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3.4 overheating

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Vannz85, Aug 6, 2019.

  1. Aug 6, 2019 at 5:05 PM
    #1
    Vannz85

    Vannz85 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    3.4 swap
    I have a 1985 4Runner with a freshly re built 3.4 installed.
    New water pump installed with re build.
    New Champion 3 core radiator (fits the 85 mounts)
    New clutch fan
    New fan
    Toyota factory t-stat.
    runs great and cool down hill.(I have installed aftermarket digital gauge and it shows as low as 150 down hill on hot days) Factory gauge rides in the middle at this time
    Uphill, it gets hot 206-221. Sustained uphills will see 220-230 especially at lower rpm and at 55 or greater.
    Installed a .9 cap and got boil over. installed a 1.1 cap and no boil over but still raising temps.
    I have had the hydrocarbon test performed and none.
    Installed a modified fan shroud to allow the larger fan blades of the 99 motor with the space of the 85.
    Also a note, I tried drilling extra holes in the t stat in case of air bubbles.
    I have burped the system on an incline with heater on as well.
    Anything Im missing?
    Seems to get hot at freeway speeds on flat ground as well at lower rpm's.
    H
    E
    L
    P
     
  2. Aug 6, 2019 at 7:25 PM
    #2
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    The OEM thermostat for the 3.4L has to be installed with the jiggle valve at the 6 o'clock position, contrary to the common position of 12 o'clock for the bubbler. It's been tested and shown to run 10+ degrees hotter when installed incorrectly. Do you know if your thermostat is correctly installed?
     
    JJ04TACO likes this.
  3. Aug 6, 2019 at 7:27 PM
    #3
    Vannz85

    Vannz85 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    It is installed in the 6 position plus 3 extra holes drilled at this time
     
    cruiserguy likes this.
  4. Aug 6, 2019 at 7:37 PM
    #4
    knayrb

    knayrb Well-Known Member

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    You’ve been pretty thorough in your effort but you didn’t mention if the T stat is verified not in backwards. Your symptoms are similar to that. It would open enough when no stress like downhill but wouldn’t get enough flow to cool when uphill. You could even try running without a T stat to eliminate that issue.
     
  5. Aug 6, 2019 at 7:38 PM
    #5
    Vannz85

    Vannz85 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Spring towards block
     
  6. Aug 6, 2019 at 7:59 PM
    #6
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Did it run cool/normal before the rebuild? I see it's a swap into an 85? Is the engine positioned properly to the shroud/radiator for maximum efficiency?
     
  7. Aug 6, 2019 at 8:17 PM
    #7
    Vannz85

    Vannz85 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Not sure of condition of motor other than it had just shy of 200k
    Fan sits inside of shroud and looks to be in the correct position
     
  8. Aug 6, 2019 at 8:19 PM
    #8
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Have you ever seen it run without getting hot?
    I'm trying to figure out where we're starting here, that's all. You've provided great details by the way, definitely helps the internet troubleshooting to have as much info/details as possible
     
    TacomaJunkie8691 likes this.
  9. Aug 6, 2019 at 8:24 PM
    #9
    Vannz85

    Vannz85 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Cool, need all the help I can get. Ran warm ever since I’ve gotten it back from the build. Runs good in the winter.
    I also have a Warn power plant winch in front of the grill??
    There is also a power steering cooler that was mounted directly to the radiator but now is moved 2” toward the front of grill mounted with brackets.
    Do you think the 3 core radiator is dropping coolant to fast?
     
  10. Aug 6, 2019 at 8:32 PM
    #10
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Cool thanks for the extra lil bit of info.
    The engine resides on the frame/in the engine bay as it did before the rebuild?
    So you're positive all the air is out of the system? Have you actually seen/put eyes and ran with the radiator cap off to see the coolant circulate and see that has good strong flow?
    Accessories or other things positioned in front of the radiator like the winch can definitely affect air flow
     
  11. Aug 6, 2019 at 8:34 PM
    #11
    Vannz85

    Vannz85 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    It seems to flow good
    I should see a good stream flowing through the top when the t stay opens, correct?
     
  12. Aug 6, 2019 at 8:40 PM
    #12
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Yep.
    Touched the lower radiator hose to make sure the radiator is actually cooling the coolant properly? Is the coolant getting too hot in the block for some issue/defect or is the radiator not transferring enough heat out of the coolant for some reason?
     
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  13. Aug 6, 2019 at 8:42 PM
    #13
    Vannz85

    Vannz85 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I’m not sure if this helps, but in the winter, the rig runs often at 140-150°
     
  14. Aug 6, 2019 at 8:48 PM
    #14
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    It never warms up? Like running without a thermostat?
     
  15. Aug 6, 2019 at 8:49 PM
    #15
    Vannz85

    Vannz85 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yup
    That’s what it seems like
     
  16. Aug 6, 2019 at 8:58 PM
    #16
    gmr102

    gmr102 Well-Known Member

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    T-stat is verified to be working? It's not sticking closed or open? 140-150 seems super cold for a 3.4 to run even in winter.
     
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  17. Aug 6, 2019 at 8:59 PM
    #17
    Vannz85

    Vannz85 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I will replace tomorrow
    This time, no added holes
     
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  18. Aug 6, 2019 at 9:04 PM
    #18
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Oh shit yeah that's right, I forgot about the thermostat mod. Yeah that's why it doesn't warm up in winter
     
  19. Aug 6, 2019 at 9:06 PM
    #19
    Vannz85

    Vannz85 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Anything to do with the overheating you think?
     
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  20. Aug 6, 2019 at 9:11 PM
    #20
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Yeah that's what kinda gave me a bit of pause from responding right right away, I was typing and I had think that out and reword it as to not imply it could be the cause of the overheating as well. Just because I don't know. You would think it wouldn't, right? But man I also wouldn't have thought the jiggle valve would go in at 6 o'clock. Know what I mean?
     
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