2nd gens on 37" tires

Cut off a little of the pinch weld and beat the rest of it flat. I cut off some of the flares, fenders, and inner fender wells. Cab mount is in stock location and is missing most of itself. Plus some other stuff. I didn't cut out any of the cab corners. It never rubs anywhere including at the battery mount. 37/12.50R17

 

Here we go again… cool story…

 

If i remember correctly, your not on a standard 4wd 3 inch lift. Your either lift spindles or drop bracket.

 

I remember when this thread was about actually clearing 37s. Now it's just another "I didn't need a cmc for 33's" thread

 

yea, I'm guilty... got a little sidetracked with the "where to put the 37" spare"

 

Well I didn't


But I'm rubbing my shock resi for some reason and that's disappointing

 

where did you put it?

 

For now in the garage. I'll take it when I go wheeling.

 

Thanks man, appreciate it!
I cut them off both at the pivots and right next to the solid block that holds the ball joint. Shifted all three joints (two at the pivots, one at the ball joint block) 1/4", beveled, welded 100% penetration, and added reinforcement plates. Guess I should have taken more pictures of the process.
Did it for three reasons: 1. Needed caster and clearance at the firewall. UCAs would help caster but hurt clearance. 2. I'm cheap and this is a temporary solution until I decide to finish the truck completely (probably RCLT or similar) 3. I was bored and needed a project. Working out really well so far.

 

What? Lol

Nothing is standard bolt on and go on mine which is how I like it.

It almost sounds like you think my truck has 33's on it. If that's the case, it's not my problem you can't think outside of the box and/or read and figure it out.

 

Anyone need to rework their slider mount in order to do the cab mount relocation? My weld on looks like it’s right where I need to put the CMR bracket.

 

All I'm saying is there have been a handful of trucks in here lately that have "cleared" 37s, that I can guarantee have not.

If you can't take your front coils out and drive around sitting on the bump stops, then the tires are not fully cleared.

 

Is that how you test for clearance?

as far as engine bay mods I’ve seen people have to move the battery mount and abs brake lines. Is that all necessary and is there anything else that may need to be moved or cleared?

 

Here's what I had to do. Most people would need to do similar to be able to wheel their truck without rubbing on 37s.

Batteries relocated, washer fluid tank moved/modified, all wiring moved, intake relocated, firewall tubbed, fenders cut out quite a lot.






Here's where I'm currently at now that I'm putting in a new frame, LS swap, and 40s

 

I was going to ask how much more firewall you had to cut for the 40’s then I see you are just moving the entire cab instead.

If I was cut much more of mine I start running into dash/heater brackets. An entire cab relocate (ECR vs CMR) is out of the range of projects I want to tackle.

 

I'm just moving the cab to make things easier because I'm swapping the frame anyway, there are a couple people running 40s without moving the cab. You do need to tub back to the door hinge though. Currently I could probably just sneak 42s, and if I tubbed the firewall to the door hinge, could go a bit bigger than that even. But that's all ridiculous, and I think 40s are a stupid idea on stock spindles/wheel bearings. Not gunna stop me though.

 

Once my 38’s wear out I’m debating on running them again or jumping up to 39’s. I think I’m ~3/4 from the hinge but it’s the upper part I can’t get more out of. Once I redo my bypass mount and bumps I’ll have even more uptravel and doubt I could tub enough to clear them.

 

Right on, thanks for clarifying. That seems like cost effective solution. Glad to know that worked for ya. Probably going to jump on the JD fab pivot kit here soon. Waiting for the 37s to arrive before I figure out what’s needs to be done.
I am thinking the JD fab pivot kit and the JD fab inner fender kit will be a good all around solution, + cab relo.

 

Yeah I have a set of 6 new 39s that were offered to me for a good price from another guy that I'm thinking of grabbing. I don't think the difference between a 40 and 39 will make any practical difference other than bragging rights

 

Everyone on hear has a ton more experience than I ever will. But I do clear 37's. Except for one thing. My tires touch the upper control arm at full lock going backwards.
This was how I did it.
I'm not trying to convince anyone just a fyi thing.
Tires are micky Thompson's Baja at. So realistically there clearing a 36.5. or 36. I don't know. Anyway not disputing anyone on heat just telling what I did.
2 " body lift and see pics below.