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2WD Clutch & Rear Main Oil Seal Oil Pan Gasket Replacement

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by okrausonia, Mar 17, 2013.

  1. Mar 17, 2013 at 4:34 PM
    #1
    okrausonia

    okrausonia [OP] Member

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    I've been reading and gathering information from the forum here for awhile. Thanks for all the wonderful information available here! A couple of weekends ago, I replaced my clutch, rear main oil seal, and oil pan seal. I thought it would be good to share some pictures and insights to help anyone else along.

    My stock clutch had 172,000 miles. It was starting to slip and I also had a rear main oil seal leak. While I was at it, I redid the oil pan seal as it was a bit leaky. I used a ratchet strap held with a piece of 2 x 4 through the shifter opening along with a floor jack to lower the transmission. A 24"+ long extension with swivel sockets is a must to remove the upper transmission bolts. I also made a 2 x 12 x 16 "wheely board" to lay the transmission onto to get from under the truck and roll it around. Just a 2 x 12 with 4 dolly wheels on the bottom.

    I replaced the clutch with an Aisin CKT-050 kit from Amazon. I got a rear main seal from the local Toyota dealership. I used Permatex "Right Stuff" for sealant. I was impressed with the "right stuff". It sets up fast, but seems to be much thicker and all around better than the normal Permatex stuff. The whole process went fairly smooth but it was a lot of work. After I removed the transmission, I removed the oil pan. I had to take off the front cross member and loosen the sway bar in order to slip out the oil pan. The pan came loose fairly easily using a rubber mallet and a stiff putty knife. I removed the rear seal retainer also. I popped in the new seal, replaced the retainer, then the oil pan. I was careful with the rear seal and put grease on the inner lip to prevent burning. After scraping the pan and engine clean, I practiced placing the oil pan back in place a few times. The space is tight and I didn't want to smear the sealant. I managed to get the new sealant on and the pan back in place in 5-7 minutes before the sealant had time to settle.

    As part of the clutch job, I replaced the flywheel. I got new mounting pins from Toyota. I installed the new flywheel, disc, and pressure plate. I put the new throwout bearing on the clutch fork. I wheeled the transmission under and put the shifter end on top of the unmovable cross bar and then used the ratchet strap to slowly pull it into place. I had to move the strap a few times as it got closer to position. With the unremovable cross member in the way, I don't think a transmission jack will help much. I also removed the shift tower thing from the transmission before removing the whole transmission. I made a little plywood cover to keep out debris. The transmission is much easier to get off and back in place without the tower. On the 2WD, you have to get the transmission in place turned 90 degrees towards the driver side when you remove and replace. The clearance is very tight and it takes quite a bit of maneuvering. Once I finally got it in place, I jacked up the engine slightly with another jack. This helped everything line up. With the proper alignment, everything slid into place. It was then a matter of bolting it up to torque, reconnecting all the electrical connections, the slave cylinder, etc. I used a new transmission tower rubber gasket Toyota calls an "extension housing baffle". It should be torqued to 12 foot lbs. Watch the 6 little metal washers. They come off easily. I had to adjust the clutch pedall a bit, but it all came together and so far, is working great.

    I've attached some photos of the process.

    Block for Ratchet Strap.jpg
    New Seal Oil Pan Off.jpg
    Ratchet Strap.jpg
    Ready for Work.jpg
    Transmission Lowering.jpg
     
  2. Dec 6, 2015 at 9:40 AM
    #2
    Master96Yota

    Master96Yota Active Member

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    Hey can you tell me what the oil pan sealant you used is called or what it is in general. Because i need to change my oil pan seal. Can you also give me some tips and anything i might need to know when im changing the seal. And is the seal a gasket or is it just sealant.
     
  3. Dec 6, 2015 at 3:06 PM
    #3
    okrausonia

    okrausonia [OP] Member

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    I used a permatex sealant called "The Right Stuff" heres a link on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-9907...449442749&sr=8-2&keywords=Right+stuff+sealant
    It comes in a tube like caulk and with a small caulk gun. You have to work quickly with it as it dries fast. On my 1996 2wd 4 cylinder there's no gasket. Not sure, but i don't think any tacoma of this vintage uses an oil pan gasket, just sealant. I read where the right stuff is the same or very similar to the Toyota brand of sealant.
     
  4. Dec 7, 2015 at 4:46 PM
    #4
    Master96Yota

    Master96Yota Active Member

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    Thanks alot. Its always good to know you can come here for any kind of help. Yea i have the same truck except mine is a dX single cab.
     
  5. Dec 7, 2015 at 5:26 PM
    #5
    okrausonia

    okrausonia [OP] Member

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    I cleaned off all the old sealant from the bottom of the engine and the pan. I then put a bead all the way around the pan and made a circle around the bolt holes. I tried to put enough, but not too much, so it would not leave a lot of extra goop inside the pan and possibly break off in the engine. I let it sit for an hour or so to let it harden.

    I also practiced getting the pan back in place a couple of times before i applied the sealant. Its supposed to go back together in about 5 minutes. I didn't want to mess it up as i put the pan back. I torqued it to factory specs. I dont remeber these off hand but they should be easy to find in the manual.
     
  6. Dec 22, 2015 at 7:32 AM
    #6
    Master96Yota

    Master96Yota Active Member

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    Did you sand the surface of the oil pan and engine before you put the sealant on or did you just make sure it was all gone. Also Is permatex ultra black a good choice instead of "right stuff" because its alot cheaper and im working on a budget.
     
  7. Dec 22, 2015 at 1:29 PM
    #7
    okrausonia

    okrausonia [OP] Member

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    I did sand the surfaces with some 320 or so grit sandpaper. I made sure everything was good and cleaned off prior to the sealant. I'm not sure about the black sealer. I'd suppose that it will work, but my research seems to indicate that the "right stuff" was equivalent of the toyota sealer. I've used the black silicone in the past on other engine parts. The "right stuff" seems different to me because it dries faster and and is more "rubbery". I understand the budget dilemma, but I didn't want to do it twice. 2 1/2 years later, no leaks.
     
  8. Feb 24, 2018 at 4:45 PM
    #8
    TommyTheTaco2

    TommyTheTaco2 New Member

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    Hey I'm curious what you did to seal the retainer to the oil baffle and the extension housing the tranny. I have a leak there but can't figure out what I need to stop it, I can't find any gaskets and after reading this I'm thinking I'll need to seal it but just want to make sure I use the right stuff, is the "right stuff" what you used on your truck to seal those parts? I'm also planning on replacing the bushing, seat and boot because I know they are cheap and in the same area, any other tips would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
     
  9. Feb 25, 2018 at 7:31 AM
    #9
    okrausonia

    okrausonia [OP] Member

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    I didn't use any sealant on the oil baffle and retainer. I installed a new baffle. If I remember right it's a rubbery gasket. Maybe I should have...The manual says:
    Sealant: Part No. 08833 - 00080. THREE BOND 1344. LOCTITE 242 or equivalent
    Torque: 18 N·m (185 kgf·cm. 13 ft·lbf). I'm not sure if the "right stuff" is an equivalent or not, but it would likely do the job. Maybe there's a cross reference on the Loctite web site?
     
  10. Feb 25, 2018 at 10:04 AM
    #10
    TommyTheTaco2

    TommyTheTaco2 New Member

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    Ok cool thank you! I'm having issues finding information about the oil baffle, I know it is in that same spot but thought it was a metal piece of sorts so I was going to try and skip buying a new one, but are you saying that the baffle is a rubbery gasket? because then I should probably do that too
     
  11. Feb 25, 2018 at 10:23 AM
    #11
    okrausonia

    okrausonia [OP] Member

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    If I remember correctly, the baffle is a rubbery thing. That's why I didn't think to put any sealant on it. It seemed more like a gasket by itself. I've attached the relevant pages from the Toyota service manual. Maybe that'll help.
     

    Attached Files:

    TommyTheTaco2 likes this.

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