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2TR-FE MAF Sensor & Throttle Body Cleaning

Discussion in '4 Cylinder' started by chaddawkins, Feb 10, 2013.

?

After cleaning, do you notice any different engine behavior on a cold start?

  1. NO

    16 vote(s)
    51.6%
  2. Yes, I see a rise in initial RPM

    3 vote(s)
    9.7%
  3. Yes, I see a fall in initial RPM

    2 vote(s)
    6.5%
  4. Yes, I see erratic RPM behavior

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  5. Yes, No, What? I was hoping to seee bewbs

    10 vote(s)
    32.3%
  1. Feb 10, 2013 at 7:48 PM
    #1
    chaddawkins

    chaddawkins [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Chad
    Sasebo, Japan
    Vehicle:
    PreRunner SR5
    Tools:
    10mm Socket
    Ratchet
    3" extension
    Long Nose Pliers
    #1 Phillips (#3 Phillips optional)

    Good Practice:
    Torque Wrench (covers 36-80 in. lb.)
    Ohmmeter

    Hazmat:
    Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner
    Throttle Body Cleaner
    Toothbrush
    Rag


    Disconnect Negative Battery Terminal (36 in. lb.)

    IMG_0113.jpg








    Mass Air Flow Sensor


    There are two methods:

    Pull from Housing
    Disconnect the MAF wire harness, then remove the two #1 Phillips screws.
    Pull the MAF Sensor straight up and out.

    or

    Gain Side Access
    Disconnect Air Filter Housing Clips (2), front.
    Loosen the Hose Clamps (2) (44 in. lb.) and slide the Hose off the Air Filter Housing.
    Disconnect the MAF Sensor Connector and Wire Harness Clamp.
    Lift Air Filter Housing straight up.
    Note: To gain access to BOTH sides of the MAF Sensor, remove the Charcoal Filter from the Air Filter Housing.
    IMG_0110.jpg



    Side view of the MAF sensor, following Method 2.
    Clean with MAF Sensor Cleaner, following directions on back.
    DO NOT TOUCH SENSOR
    IMG_0122.jpg



    Reverse process to reassemble.
    I recommend inspecting the MAF Sensor after reassembly:
    00600210.pdf






    Throttle with Motor Body Assembly

    Remove the Resonator Bolts (3) (71 in. lb.)
    Loosen the Hose Clamp, both sides of Resonator (44 in. lb.)
    Disconnect the Vacuum Hose
    Disconnect the No. 2 Ventilation Hose
    Disconnect the Pressure Sensor Connector​

    IMG_0115.jpg



    Lift the Resonator and Hose Assembly up and forward, exposing the Throttle Body Assembly.
    Disconnect the Throttle Motor Connector.
    Remove the Bolts (2) and Nuts (2) (80 in. lb.)
    Disconnect the Water By-Pass Hoses (2).
    Lift Throttle Body Assembly stright up, exposing the Intake Manifold.
    Note: There is a non-reusable rubber gasket between the Throttle Body Assembly and the Intake Manifold (I reused mine).
    IMG_0117.jpg



    Bottom view, before cleaning.
    IMG_0124.jpg



    Bottom view, after cleaning.
    Clean with Throttle Body Cleaner, following directions on back.
    IMG_0125.jpg



    Reverse process to reassemble.
    I recommend inspecting the Throttle Motor after reassembly:
    0060068.pdf





    .

    IMG_0112.jpg
     
  2. Feb 10, 2013 at 11:19 PM
    #2
    EricTheRed

    EricTheRed Damn dirty Swede

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    Bravo! Thank you sir...I appreciate having clear directions like this.
     
  3. Feb 11, 2013 at 12:58 AM
    #3
    2TRunner

    2TRunner Don't give up here just yet

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    Nice work.

    Grab a bottle of sea foam and run it through the intake as well. Typically hooked up to the vacuum line off the brake booster, it's sucks the SF through the vacuum line and cleans out the air chamber.
     
  4. Feb 12, 2013 at 6:14 AM
    #4
    wing103

    wing103 Well-Known Member

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    Nice write up, thanks a lot for the info.
     
  5. Feb 15, 2013 at 2:38 PM
    #5
    alwaysfaded

    alwaysfaded Well-Known Member

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    blacked out tint, k&n drop in, removed secondary filter, kenwood 7" touchscreen, 12" memphis audio sub, 1000 watt amp, Alpine type R conponets
    Awesome job, was looking for exactly this.
     
  6. Feb 24, 2013 at 9:16 AM
    #6
    toyodajeff

    toyodajeff Well-Known Member

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    did you notice any diffrence in performance or Mpg's after doing this
     
  7. Feb 26, 2013 at 3:20 PM
    #7
    chaddawkins

    chaddawkins [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sasebo, Japan
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    Yes - I deleted my secondary air filter at the same time, and the battery was disconnected long enough to reset the ecu. This is the reason I posted the poll, so everyone could see what to expect as time goes on
     
  8. Jan 20, 2014 at 1:18 PM
    #8
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    Seat belt beeper, Cabelas (Weathertech) floor liner gray, Covercraft Seat Savers in Taupe, Protecta Heavy Duty Rubber Truck Bed Mat, Pop n Lock PL5200, Pace Edwards Full Metal JackRabbit, Wolverine oil pan heater, Scangauge2, afe pro dry s filter, Remote Underbody 4 Piece LED Light Kit (White) used as Bed light, DIY Washable Cabin Air Filter, PA15-TOY, 4x4 Illuminated Switch, full synthetic, Redline Tuning Hood Support, Smittybilt Nerf Steps black powder-coated
    Thanks for the write up and pics. ImpulseRed008 posted the link for me in the 6 forum. There are tons of write ups and Sticky's for 6's but only 2 in the 4 cylinder forum. I'm going to ask a mod to make this a Sticky in the 4 cylinder forum. Thanks again for your work on this.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2014
  9. Jan 20, 2014 at 1:57 PM
    #9
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    Seat belt beeper, Cabelas (Weathertech) floor liner gray, Covercraft Seat Savers in Taupe, Protecta Heavy Duty Rubber Truck Bed Mat, Pop n Lock PL5200, Pace Edwards Full Metal JackRabbit, Wolverine oil pan heater, Scangauge2, afe pro dry s filter, Remote Underbody 4 Piece LED Light Kit (White) used as Bed light, DIY Washable Cabin Air Filter, PA15-TOY, 4x4 Illuminated Switch, full synthetic, Redline Tuning Hood Support, Smittybilt Nerf Steps black powder-coated
    This is now a Sticky so it will be very easy for all us 2.7 4 Cylinder owners to be able to easily take advantage of your write up. Thanks to mod chris4x4 for making it happen.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2014
  10. Jul 26, 2014 at 6:32 AM
    #10
    Hartford

    Hartford Well-Known Member

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    Does anyone know if the throttle body gasket is a part that can only be bought through toyota? I checked my local auto parts store yesterday and they didn't have any part numbers or anything. I know OP says you may not need one, but it would be my luck to damage the old one.
     
  11. Jul 29, 2014 at 5:43 PM
    #11
    drogers0031

    drogers0031 Member

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  12. Sep 12, 2014 at 11:01 AM
    #12
    DGXR

    DGXR Well-Known Member

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    aFe Pro Dry air filter, magnetic oil drain plug, synthetic seat covers, steering wheel cover
    2 weeks ago I did the MAF and throttle body cleaning, and a spark plug change (105000 miles). Cold start RPMs were around 1500 before, now they are 2100 after. Also looks like a noticeable drop in MPGs -- used to hit 80 miles on a full tank before the gas gauge came down to the F mark, today it only had 55 miles at the F mark. Will have to do the calculation to see the truth but it doesn't look good. Doesn't run any smoother either but it always ran smooth, even before the MAF and throttle body cleaning and new plugs.
     
  13. Sep 12, 2014 at 2:43 PM
    #13
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    All that work and drop in MPGs :eek::eek:. That shouldn't be - let us know if it gets better when the computer has time to relearn. Thanks.
     
  14. Sep 13, 2014 at 10:47 AM
    #14
    DGXR

    DGXR Well-Known Member

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    Will do.

    A couple things I forgot to add:
    1) I did disconnect the battery for several hours during the service so that the computer can re-learn based on information from the clean MAF.
    2) After doing the service, I did my routine workday driving for a week and then took a road trip to the coast. The average over 635 miles was 25.4 MPG, which is generally "good," but this road trip was about 70% highway -- keep in mind that my routine workday driving is 50% highway (with more frequent cold starts than a road trip), with an overall average of 24 MPG prior to the service.

    The cold start RPMs do seem to be coming down very slowly over time and I am hopeful that they will eventually mellow out at the 1600-1700 range. But I will give an update later, maybe in a month, unless a sudden change happens and then I will post sooner.
     
  15. Sep 13, 2014 at 10:53 AM
    #15
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    This is very interesting. Thanks for your reply and update. Looking forward to your post in a month or two. I wonder how much time the relearn usually takes for us 2.7's :confused:
     
  16. Sep 17, 2014 at 10:29 PM
    #16
    DGXR

    DGXR Well-Known Member

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    aFe Pro Dry air filter, magnetic oil drain plug, synthetic seat covers, steering wheel cover
    Looks like my speculation about the lower MPGs may have been wrong, although it was easy to make this mistake when the full mark showed about 55 miles, which is very strange, the truck has never done that before.

    My routine driving (before MAF and TB cleaning, and new plugs) yielded 24.3mpg and looked like this:
    Full mark = 80 miles
    3/4 mark = 140 miles
    1/2 mark = 240 miles
    1/4 mark = 340 miles
    It was amazingly consistent too, "like clockwork" as they say.

    My current tank was at ~252 miles today when the 1/2 mark passed, so now it looks much better than anticipated and I'm a little excited. Cold start RPMs are still too high but still coming down very slowly. Will post another update after filling up next week.
     
  17. Sep 22, 2014 at 10:24 AM
    #17
    DGXR

    DGXR Well-Known Member

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    Filled up this morning: 24.6 MPG on this last tank of routine driving.

    Didn't drive the truck at all this weekend and today's cold startup hit 2500 RPM.
     
  18. Oct 21, 2014 at 3:15 PM
    #18
    DGXR

    DGXR Well-Known Member

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    OK this is going to be my last update (in this thread):

    Last tank was 25.3 MPG and still purrs like a kitten, very pleased.
    However...
    Cold start RPMs are rising back up a tiny bit as the winter overnight temps keep dropping... any given day, cold start may be anywhere in the 2200-2500 RPM range. I'm not worried about anything breaking or wearing out prematurely... the higher cold RPMs are for a quick warmup of the cats (to qualify as a LEV) but it is quite annoying.
     
  19. Mar 31, 2015 at 2:17 PM
    #19
    LIRR

    LIRR Member

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    I'm running a 2002 2.7 taco, 4x4, new plugs, did the MAF cleaning with a battery disconnect. Still getting 13 MPG??? I plan on doing a Throttle Body cleaning this week (if the damn snow will ever let up), changed the plugs too. Am I missing something? I've got a code for the Idle Air Control Motor. Does that need to be cleaned or replaced?
     
  20. Apr 12, 2015 at 8:43 PM
    #20
    tacoma4

    tacoma4 Well-Known Member

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    How much coolant did you lose when you took the throttle body off?
     
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