3.4 spark plugs?

Holy crap I have been the tune up guy for my gal's '87 Toyota Celica GTS with the 1st-gen 3SGE and have never once in its 31 year life ever used anti-seize. The head's "aluminum alloy". What-are the heads in our 3.4 straight aluminum? Also I never used a torque wrench-I just snugged them then did a half-turn final. Never had a problem.

 

I am not trying to be nasty and am not upset, just felt it is worth comment. You provided an excellent link with dissenting commenters who agree to use Anti Seize in spite of ? ND the maker of spark plugs Suzuki dealerships had to throw in the trash and install NGK prior to selling new vehicles says no thread lubricant. The NGK link did not open, but I have many browser settings on lock-down as another 30 year Profession was Data Connectivity and Internet Protocol Troubleshooting / Diagnosis and Protection.

I agree and do not use Grease or oil on Spark plugs as it is junk that will not last or prevent galvanic corrosion. I had a hippie friend who argued with me that for his VW he used oil which I said was worthless doing nothing to prevent the damage Anti Seize was engineered to prevent and is used by all industries. Hell, I've even got friends that argue with me about not needing to warm and engine although I was trained by a Chemical engineer in Base Oil Products and Molecular Copolymer Bonding Agents to create Multi Grade Oil, Viscosity and the effects of temperature and contaminants on its effectiveness. But to each his own, why should they believe me when I only know what the manufacture taught me in person Did they say not to prevent galvanic corrosion by not using Anti Seize? I could not find that mentioned on their website. Perhaps because it is known common knowledge that you use it or choose not to at your own peril risking ruining the aluminum spark plug threads in your cylinder head.

Thread lubricant is for torquing non spark plug threads and certainly will not be used on threads which use Loctite liquid thread lock Red, Blue, Green. Yes valid torque measurements are made only with properly lubricated threads, but I do not believe I suggested or at least insist now that no one uses lubricant on spark plugs. The goal is to be able to remove your plugs. That is why I stipulated Anti Seize is also for Wheel Lug Nut Studs and Exhaust Manifold nut studs. Feel free to run those dry also and perhaps I can come back and explain the proper procedure for replacing broken Exhaust Studs or Wheel Studs. However, since I have only done that for customers who do not believe in science and utilizing the best products available to prevent thread damage I have never in my life had to do those repairs for myself. You know because I use a galvanic corrosion dissimilar metal anti Galling compound on the parts that need it in spite of opinion that contradicts 100 years of known facts. No links here, I am willing to write off the top of my head because I type 65wpm (best 1/4 semester high school class I ever took was typing as it lasts a lifetime) but too lazy to do research to prove what every paid professional already knows as facts. If you look up Galvanic corrosion it will help you to realize the difference between a recommendation to not coat a spark plug in oil and what you can do for the rest of your life for a $38.00 investment never having to replace damaged parts that are due to improper maintenance no matter who told you my opinion is junk science. Personally when you see it is avoidable and has been an issue for 150 years it is foolish to think damaged wheel studs are acceptable or that manufactures of aircraft grade fasteners and measuring tools don't know as much as bloggers. Anti Seize compound is not a thread lubricant as much as a high temperature protection against galvanic corrosion and damage so I fully endorse your personal freedom to not use what works or Professional advice. It is your life to live and there is no better way to learn something than to fail hard enough to never forget. That is why I threw in to load the chip relief slots in the tool with grease so you can try and catch a percentage of metal fragments if you choose to use a helicoil tap without removing your cylinder head for that spark plug repair. Hell, I'll throw out another piece of advice. Never remove a spark plug without first blowing out the surrounding opening with compressed air until it is completely devoid of foreign dirt and other objects that will fall in the opening.

 

Your method for tightening is ok, but it might be more of 1/8 turn if tapered seats whereas 1/2 might be closer for a crush gasket like they used to use years ago. Which of course should be replaced when reinstalled. Our plugs have a tapered seat and there is a tool at Auto Zone for under $15 that is called a torque angle gauge. It measures the amount of turn after initial non torqued seating. In spite of the spark plug disagreement it really can't hurt you to own the paste for a lifetime of wheel nuts that can be removed and the possibility of actually removing an exhaust header without breaking the studs off from the always present rust.

 

Thanks for that. Ironically, I leave the tune-ups on my Tacoma to the dealer since it requires so few, and Rose's Celica is so easy to do that I just do that one myself. And she barely puts 1000 mile a year on it since we go everywhere in my two vehicles.

 

Look at the pix earlier in the thread, those are crush washers, and came from ”our” engines, 3.4L V6 even the 4.0L uses crush washers.
Taper seat plugs are used mostly in iron heads, GM heads most specifically.

I work on a multitude of different machines the only issues I have with spark plugs are machines where the thread barrel protrudes into the combustion chamber.. have yet to have a plug seize in aluminum or iron head other than some ham fist has jammed a plug into the hole and made it fit. And I work on some very diverse and dirty machines.

 

Sure enough, What you say is correct about the plugs and I was clearly talking out by butt. I appreciate being corrected as I stopped commuting over 10 years ago and instead of filling the Taco tank every 3 days it is closer to once a month. The reason I came here was concerning the plug part of my prep for a Smog Check and passed on the plugs with less than 30k miles of use opting for 3 never replaced Coils and a set of NGK wires. last done 95k miles previous. Seems wrong that I see tapered plug seats in my memory considering the last vehicle I ever owned with them was a 1986 Ford Escort over 30 years ago. I Imagine although I have ultra platinum whatever top of the line plugs they probably should go also considering their a minimum of 10 years old. Apologizes to misinforming ridgerunner, but he will know if he has crush gaskets when he installs them. I wonder how may people who swear off of anti seize who have removed and replaced those type plugs and not replaced the gaskets which would invalidate all credibility of opinion. I have seen plugs which don't enter the chamber enough but past the end of threads I can only imagine would be from installing a single helicoil where more than one was needed. I've seen that way back in the 2 plug 2 stroke days. I talk a lot of crap but the Anti Seize is a lifesaver on wheel studs where it gets the most use. Run a lug nut on an off enough and if its hot it is about to gall so I stand by that recommendation, plus having Sheffield (alignment Dog Tipped) studs like they use in Racing. Besides the fact my first exposure to Anti Seize was from a Baja 1000 winner, my employer who insisted I use it before actually just reading the canister myself and knowing it is a mistake to not use it where it was designed for.

 

If you use antiseize, wear old clothing.....and gloves......and don't touch your face after applying.

 

The plugs that go in Rose's '87 Celica GTS do have crush gaskets. Because I have never done my own plugs in my Tacoma I had no idea if those have crush gaskets till blkvoodoo said so in post #45-so you actually did not mis-inform me at all

 

My last set of ngk plugs will be the last I ever buy. The plug on cylinder 3 had the diode break off inside the cylinder. I had to put a new motor in a 275k never broke it open to see what actually happened inside but it was nasty. Bought a new block and built it up from there.

I called ngk and they didn’t have much to say besides it’s not our problem.

 

HMMM. so DONT use anti seize? Aslo advise me on what the best spark plug replacements would be for Tacoma Prerunner SR% 3.4 VTRD package?

 

from page 1 see originals pictured as

$18 Denso K16TR11 Spark Plugs, Pack of 4

Denso K16TR11 for the dual electrode, those are the ones I'm trying tmrw on my friends truck. We installed some new single electrode AC-Delcos I think, same as we pulled out, I told him to grab 6 of them, not doing my do diligence.... Truck doesn't like it at all, now sputtering under load feels like total miss fire. Whelp, gotta love TW know how! Lets try some Denso dual electrodes!!!

 

thanks! will do

 

I have nevet heard of using antiseize on plugs. Only using dielectric grease on the threads and the top part where the boot touches and where the electrode pushes on.. no matter what kind of plug or what kind of motor its never a bad idea to use it.. cant hurt anything. I dunno why the complete history and life story had to be told on the subject but stuff will get overtorqued either way if the installer isnt on top of things.. most of the time as long as the wrench is seated all the way on the fastener and is being tightened at a correct angle not to stress the fastener or threads then the general tightness can be felt by the installer. Usually to a pretty close margin to the spec. Head bolts are different ad you stretch those and youd have to have some big balls or not care about the job if not using a torque wrench, otherwise tightening by feel has always worked for me. Actually damn near every time ive tried to use a torque wrench on bolts where it really wasent necessary, i ended up snapping a bolt off, like every time.. dunno why but did.. never waited the proper time on gasket maker either.. never did the whole kinda fasten then wait 20 to fasten to spec.. i just squeegee it on, wait 5 mins or a cigarette worth then slap it on and torque to spec then,, and unless its on an oil pan i start the motor as soon as its back together.. lol. Thats just me tho and im not working on anything thats worth more than ten or 20 grand.. so never too worried of any tesla lambo spec type crap.