2nd time burnt exhaust valve

FWIW
The factory builds used 65 shim sizes in .01mm graduations. Service replacements come in 17 sizes with .05mm graduations.

Many folks have a time getting the knack of the "pliers" type tool. Much more so on the 4 than the 6. I have never had any probs, but have only done 6's.
Unless one works on other folks engines, this service is likely a one time per engine sort of thing, making a "pass around" kit that more attractive.

All the special and not so special tools I use. The air blow gun will pop up a shim seemingly held immobile by oily suction. Direct it into the bucket "notch". The rare earth magnet on a stick at an angle is also handy, as is the "pig tail" pic.

 

Thanks for that info. I was wondering about that because it seems like all the used ones I have (about 10 from 2 engines now) were not an even 0.05mm, but the new ones I got were all very close to the exact size, like measured 3.002 on my micrometer for 3.00 shim. I seemed to need bigger shims because the gap got larger on the 2RZ and 7A-FE, so my used ones are on the smaller size 2.85-2.90mm.

You can usually shuffle some around to get all valves close to the middle of spec, so you may only need 4-6 new size shims out of the 16.

 

Yep, the 5vz seems to be an almost different animal when it comes to valve wear and shimming. All the 6's I have done with mileage in the 175K-200K range had 1-3 exhaust's "just" on the tight side. It sure would be a more satisfying job if things were tighter, as with other things in life.

 

Price of the tool to hold the bucket down isn't bad. https://www.toolsource.com/toyota-l...html?tsqtid=&zenid=gicngkvqie6uq92ate85gelm61

 

Dirty, I understand you're well experienced with this stuff. In your opinion, how much would it help to have those pliers and that pry thingy deal? Did having these tools allow you to set all of your valves without removing the cams?

 

Yes on the V6 but as stated, folks have a much tougher time with the 4, I have never so much as seen a 4cyl.
I initially bought the tools cause that's what the good book called for. In hindsight making the pry bar type tool from an old screwdriver would be just fine. Once you see first hand what has to happen and understand how stiff a valve spring is, 2 suitable old screw drivers (one to pry, one to hold), a propane torch (heat and bend) and a grinder/file would get you in business in no time. It would really be no big deal to dive into this job expecting to make up the tools as you go.

 

Oh, well not worth making one if they're that cheap. I'm going to look at WallyWorld or Lowes for a container to get started
at least 20 or so 1"+ compartments and a long tray at bottom
can anyone tell me how long the tool is?

 

in the video it looked no longer then 6 inches

 

Just have to make it nice and smooth

 

That's the tool i bought also, it would work on 1/2 or 2/3rds of the shims but not all of them, especially #4 exh. (4 cyl.). The problem was room and also like I said the cam has rough casting between lobes and it was thicker in some places so It wouldn't pivot down to compress the bucket.... I quit using the pliers after I made my screwdriver/wedge,, it works so much easier, i just lubricate it and shove it in between the lobe and bucket, set the "sheeps foot" as I call it on the edge of the bucket. Pull the wedge out and pop the shim out.

Also the tool that looks like a "sheeps foot" for holding the edge of the bucket, on some of the buckets the sucker was about .005 to .010" short of holding down the bucket far enough to slip the shim out. So i had to make another one to a few thousandths longer to do this job. I made if from a little wider hack saw blade for hardness isssues. Worked great, so I could swap out between the one that came with the "pliers" when needed for more length. You or whoever might not need the extra length on your "sheeps foot", I did though.

See if I can post these pics I took of the tools. Here's mine,, the wedge or screwdriver looking thing on top left is what i was talking about that i reshaped from a Kawasaki valve tool, i also put the round handle on it for easier pushing into the cam and bucket. I bought the tool off ebay i think for about $5, if I remember right.
Down below on the bottom of the photo is the extra long "sheeps foot" as I call it to hold the edge of the bucket down. The store bought one there worked on almost all the buckets but was a few thousandths short on some when I tried to pull the shim. Their old hack saw blades, super hard.



Here's the wedge compared to one that hasn't been re-formed, I bought two just to have it,,, the original has the round ball on the end that I didn't like so I made mine out of dowel rod to have the "flat" to push against,,, all i did to the tool was take some of the bend out of it and put a fine taper to the wedge and put the dowel on.

 

Thanks all of you for the detailed info. So did you end up having to remove your cams to get all of the valves done?

 

No, did them in place. It's really not that bad with the wedge tool and the right sheeps foot for holding down the bucket, and get you a pick like "dirty pool" shows in his picture, I forgot about that part of using the pick. I picked up an assorted package of picks at harbor freight.

 

Awesome! Thanks for answering that and for taking the time to type out your experience here. It'll be very helpful for those looking to adjust their valves themselves(including myself, really didn't want to pull the cams to do it out of laziness).

 

Pulling the exhaust cam (on the 4 cylinder engines) really shouldn't take much time, like 10 bearing cap bolts. Even easier if you don't have a distributor. The intake cam is harder because you need to remove the timing gear. Of course if the tools work well, then that would be easiest.

 

Yeah, I've adjusted valves before on old cruisers. Was happy to hear confirmation that with the tools it's easily done without pulling the cams. It's cold outside

 

Does the larger sheepsfoot work on ALL the valves or just the one that the store bought one wouldn't get?
I have a piece of hard, 3/32" German steel I can make one from if that's what's really needed.

 

So I have a misfire in 1. Mechanic said bad exhaust valve in 1 allowing compression into exhaust. Could this be caused by the valve being too tight and worth a peek before rebuilding? The other cylinders have 150. Does this really mean the bottom will be ok? Thanks for any advice. I love my tacoma and want to try and save it. But I don’t want to be in it huge money either. I’m not a diy’er. Wish I was though.

 

Not a DIY'r ? Never too late to start.
Just get some basic tools, and starting DOING. Best way to learn.

Its fairly easy to check the valves clearances, with basic tools.
If the clearances are all OK, especially the exhaust valves, then there is
no need to pay for an EXPENSIVE adjustment at a shop.

Here is a video to give you and idea on what is involved:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9QJ_zVlznA

You'll need:
- a set of screwdrivers
- a METRIC (not SAE) socket set with ratchet and extension
- a 19mm (or 3/4") socket to rotate the engine properly
- a feeler gauge