3.4, how hot is too hot?

100% worth it. The automatic transmission is far happier being "back in range" to turn the tires. Feels like stock again.

 

That’s a great looking rig.

 

One thing that happens with the radiator is the AC condenser sweats onto
the radiator on that foot print area and the radiator ends up getting all plugged
up from dirt and grime that sticks to the radiator in that area. My radiator was
as thick as mud behind the condenser area. You could not even see the plugged area unless
you removed the radiator. The stock radiator is pretty crappy in quality.
The Champion radiator is absolutely the way the go. Your temps will
stay around 190. It’s a 3 core radiator all metal including the petcock instead of stock single core and more than twice as thick,
NO plastic parts to break. On warmer days at idle stuck in traffic the temp has gone to 195 at 700rpms.
But if you rev the engine to 2000rpms it goes back to 190 in less than a minute, so it’s very efficient.
Driving temps for me are always in the 190 range. My hottest spike was 195 at idle with Ac on stuck
in traffic for 30 minutes going no where.

The Toyota heads are made of aluminum with a cast iron block.
To much heat to the aluminum heads means a blown head gasket from running
your engine to hot.

If your engine is running hot get it fixed ASAP


For 200.00 it’s a bargain!!!

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/champion-radiator-aluminum-3-core-swap-3-4-supercharger.543859/

 

My temps have been running similar to yours after I recently had an engine swap done. I finally got around to checking my thermostat today. The one that was put in with the new motor was a 180, but while it was apart I put in a 170 just for peace of mind and how cheap it was. After letting it idle for a while and the heat on full blast it idled at 186. Driving around for a while this afternoon I’m now getting temps of 194-197. Low side at 190/192 with the high side at 199. All of this is running conventional green, and without the a/c on. Hope to have my a/c fixed this week and the temp ranges remain the same.

 

I also put in a 170 and my temps sounds very similar, does anyone know why my temps rose after putting in a cooler rated thermostat? Temps will spike to 208 when idling in traffic

 

Jigger valve was at 6 o'clock or 12 oclock

 

I made sure my jiggle valve was at 6 o’clock, and I’m actually experiencing cooler temps at idle (around 188 without a/c on) than I am running down the highway (avg around 195)

 

juggle valve is at 6, i get cooler temps with the AC on, only due to the fan spinning faster. at idle it will rise to 201 and stop but my avg driving temp is 194-192 on freeway

 

Loving the new radiator,
93 degrees outside
AC on
20 mpg
Radiator temp 188 degrees
Thumbs ups

 

There are two fan clutches for the 3.4, the heavy duty one, the tow package fan clutch, which I believe engages sooner and probably keeps the engine cooler than the stock fan clutch.
The tow fan clutch is painted green on the hub that connects to the engine/pulley.
FYI

 

Well mine is green, i might just get a flex fan i honestly dont like the whole clutch design. im in Phoenix so im trying to do everything in my power to keep from overheating in the middle of the desert when i make lake trips

 

Ok
There are 4 items to look at if your running hot

1) radiator
2) thermostat
3) fan clutch, green hub one is the heavy duty
4) fan blade
5) shroud

If any of these are defective the motor will run hot,
When I repacked my motor at 480,000 I installed a new heavy duty fan clutch and a
new fan blade.

My old fan blade was warped to hell compared to the new one.
I was not having heat issues but if the fan blade is warped the pitch will be out of wack

 

That makes sense, my blade is definitely beaten up a bit and my shroud has been held together by zip ties since i bought the truck. maybe its time to get a new one from a junker

 

Some may find this irrelevant, but my Mazdaspeed6 radiator fan doesn't come on until 217. Programmed that way from the factory.

 

3.4 motor has cast iron block and Aluminum heads, expansion from heat is different for the 2 types of metals, Aluminum will warp before cast iron and that’s why there are so many blown head gaskets.
Most from over heating.
It’s best to keep the heat range in the lower numbers if possible

 

I wonder now if i have a blown head gasket, my ultragauge shows me i have a peak of 145 horsepower but im wondering if thats at the flywheel or the wheels