2RZ died and won't restart.

Ok. I have a 99 5-lug with the 2.4L. 350k miles. Pulling away from a traffic light the engine just stopped running. Tried to recrank and it just turned over. Stuck it in first (I was still rolling) and popped the clutch. It just barked the rear tires. It was running great until it wasn't.

I've checked all fuses and they're good. I did replace the PCV valve and painted the valve cover. The only thing that that is suspect at this point is the MAF wiring harness fell against the header and melted just enough insulation that 2 wires might have shorted out across the header.

Can you short out a MAF? Would a fuel pump shit the bed suddenly?

 

Yes, and Yes.

First thing to check. Does the Tach move when you crank it?

 

No.

 

I suspect crank sensor or wiring issue.

The engine will die and the fuel pump will not run without a crank signal.

Easy first step would be check the crank sensor.
I like to use a scan tool, and watch engine RPM while cranking. (I don't always trust the tach. It can lie. But 90% it's right)
If no signal, move to the sensor and check wires, connection......and sensor.

 

Should I be able to hear the fuel pump prime? I just tried and didn't hear it, but I went to my 2.7 4WD and didn't hear it either. I know it's a newer model and different engine, but I figured the system would be similar.

 

No, the fuel pump will not come on until it sees a crank signal.
Toyota uses the ECM to turn on/ff the fuel pump.

Give me a bit too pull diagrams.

 

Really appreciate the help.

 

Check your fuses.....specifically......AM1 and AM2

 

Do you have a scan tool?

About all you can do, is scan it for codes.
And then check resistance on the Crank Sensor without a scope.

I suppose we could jump the fuel pump relay just to see if it will actually run.

 

I have a OBD2 reader. But no CEL. I'll be testing the MAF, crank sensor, and fuel pump tomorrow.

 

Go to live data see if you have RPM while cranking.
Super easy check.

 

Pulled out the OBD2 reader and it fails to connect to the ECU. Soooo, I've pulled the whole dash to get to it and it looks fine. No broken pins, no corrosion, opened the case and there are no signs of anything getting shorted, blown, nothing. Looks brand new. Plugged everything back up and still can't get the reader to connect to the ECU.
Gonna check the crank sensor....but I'm kinda at a loss.

 

Did you use a test light to check fuses? Or just look at them

 

I ohm'ed them out this morning.

 

The 15A ECU-B fuse was really hard to pull out. Do you think that the connectors are just grunged up and that's what killed it?

 

Did you say the maf wiring was burned up lying on the exhaust? That could possibly short out something inside the computer

That wiring goes straight to the pcm

 

Really disheartening to see a daily and dependable truck like this...

 

It melted just enough of the insulation that the 2 wires could have connected across the header.

But I can't afford to just start shotgunning parts at this thing.

 

Did you fix the wiring already?

 

Yes.