2TR-FE Rebuild/Refresh

lol yeah

 

Please don't forget to take the spring measurements

 

Is that basically a beefed up handheld laser engraver? Seems like its just burning off the layer it touches. I'd be curious if you used it on a gage block, if it would mic smaller after.

 

I'd guess it's hot enough to burn off the crud but not enough to cut metal. Like a wood laser engraver cant do much to metal. If you lose a tenth no big deal really.

 

I just wanna know for Science!

 

There's plenty of videos online, explain how it works... all I know is it eats away everything but metal

 

Love the bungees on that laser gun. Very high-tech!

 

So here's something. I run wire EDM machines at work, and we use this light phosphoric acid cleaner to cut the burnt metal residue. It's mainly carbon build up.

I tried it on some aluminum to see if it would stain it or anything. Looks pretty good. The cleaner is only like 10% acid.
I flipped the dirty one to the other side for next pic

Added acid and let sit for a couple min. Then, scrub with scotch brite and rinse with water

Maybe the slightest pink tint but cant really say for sure.

I'll find out what it is but should cut carbon well.

 

Did your kit come with a head gasket? If so, what's the quality like?

 

It did but I didn't actually open the packet of gaskets and seals. I can look tonight. Seals I could see looked good

 

I've been trying to find time to post and as a result there's a lot to show. I'll try and break it up into posts about the same things.

Let's start with the head. I took it to work, gave it an initial wash and cleaned the gasket surface then checked it. Its definitely within .0015 so all good.



After that I pulled the valves and got to cleaning. The head came out reasonable and the valves are still soaking. I used that acid cleaner I tried on test blocks.

Careful here to not scuff the gasket surface!


I'll post about the rest of my progress a little later.

@05Taco4x4 I have half the spring measurements and an idea on how to get valve lift. I'll post those when I have them all.

John

 

Ok here is a continuation of the work I did over the weekend and earlier this week.

I installed the balance shaft delete from LCE


Next up was the freeze plugs. I used a little sand paper to clean up the holes first. Using nice new brass plugs over the factory galvanized steel.

I coated them in Permatex High Tack before installing


While I was at work I used a pin mic to confirm that the new bearings are the right size compared to the old ones. Then put the new pistons on the rods. I actually reused the wrist pins and bushings as the new ones were like 3 tenths or .0003 smaller and I knew the old ones were in spec with the correct oil clearance.

I definitely like that Lucas assembly lube.

Last is a big one! I honed the block. Something to look into if you're ever building a high performance engine is what's called a honing plate or boring plate. It's basically a 2in block of metal that is head gasket shaped. The idea is you bolt the plate to the block with a gasket in the middle and torque to spec. Supposedly there can be minor distortion in the cylinder from torquing the head down. Then you bore and hone through it so the cylinders are correct when the head is installed.

If everything is very flat this would be extremely minimal but hey, when doing performance it might be worth it. Since I am not boring and only honing for surface finish I decided to not make one. However, ball hones can mark up the top of a hole as they are used, so I made a block from some plastic to protect the gasket surface while honing.

That is a ball hone or flex hone and is great for getting a few tenths out or for surface finish. Use a 240-280 grit for cylinders. It was really fast. Had to run the drill slow and move quickly.

I will need to clean it again just to make sure all the grit is out of there but looking good and almost ready for assembly.

John

 

Looks good

 

Also known as a "torque plate."



That plate makes a world of difference, when boring. Ask BMW.... Makes sure the the cylinders are concentric under torque. A very worthy investment.

Your engine is coming along well , and I respect your acute attention to detail.

 

I dont know if I'd say a world of difference. If your gasket surfaces are flat within. 001 you'll likely see only a few tenths .0003 max change in bore. There'll be more warpage around the bolts then in the bore. People have been making high performance engines for years without this by making sure everything is dead nuts first.

That being said, if it's a high performance engine and you're doing all that already it's a good way to ensure a couple extra tenths. Not going to make or break your engine but may make it last a little longer.

 

I'm no machinist but I have been working on motors for a long time and those cylinder scores look extremely, almost excessively deep. May just be the camera angle or maybe it will clean up to look better before final assembly.

 

I think it's mostly the lighting. I used the flash on my phone as it showed the marks better. I used the recommended size and grit hone fpr this so it should be good.

I will do some extra checking though to confirm.

 

http://hotrodenginetech.com/dart-blocks-honed-to-perfection/

It's a ways down the page but that talks a good bit about honing and finish measurements. I think the picture is making it look really deep but like I said I'll double check. A 30 to 40 microinch finish is the goal.

I did that late at night so I'm kinda questioning myself. You've got me all nervous now.

 

Don't be nervous, you obviously have far more experience with this stuff than I do. My statement was just an observation, and I can see how a flash photo could exaggerate the appearance of the hone marks. And if I could see the cylinders in person I would likely retract my statement. Carry on with confidence.