2tr-fe all coils code, low voltage at coil

Yea it should providing that's the only issue, you may have to re-pin or bypass that terminal in the connector if you can't get power through it.

 

Man, thank you so much for your help! I would have never been able to figure all that out on my own. I’ll finish up that last connection tomorrow and fingers crossed we’re back in business. I’ll keep you posted. Thanks again!

 

Update: so I cut off the janky splice, did the rewiring so I can check piece by piece as I go. Can verify when plug is in, 12v are coming thru. However, as soon as I complete circuit, voltage drops to 0.5. Here’s some pics:

At pin:


connector in, at output wire:


Connection completed:


So there’s a short somewhere in that blk/red wire, probably?

 

We don't have a short, that would blow the fuse. We have a voltage drop in the circuit, that's why I don't like checking load beqring circuits with a meter unless the circuit is loaded.
I prefer using a test light and on high current circuits like that I use a 5 amp headlight bulb.

 

Shucks, gotcha. I’m not sure what to do next; this might be beyond my skill level to fix.

 

Well we know you have a voltage drop, re-check it at Connector 1B Pin 10 when your sure you have 0.5v at EA1 and make sure you have 12v there.
If you do then you have to have a broken/corroded wire between EA1 and 1B.

 

So to be clear, the blk/red wire at EA1 pin 4 likely needs to be replaced, since the 1B pin 10 wire shows voltage, and they are powered from the same place? Or something like that? Just want to be sure so I can share accurate information with a mechanic when I finally get one over.

Just wanted to also say thank you so much for your help and patience in trying to get this resolved. I got way further than I thought I could with this. Appreciate all you do for tw!

 

You need to find the break in the wire or worst case run an overlay if you can't find it.
It shouldn't be too hard to find, there's only about 4 feet of harness between IB1 and EA1 and wires rarely break/corrode in the cab so that leaves you with the section from the firewall to EA1.
Don't give up on it, you should be really close.
According to your testing.

No problem, it's what I hang out on here for.

 

Sincerely, I appreciate your help!

Do you know where the wire from pin 4 at EA1 goes to? If I’m reading the diagram correctly, pin 10 at 1B sends power to pin 4 at EA1, which it does. But it drops once connected to whatever pin 4 sends power to, which looks to be in the main wiring loom that goes to the coils and other stuff in the engine bay. I don’t know if I’m reading the diagram correctly though.

I’ll try checking for any loose connections in the engine bay; maybe it’s something obvious I’m missing.

 

Pin 4 from the top part of EA1 goes to Pin 1 of the Ignition Coils but your issue isn't in that section since power stops at EA1.

Your issue has to be in this harness between the firewall and fuse box or under the fuse box somewhere between EA1 and where that harness comes in, it can't be anywhere else based on where your telling me you have power and don't.

Also did you re-pin that terminal or why is the wire now Blue/White?




View from inside

 

Ah, I get it now - thanks for the pics; I’ll go root around and see what I can find.

I did re-pin it; when I was removing the old crimp the original blk/red wire snapped and there wasn’t enough wire on the pin side to make a connection.

 

By the way here's an excellent example of how a meter (and even sometimes a test light if it doesn't draw enough current) can get you into trouble because your not loading the circuit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9tZAbR78wI

 

Sorry, one more question - the wire coming out of the top of pin 10 from 1B goes to the bottom of pin 4 EA1, yes? So is it possible to bypass the EA1 connector and connect the pin 10 wire from 1B directly to the blk/red wire that should go into pin 4 at EA1? Thought it’d be a quick way to test if the pin at EA1 is bad.

 

Correct.

Yea you could do that, truck should run once you restore power to the coils.

 

sadly I need remedial videos or something. Maybe a “for dummies” book…

 

?

 

Bro, you are the man - thank you thank you thank you!! I ran a new wire from the top of pin 10 directly to the EA1 pin 4 output and she started right up!
Upon pulling the wire from pin 10 I noticed this:



I don’t know why that splice was there, but it definitely looks burnt. There’s a metal sleeve on that splice that is exposed, so the voltage must have been bleeding from there once the circuit was complete. I’ll need to re-pin the wire to both sides but for now, she’s back to life.

Once again, appreciate your patience, expertise, and help with all of this! You’re the best!

 

lol, when I watch that video, I understand that he is imparting useful information, but my understanding is so limited that it still seems like magic to me. I’m trying to learn but most of the resources start teaching with the assumption of more basics than I have.

 

Yep I bet that shitty butt connector splice is your voltage drop, just need to redo that splice with a proper solder & heatshrink job or a good butt connector.

 

Check out Scanner Danner (linked in my sig), if you undersatand basic electrical fairly well he has beginner level and advanced level stuff.