gap at the bottom where the circuits exit will be covered by the factory console liner or a new liner if I get around to it. You can see I was short one 7.5A fuse for the inside combo USB outlets. The factory inverter draws ~400W, so ~33A@12V. The 12V socket is rated for 15A max, and the USB combo devices are 48W max output each.

Here's the inside/bottom. Decently clean wire routing. 16AWG copper for the combo outlets, 12AWG copper for the 12V socket. Bigass SB50 (8AWG copper) that will mate to one to be spliced to the factory inverter feed wiring:

 

Throwing this here. I needed a similar solution to you and this is what I came up with. False bottom floor fuse panel. Has terminals for constant hot and relay triggered.

 

That's really nicely done.