2TR-FE buring oil

I'd say its started very recently. I'm thinking its a vent or a valve stem seal, but I haven't really looked indepth. Would a stuck PCV valve cause my oil to dirty fast? When I put oil back in it and checked it the oil was already dark. It made it easy to tell it was full, but Every other change I've done the oil stays clear for a few 1000k versus gathering dirt as it runs from the top of the engine to the bottom.

I buy 6 liters of oil when I do a change and normally have just under a liter life over. That puts me right on the "full" mark on the dip stick.

 

I bought it with 126k on it a year and a half ago, it now has 194k on it and I regularly change the oil at 8k. I'm not sure about the history of the truck but it runs the same now as it did before. only difference being the excess oil consumption.

 

Mine is doing the same at 144k miles, it started to get so bad i am now using 15w 40 diesel oil to slow down the oil consumption.

 

Do you know whether it's a stuck PCV valve or if it's more in depth than that?

 

The pcv valve was fine, my situation is more than likely worn valve guide seals.

 

I know this is a old thread but i was wondering if you figured out what is it because im currently running into the same problem, recently i started hearing my timing chain making a weird noise but after further inspection i realize i had literally 2 litres of oil and once i filled it up it run good and like new. My truck has 133k on it and having a problem like rings or something would be unthinkable but you don't know till you figure it out. so it started making that noise again so i checked my oil and the dip stick was bone dry so i filled it up with more oil and the tick is gone, note to self ive driven 450 kilometers and i burnt just over half a liter of oil. So if anyone has any information on how you fixed this it would be awesome.

 

Funny you posted this today as well my 07 with 156k that has never burned oil had a dry oil stick and took a little over a qt to get back on the stick. I also noticed the timing chain noise as well.

 

I legitimately just started a thread about this but I'll jump in... My 09 with 170k miles on it did this yesterday it was down 4.5L of oil. It's not in the rad it's not in the exhaust that I can tell and it's not leaking it anywhere.. my coolant is also down but no clue where it went cause I took the valve cover off expecting to find coolant but nope it's clean as hell

 

with some research and digging i've came to conclusion that it either the rings or the valve stem seals. Im currently going to school for automotive and my teacher told me to try a test, since its a five speed it works i dont know about autos tho. He told me to put it in second gear and rev it out to 5000 whille moving then just let it glide to about 2000 rpm and then floor it again and if blue smoke or really any deeper colour its your valve stem seals but if nothing comes out its rings cause at lower rpm you have a lot of vacuum so its able to suck oil thru the valve stem seals

 

And id recommend keeping some oil in your trucks cause if the ticking gets super loud theres literally no oil in your head and your damage your head plus have a good chance of seizing the whole engine, i talked to a engine builder about how i'm topping off the oil and he said ill blow it up but if these oil in the engine if wont blow

 

Long time lurker, finally decided to join up and chime in on this. Thanks to the TW community for sharing so much good info over the years.
My 2006 2tr-fe starting burning oil a year or two ago at about 170k miles. About a quart every 500 miles. I decided to take the cheap route and just kept on top of adding oil. I use full synth and did replace the PCV. And tried Lucas oil additive once. No decrease in consumption. Now at 200k miles my cat has failed and the secondary air valve is blowing air out under the hood, sounds like a loud exhaust leak. I have a serious loss of power. I have to make a move....
Im not much of a mechanic, but I’ve been talking with a buddy who knows his stuff fairly well and he seems to be convinced that it’s the valve guide seals. He wants me to do a leak down test to confirm.... So, what do I do? At a minimum I think I need to delete the cat and get the O2 simulator and keep adding oil, at the other end of the spectrum i could have someone put a rebuilt motor in and replace the cat. Or have someone change out the valve guide seals and put a new cat in... choices choices... thanks for any input from people smarter than me.

 

It's the rings boys. It's nothing else but the rings. My truck is being disassembled currently and prepped for an engine rebuild. Shortly after posting here my cat became plugged as a result it drank fuel like no tomorrow. I had the block scoped and you can see the massive carbon buildup. It looks like the oil has never been changed even though I'm meticulous about maintenance. This is a manufacturer defect. Like I mentioned in many other posts i believe most 2trfe will suffer from oil control ring failure.

 

How many of you with oil consumption issues use 0W-20 viscosity year 'round?

I am genuinely curious, not trying to make any assumptions based on such a small subset of folks.

 

I have used 5w-30 year round, as per Toyota’s recommendation for 2006 2.7’s. Conventional up til it started burning, then I switched to synthetic.

 

I always run 5w30, used conventional up to 120k miles and then switched to synthetic, now at 148k. It's so solid, the oil level is always exactly the same... sometimes I don't check the level at every fuel up. I might start checking every time now that I'm near 150k. When I do a cold start and the ambient is at or below around 45*F, I always hear a slight knocking sound in the first 2 minutes of running. I understand this is piston slap and is normal for these engines, otherwise it runs perfectly. What kind of timing chain noise are you guys hearing?

 

I ran 5/30 per spec since I bought the truck. Rings have failed on pistons 1/3/4 which is why I'm going through most of the oil so quickly and now fuel since my cat is clogged. I'm going with aftermarket pistons and rings for my rebuild not taking a chance on Toyota pistons having a design flaw

 

I used conventional 5w-30 year round in my 2006 and changed every 5k. Before I rebuilt my engine, I was using a qt of oil every 750-1000 miles. In my case it was failed oil rings too. My valve stem seals were stiff after 187,000 miles but they weren't cracked or brittle to the point it would cause oil consumption at the rate I was seeing.

 

I am also burning oil. just recently noticed. seems to be about .5 a quart to a quart per 1k miles. will nee to keep an eye on it next time i change the oil. what sucks is i just had a blown head gasket and in hindsight i should have had them do a rebuild when they had the engine out. damn.

my question is, when they were doing the head gasket change, would they have been able to tell anything with the rings? the guys said everything looked nice and clean. he said he was actually surprised how clean everything was in there.

i have 187k on it. seems to run fine otherwise. dont notice a lack of power. my mileage is crap. around 17mpgs in winter and 19-20 in the summer but its lifted with E rated tires and mostly city driving. anything i should keep an eye out? im going to start draining the oil every 3k miles i think then changing the filter at 6k just to keep an eye on it and see how much this changes moving forward. also been using full synthetic, probably going to switch back to dino. 5w-20 is what i typically put in

 

It might be valve stem seals. Maybe try a cheapo high mileage oil. Consider 5W30. If I remember correctly, Castrol GTX 2W20 is about the thickest 5W20 dino out there, and is now a blend.

 

Generally if an engine is burning oil, you would see more carbon buildup than would be in a normal engine. Except you had a blown head gasket, which may have leaked coolant into the cylinders, which would have a strong cleaning effect but only in the affected cylinder(s).