2TR Build

I'm not really looking for huge gains. I'm looking for around 50 hp, and eventually more (which is when I'll add boost).

 

This is gonna be a sweet thread.

 

Bolt-on parts generally don't add horsepower they mostly just change the profile of your power curve. And the HP/$$ ratio sucks.

That kit I linked would probably give 50-75hp alone and would be the logical first step. As you want power beyond that you can up the boost, add an intercooler, add engine management, fuel upgrades, and as power really climbs, you can look into building your engine.

Also keep in mind, if a turbo is anywhere in the future, headers would be a waste of money.

 

I'll bet you could see significant gains just from a port and polish. I'm sure the stock motors are better than they were 20 years ago but there's always room for improvement. You can get a really nice kit of abrasives or carbide burrs for around $50. Then it's just time.

 

It could be worse. My 2TR makes 0hp right now. It's locked up like an inmate.

 

I've never done any machining work. Do you think it would be difficult for me to do it myself? Also, I'm not ruling the turbo kit out. I think it's a steal at that price. I'm just concerned about the quality and functionality of it. Taco Nation, marvel mystery oil is your friend buddy.

 

From what I've heard and understand about machining, its relatively easy to learn, but the art and science behind doing it well and effectively is not easy at all. I've never tried it so don't know.

The turbo kit is cheap because it uses a cheap turbo. You could probably sell the turbo on CL or Ebay for $200ish and get a proper turbo or just run it until it blows and get a proper turbo. Lots to be said about cheap turbos but if you are boosting at 5-8psi, you should be ok.

The turbo headers are probably the same quality you'd find with any aftermarket header.

 

I just did a little research. I can grab a Garrett replacement for around 1k if I decided to go with the same turbo. You've got me thinking long and hard about this. Also debating an WRX/STI top mount intercooler since they're a dime a dozen and the silicone hose from the kit runs right where I would mount it.

 

Wouldn't do a top mount. You would need a big ugly scoop for it to work and even then, front mounted would do much better.

 

Heh. Even then, unless your pockets are super deep, you are trying to prove a point, or are bound by class rules no reason not to just toss a roots blower on it. A turbo if you want to go BIG.

I tried making a fast N/A Mustang, I only partially succeeded speed wise, but have come close to an entry level blower kit expenditure wise. And there are ALOT of parts to build a N/A Mustang with, this platform??? (and it is still difficult to do/the path less chosen) Just go some sort of boost and be done with it. Easy for me to spend your money

 

Thought about a TRD Sport hood. Cut the metal off the underside and try to make a functional scoop. Allow me to reiterate: I'm not looking for mad power. Just a bit of an increase.

 

Wouldn't make much diff. There was a reason for the giant scoop on the STI. Even if the IC could fit under the hood mounted like that, with the configuration you are talking about, you'd probably be adding more heat the charged air than taking away. Front mounted IC kits are no more than $100-$200.

 

So here's another random thought:

That parts needed to do a good N/A build probably will not compliment a F/I build. You may end up scrapping/selling a lot of recently acquired parts if/when you change your mind later.

 

There are a lot of people against a N/A build on this thread. I'm just glad someone is venturing out and trying something different with the 4 banger! Keep up the great work!!

 

Here's a few articles about porting heads. The articles are about Oldsmobile motors but the principles are the same for any engine. It's not necessarily about grinding all the ports bigger to flow more air but more about smoothing transitions. Sure the more air flow the better but you can run the risk of grinding into water passages and such. A mild polishing would be beneficial. Imagine that there is water flowing through the head, try to make the path of the water as smooth and consistent as possible. The articles explain it better than I can.

http://www.mondellotwister.com/articles/HeadPortingAtHome.pdf

http://www.mondellotwister.com/articles/PortingAtHome.pdf

I'd still vote for N/A for this build. If you don't want crazy power N/A will probably be more reliable unless you specifically build the motor for boost. I believe LC Engineering makes a set of .060" over pistons. You could get the block bored and go up in displacement. Would prob be close to 3.0!

 

There is a reason 2.7L is about as big a displacement you will see for an I4 gas. Don't bore it out.

If you want a true 50 HP gain, not just a "peak gain," the turbo kit is the logical, and probably cheapest choice.

 

I've just got some thinking to do. I like N/A motors for their simplicity, but boost is fun too, albeit a bit unreliable at times. Thanks for the articles, I'll be sure to give machining a shot when I get the chance.

 

I don't know much about engine modification but I say go for it OP! Interested to see what comes of this thread

 

The issue with all obd2 engines is the lack of tunning options and the need to use a stand alone ecu. I've often thought about doing a mild build, header exhaust, cams, and a tune, but so far it hasn't been necassary even when loaded up on the trails

 

Well depends what kind of power you want. NA builds can be just as, if not more, complicated than turbo builds, and just as unreliable.

Intake, exhaust, headers, etc... don't really add power, or at least not throughout the entire power curve, meaning you won't feel much difference until about 3.5-5k rpms. And for just about the same amount of money, a simple turbo setup like the Ozboost kit will net much more usable power

Either way, good luck! I recommend you sign up on customtacos.com as they have more experience with performance mods, turbos, etc...