2TR-FE Rebuild/Refresh

@bijick, @jsutter, I don't wanna thread jack, go to https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/flatbed-mkii-mods-and-bs.523008/ and I will answer your questions there.

 

I'm not really doing this for money so probably not. Sorry. I can help with advice though.

Lancaster

Right?!

 

I'm right down 30E

 

Got the rest of the little parts off the block this weekend. Oil filter assembly, sensors etc.

I took the crank and cams into work and gave a quick clean. After that I thoroughly checked them. All looking very good. There is one bearing surface on the intake cam that has a little marking but it's small and you can't even feel it or measure it with a dial indicator so I'm not worried about it.

I have oil clearance specs for the cams and the rods but not the crank. Does anyone know where I can find all of the tolerances?



John

 

I found the specs somewhere else on here.

Here's a link to the service manual.
http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old/files/05FSM/repair.html

The 2TR engine mechanical service data section is it. Based on that all my measurements show at the bottom of the tolerance or a tenth low. I'm not too worried about that. The main bearings are listed as No.3 2.3615 at the bottom and all else 2.3619 bottom. Those I got about .0004-.0005 lower. Once I check actual oil clearance I'll know for sure. May call around and get some opinions on that as well.

I'd rather avoid any machining on the crank or bearings. All measurements were taken with a Tesa digital mic and done in 3 spots front and rear of each journal. My noted measurements are the bottom of what I saw with a max variation of .00005 at most .0001

John

 

I put 750k miles on an 2005 2TR FE,
4x2 5Speed,
before totalling it.
Oil consumption became an issue at 250k miles.
In looking at your pistons,
I strongly recommend that, after rebuild/break in,
you only use the highest quality synthetic motor oil,
with 10k or less mile oil and filter change intervals.
Amsoil Signature Series.
Red Line.
Mobil 1 Extended Performance.
Royal Purple HPS.
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum.
Castrol Gold Bottle.
~ 5W20.
It is so cool that you have a 4x4 5Speed.
The truck will last you forever.
Drive it hard, my man !

 

It is too late for you. Sorry. You might be able to replace the valve stem seals and have that be the fix. I am glad you live in Tejas, and do not have to deal with CA smog laws. You could always just use cheap dino oil and keep topping it off.

The point I was trying to make is, given the mega durability of the 2TR FE, do what you can for the piston region. Even regular M1 is nothing, when compared to M1 EP or AP. The esters give extra cleanliness, useful when driving our trucks for many hundreds of thousands of miles.

 

Which weight oil are you using?

 

@Loxsl , you've come a good way since your last post.

You planning on reusing the current bearings, or getting new ones?

Are you getting new piston rings, or staying the same?

Also, cannot remember. Doing the counter-balance shaft delete?

 

Try a 30 weight. 0w, or 5w.

 

These numbers look excellent. .0005 deviation, that must be within spec. Keep the photos coming! Great work!

 

Hey guys,
Been a bit here. My work changed from 2nd to 1st shift and I started working on my family's truck rust repair, which has taken up a good bit of time. I haven't stopped on the Tacoma though. Also just found out what my tax refund is so I know what parts I can afford to get.

I'm gonna try and get to the block cleaning here and more inspection yet. Here's some piston rod pics.


Gentle tapping to get the wrist pins out.

Light stoning to remove a small bur.

Torqued caps on so I can confirm old tolerances

Gotta check the rod bearing yet.
I must have had a bur on cyl 4 wrist pin or got something on it because it scored the bearing when I removed it. Gonna have to figure out what I want to do there.

John

 

Impressive inspection tools! I like those copper jaw covers on your vise as well. So cool to see the motor torn apart!

 

It's been a little bit since I updated. Some things happened at my work that ended with me on 1st shift and more responsibilities so I've not done much but sleep. Here's some good ones though.

I checked the last part of the rods with a bore gauge. It's a pain to set up but very accurate and the best way to check cylinders.

Also I cleaned the block. RIP my extra bath tub! I tried a bin first but it was just too small.


You have to set it up to a known size with gauge blocks then your measuring the deviation from that.

Numbers look great and old oil gap was getting to the end but not bad for 220k

Engine cleaning!

Removed freeze plugs 1st

Soaked in degreaser

The laundry detergent did a great job. There's a few corners that may need some attention before I paint it but not bad.

Blow off everything thoroughly the spray WD40 on internal parts.

Taking it to work tomorrow to check mains, cylinders and flatness. Will also clean up mating surfaces of any Mark's

Just got my tax return too so as soon as I know what the block is like I'm ordering parts! Finally!

John

 

Good to see!

 

You must be a bachelor. Using the bath tub as a solvent tank

 

I mean... yeah but it is just laundry detergent... and grease. Next house project is to redo my laundry area and this bathroom, so no problem. I'll put in a big wash sink then.

 

Great coverage once again. Cool way to set up your bore gauge. I have only used one with a bore master ring that the company provided. Thanks for the tip!

 

Update! Its Friday! And I got stuff done.

The block has been fully checked. The head surface has a total deviation of .0022. The spec says no more then .002 but if you exclude the very corners its closer to .0015. Basically I'm not worried. There's no part that dips and the surface looks good after some stoning.


Checked by setting on surface plate on 1-2-3 blocks and shimmed till level.

Cylinders are not bad either. 1 and 3 are great and in spec. 2 and 4 are slightly out of round but mostly in spec. 2 spots are a little out but cyl 4 had the best compression out of all of them. I dont think I'm worried here either. A quick hone should be good to go.

Mains also look good. Based on oil clearance measurement the original crank numbers make sense. They do not match the reference I found though. I will confirm with LC Engineering before I order new ones. That should be monday.



Hopefully all this number stuff is somewhat interesting or helpful. I'll be one to the fun of putting things back together soon.

Need to pick a color for the block.

Here's the truck again. Thoughts on color?


Thanks for tuning in guys
John