2wd U-joints: lubed for life?

60k is good imo. i avg 10k if that on my DD and 1-2k mi. offroad only in my toys. they always have grease in them (except when i tried the sealed units) they wore out from abuse. had broken needles scored journals etc

 

If you buy ujoints from the same company they have exactly same seal. pick two in autozone or Napa that are manufactured by the same company
Example from NAPA ( was not even lookign to hard for it) Notice black "seals"


so if you dont feel like crawling under the truck you can just fill greasable with grease, put rubber cap (the same as on brake bleed screws ) and voila you have "sealed" u-joints.
Soon there will be no greasable u-joints because with "sealed" u-joints there is steady stream of suckers replacing their u-joints. Easy Money for dealerships.

 

there will always be greasable u joints. you ever seen a rebuildable $300 u joint? ppl that spend coin like that will never buy a non greasable version

 

You would think but show me a new vehicle sold in US that has grease able wheel bearings. Ones that can be greased and re tighten as they wear out. Who would think such a simple convenience is going to be gone.

 

i can show you a brand new axle with a greaseable wheel bearing. your right ppl are to caught up with cheese burgers and its changing the way or vehicles are put together. what i was getting at was show me a new vehicle with a 300$ u joint... you cant. its the true offroad enthusiast that will keep the market alive for greaseable bearings. because they know REAL 4X4'S ARE BUILT NOT BOUGHT

 

I do not think it is worth drilling and tapping. Just take it apart and put in new ones. Mine went out at 60K miles because I beat the hell out of it off-road. It started squeaking really bad and gave me harsh vibrations.

 

Not!
There is a hole that allows the old grease to flow out, it must be plugged. Sealed units are not completely full of grease, maybe 60%...
Why the heck is this even being suggested?

Hmmm, time for a new crystal ball.......

 

FTMFW

 

so iv read this and damn....

i got prerunner, what do i have to do in order to get zerks retrofitted into my ds which would allow me to grease it? i know you gotta buy it but is there a write up somewhere on how to do this?

 

check you local auto stores.. then driveshaft shop.. if all else fails call the masters of d shaft imo Tom Woods

 

I would tell you what has a hole
but I am curios about your magic hole so please find a pic in FSM and post here ...
Grease to flow out ?? WHere it supposed to flow out ?? You have two pics of u-joints do you see any holes there ? I am too lazy to make pics of my spare joints
Dont tell me you are talking about channels inside the u-joint is that what you call hole??

 

how do they attach or fit with the ds is kinda what i was trying to get at

 

how does a u joint attach to the d shaft? or a grease zerk?

 

U-joint caps are pressed into the yoke if you doing by yourself you can use that
to press old ones out and new ones in Dont remember if new ds has locking tabs (I assume they have) you should reuse old ones as they usually spaced to balance the shaft

 

k haha duh im in class right now not thinking all that clearly...damn statistical quality control is so damn mundane, lame and flat out boring. cool im thinking about doing more research into this

 

its quite simple, buy that press $40 best spent, if your u-joints are not burned into the yoke it takes little over 30 minutes per u-joint. When you putting back make sure you keep checking if cap is going straight so it does not scratch walls of the yoke. You can use some gear oil on the finger to smear yoke and the outside of the cap to help get in the position. FSM has all process step by step.

 

got the fsm on a shortcut on the computer

 

yup its really not hard if you have done them b4 or have a good idea of the process going in.. but there are a few tricks.. a brass hammer can be a very good friend. ie if the u joint is going in smooth and all the sudden is slightly stiff (and you know a needle didnt fall over) tap the ear of the yoke and it'll free right up. also when removing the original joint from time to time the yoke ears come closer together. b4 install of the new 1 hold the joint next to the yoke and eyeball it to check if the ears need to be spread abit(becarefull if they do)