2TR-FE Rebuild/Refresh

I'm highly interested in the clutch performance when you get it back on the road. Mine needs replaced most likely.

This thread is by far one of the best real engine builds I've ever read! Keep it up man!

 

Man I wouldn’t want to touch that surface but I know you don’t wanna take that head off

 

I tend to agree but you hit the nail on the head. If I make sure its polished up I dont think it will be a problem.

 

So I've been doing some reading. Since we have hydraulic lifters, there should be no lash, the lifter should have some amount of preload and a lot of room to compensate, I'm not positive on all of how our lifters differ from that of a v8 with pushrods except ours are not adjustable.

I'm now thinking maybe a stuck lifter or something like that. May have gotten dirt or something in there. Idk. It's hard to find some of this info.

 

So I pulled the valve cover and looked at the rockers. Almost all of them can be pushed down. Since there has not been oil forced through them in a while that makes some sense. However one of the exhaust ones on cyl 3 was solid. I've pulled the cams and checked a couple. I'm seeing travel of aprox. 0.040in. That solid one will not move.

I'm going to try and clean them but in the mean time does anyone know where I can get new ones?

Thanks

edit: purchased DNJ ones from Carid.

 

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...6toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/00800910.pdf

Step 27 (page 70)

 

Thanks for that info. Is that a tool I'd need to get from Toyota?

I already ordered new lash adjusters since the one doesn't move at all, which I'm pretty sure it should.

 

you can use a paper clip too. Doesnt have to be the tool

 

Yeah I thought about that like half a second after I posted it.

 

I didn't know a paper clip would work, I've seen videos of guys using drill bits

 

Have you got around to trying anything, any luck?

 

Well, my lash adjusters were supposed to get here yesterday, but only 11 did. They somehow thought to send the 11 they had and the other 5 when they got those. As if I could use only 11.

The other 5 will be here monday. In the meantime I figured out a way to measure how much preload the adjusters are under and plan to use that to determine how much if any I should take off the tappets.

 

Anxious for the findings.

 

So here's where I'm at.

I took some measurements of both old and new lash adjusters. What I was looking for was extended length and compressed length.

Old was 1.488" and 1.432"

New ones came with oil in them so I had to release that to see what compressed was.
1.458" and 1.353"

That made me go back to the old one and I realized that it was not compressing the full amount unless I held something in the valve not just after I had drained it.

rechecked and got 1.346"

I then checked a few more both old and new and realized the new on average are about .02" shorter when extended and close to the same compressed(at least as much as I trust my garage calipers). Going back to my previous post about cam lift and the rocker measurement, we know the lifter would have to move something like twice as much as the valve to make things even. So basically fully extended they won't open the valve quite as much but .01 is a very minimal difference and likely the same as the combined reground amount and re-lapping.

The new lifters all would compress to the same length without a pin in them, once initially drained. The old however, would compress to varying lengths which makes me think they are not draining correctly(something in them?)

Also since the adjusters have like .110" of travel I'm even less concerned about the re-ground valves. I was unable to manipulate an indicator in a way to measure well so I had to pretty much scrap that idea.

To sum up, I'm going to hopefully receive the last 5 lifters tomorrow. I'm going to I guess drain them all so they will compress initially, and can fill to where they need to be once running? What I've seen on other lifters I don't think they need to be primed or anything. If the compression is still an issue, I will pull the rockers and leave the cams so the chain is kept in place, then try a test. If that still has an issue, its not lifter or timing related, if its good then I know its lifters or timing.

John

 

Perfect. Just be sure to crank it to build oil pressure before starting!

 

I'll be doing a compression test anyway.

 

They should have oil in them and hard to compress when installed

 

I dont know that it would be an issue either way, but after some additional reading, I'm thinking unprimed. If they are primed and fully extended they could cause the valves to hang open. If instead they are empty when installed they will do the neccessary preload. They then need to be primed, either through proper oil priming tools or turning the engine over.

 

If it was a small block chevy, I would advise against it. But oiling is far superior than it used to be

How'd it go?

 

True but if there's any thing really great about the 2tr it's the oiling system.

New lifters installed and it fixed my cyl 3 issue. I now have 180-190 on 2, 3, and 4. Cyl 1 is still 140psi. I'm going to try and squirt some oil in on the wall to see if there's just not enough there. I vaguely remember one cylinder got a little under oiled.

Realistically I think one of the valves is not fully seated. I bought another head gasket in case I need to take it back off. It will be here tomorrow.

Pic from changing intake side lifters, cause not enough images right now.