2nd gens on 37" tires

Oh I'm just busting your ass.

 

I'm wondering if this can be done without the long travel front suspension...

 

Yes, Lurry was on stock length.

 

I'll rephrase the question:

I'm wondering if this can be done without the long travel front suspension on a truck that's not a trail rasin...

 

I'm pretty sure it can be done with some more cutting there was a member here I thought that had 37's without LT I'll try and find it

 

Why have 37s...and not trail raisin it?

 

I still try to keep the shiny side somewhat shiny.

I'm not opposed to hitting the hard trails and taking difficult lines but I'm also not out to destroy the thing.

Truck is looking epic BTW spoon! Love the bobbed bed.

 

Thanks man. I like to attack whatever trails are possible, and if I get dents I get dents. Haha

 

When I get the tire on the rim tomorrow ill get some pics. I'm not LT

1" body lift helps a lot. My firewall is pretty beaten back but will need some more

 

Jeeezus, 37"'s on a Tacoma ?? Thats got to be hell on front end suspension components, I had 38.5"'s on full size '72 Power wagon solid axle & it took its toll on tie rod ends & rear Ujoints (manual trans)..

 

I am still on my stock steering rack and have only replaced the tie rods once in 100K miles. Not that they needed it, but I changed them anyway. I would venture that the Tacoma front end is considerably stronger than the Dana 44 in that 72 power wagon. The rear end on the other hand...well it does need some upgradin' if you are hard on stuff, but will last a lot longer than you would think with a third member put together with decent components by someone who knows what they are doing.

 

Can't really comment on which is stronger , plus no huge fan of IFS, biggest issue was having a manual trans & without the smooth transition of power-to-wheels of an automatic , kinda ate thru rear U joints

Guess it depends whats considered an issue, mine were Cepek 38.5"x14.50"x 16.5"'s ,monster mudders thats a pretty wide footprint before any airing down but hey if its working for ya , have at it...

 

I would bet my paycheck that it ate rear U joints due to improper set up and axle wrap. It took me several builds to figure this one out. I had an '85 K5 blazer with a 475hp 383 stroker in it that ate U joints for breakfast. I ended up selling it after having so many issues. I strongly believe it was soft springs, the wrong shackles and bad pinion angle. http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/index2.html

 

Haha, you can sign your check over anytime, I'm responsible for all susp. MODS made to it, it was bone stock, I shimmed the axle to almost neutral -/+

pinion angle, even had John from El Cajon Frame & axle crunch some dimension numbers on it & he came up with same (which I'm sure John at el cajon frame & axle means nothing unless you're around my age & knew him, probably dead now) def. no axle wrap & I was young then & a little heavy on the skinny pedal at times, I switched to a 727 torqueflite auto when did a motor swap (same size 360 w/4 barrel not built) & had to change rear Ujoint 1 time in the remaining 4 years I owned it after going to an automatic, it was just easier on drive train

 

Well, I'm sure you two knew what you were doing of course, just read the link and you might learn some more. I'll downgrade the paycheck to a beer, payable any time just knock on the door.

 

Right now beer works better than $$$$ for me anyway...

 

So they fit, rub pretty bad close to full lock. Need to hack the firewall back.

This was with 4.25 bs rims and 1.25 spacers still on. The tire clears the UCA and frame. I'd like to run H1 Beadlocks, those are 3.5 bs so will be close.

I'm also going to try it with spacers off when get time.










Tried some flex



Not bad, close to full compression

 

I am looking at buying some new tires soon and think I might skip 35s

 

My 3.5" bs bead locks will be in Wednesday.

 

That's a really heavy wheel