3.4 Supercharger help needed (02 tacoma)

Hello again TW,

I have yet returned for more advice. Except this time its with a new mod (TRD Supercharger)
It was installed by a highly recommended mechanic (me) and since I don't have a lot of experience I may have over looks something. I will do my best to explain everything I did up to this point and hopefully find a fix to my problem.
So from the beginning:

I first rebuilt the S/C with the following kit:
#STDSNOUTKIT03-V - (Kit includes 2 OEM quality C3 fit high speed ball
bearings, 1 premium nose seal, 1 tube of Permatex anaerobic gasket sealant
and 2 bottles of GM supercharger oil)(I got the high performance Viton)
#INRBRG - (Bearings inside the supercharger housing that your rotors ride on.
They are sold as a pair of two prepacked with grease and for install)
#SCCOUPLER - (Upgraded coupler made of a special oil impregnated nylon for
long life and excellent chemical resistance)

Install the S/C in accordance to bellow image:
New factory intake gasket 17176-62040
Check Value PTR29-60031 (triple checked to make sure its pointed in the correct direction. Air goes out from throttle body but not in)
Throttle body gasket PTR29-60030
URD 2.2 pulley


Fuel mods:
Fuel Injector 23250-46031(305cc)
NGK Spark Plug BCPR7ET 2164 (Gapped at .035)(3 prongs spark plug)
Walbro 190 LPH pump kit from URD


A few things to note: 2k mile back I installed a new set of Spark Plug Wires prior to installing of the S/C there were no engine codes. Also during the install all vacuum lines lined up correctly. I did have to get an extended vacuum line for the fuel presser regulator and vacuum throttle opener as they ended up being short.

Problem / Questions
1.) Check engine codes: ̶P̶0̶3̶0̶0̶ & P0306
The first code came within 5 minutes of the truck running (P0306)
The second code came on after about 5 miles during test run
However at this time I didn't have the Walbro fuel pump installed. After installing the fuel pump and clearing the codes only P0306 came back.

2.) With the 2.2 pulley and fuel mods do I need to run a piggy back ecu? When talking URD they gave me 2 options that would work for my set up according to their info. Looking for 1st hand experience / recommendation on which would work best for my truck. Leaning towards the second option as its easier on the money...lol
Opt#1: https://www.urdusa.com/map-ecu3-fuel-and-ignition-control-universal/
Opt#2: https://www.urdusa.com/urd-mass-air-flow-fuel-timing-calibrator/

3.) Was looking over my work area where I rebuilt my SC and found this bolt/crew. Anyone knows where it goes?
My priority right now is to find the cause of the misfire in cylinder 6 (P0306). It is my daily driver and I need it to be reliable. Right now it idles rough. Seems to straighten out when moving but still has some hesitation. It hasn't stalled out on me yet but sounded like it was getting close at one point, this was before the fuel pump install. With fuel pump installed it seems like it works maybe slightly better.\ but hard to tell.
I plan to do the following in order to eliminate the problem (correct me if I should do it in any other order)
- Clean MAF sensor
- Swap out spark plug with another to see if misfire moves
- Swap ignition coils to see if misfire moves
- Check spark plug wire resistance
- Swap out injector to see if misfire moves
- Sell the S/C and go back to stock N/A

8/11 Update: the code has been cleared, turned out to be a faulty injector. Had to do a bunch of trouble shooting but narrowed it down.

 

Here are some picture from the installation

 

Sorry man wish I could help more than what was posted in the other thread, but I'll tag a few guys on here that are knowledgable with the 3.4l and boost

@1997tacomav6 @Blackdawg @Speedytech7 @drr

It's good the P0300 code was cleared at least, I can't say for sure where that missing bolt goes since I haven't installed the blower setup myself (PO did)

 

At this point, removing the S/C may not fix the missfire. Did you run any WOT runs? If you've been just driving it, the missfire is more than likely not related to the S/C or something you did during installation. Just having a S/C bolted on (assuming its hooked up correctly) wont change the engine dynamic so much as to cause issues when daily driving. It will cause damage if your fuel delivery and tune is off when running boost.

If you went out and hooned around without proper fuel delivery and/or tune, you may have had a pre-detonation that caused internal damage. Given that you don't have a broken crank or connecting rod, you may have blow the head gasket.

However, it could be as simple as accidentally knocking the wire off cylinder 3 ignition coil that runs to cylinder 6. Check to make sure that the wire that runs to cyl 6 plug is seated properly on the coil on cylinder 3.

 

Thanks man, anything helps

 

I don't know where that screw goes but it doesn't look like anything Ive pulled off the 5VZ, probably goes to the S/C somewhere.

 

I'm more then sure the engine it self is fine. The misfire was something that came due to rough idle from before even driving it. On first fire up its started from second crank. No loud or out of ordinary sounds.
I did swap in new spark plugs and injectors which one of them could possibly be faulty. As far as driving it, the truck evens out and works quite which makes me think it could be a fuel denervation.

 

If it missfires at startup but then smooths out its a bad head gasket or leaky fuel injector. Usually its a bad head gasket.

 

Compression check cylinder 6 to verify if it's holding compression. If it check out, might be injector leaking or dripping instead of misting. Or could be the spark plug wire feeding the cylinder 6 plug being bad.

 

8PCS Professional Tester Test Kit Cylinder Compression Gas Engine Set Automotive Tool Gauge for Car & Truck

https://www.amazon.com/Professional...ocphy=9008491&hvtargid=pla-455606420563&psc=1

 

If head gasket was bad wouldn’t it have a leak on the side of the block somewhere?

 

I don't think so, that's the valve cover gasket I believe you're thinking of

What gets me is that this didn't start until right after the s/c install right? Hard to imagine you had a head gasket leak show symptoms like that right after you put the s/c on but not before.

 

It would leak into your cylinder. When you start it, the coolant will cause missfire until it burns off or is blown out the exhaust. Similar with leaky injector. Gas will pool on intake valves and at startup the cylinder will be too rich for proper detonation causing missfires until the gas burns off. More often than not, its a leaky head gasket.

 

This would cause white smoke out the back tho right?

 

Not always. My wifes van had two cylinders misfire due to warped head and coolant getting into the cylinders but no smoke

 

So you installed a bigger fuel pump and larger injectors, but no way to control them? I wouldn’t expect that it’s fueling any better than it was with the stock setup. Especially with the 2.2” pulley, you need a piggyback or standalone ECU. Recommend that you not operate at WOT until that’s addressed.

I’ve also never heard of using those spark plugs. What is the heat range? You want a slightly cooler heat range than stock, generally multi ground plugs are hot.

No idea what that screw is from, don’t think it’s from anything on the blower.

 

Should I go down to stock pulley and see if it makes a difference?
and the spark plugs are 2 steps cooler then stock. I found a few guys running them online without any problems and decided to give it them a try.

Also I do still drive the truck but I haven't gone over 35mph.
Engine temps are normal and haven't tried giving it full throttle.

 

Do a compression test. We can think up a billion different theories online but until we get to testing we're just whistling in the wind.

 

Don't get any urd crap. It's outdated and urds support sucks.

Get an aem fic6. It'll tune way better than the urd stuff and is cheaper.

 

I think I’m getting closer. Just got done with a few things to narrow down the issue.
- Cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor
- Remover cylinder #6 spark plug. It looks like it didn’t even ignite. All the other spark plugs I checked are definitely working. Here is a picture of it:

The rest look like this:

I tried swapping the spark plug to cylinder #2 and nothing changed. Same check engine code. Removed the spark plug from cylinder #2 and it’s working fine. While I was removing the spark plug wired from cylinder #2 I ended up tearing off the end of the cheap spark plug wire. Ran down to Auto parts stor and got a new set. Cleared the code and still P0306 comes on. Last thing I did was swap the cylinder #1 and cylinder #3 coil packs. Put it back together, cleared the code and code came back.

So at this point it can only be 1 of 2 things
1.) fuel injector isn’t working, which I’m leaning more toward because the spark plug didn’t smell like fuel at all.
Or 2.) low compression

I’m all out of time for today. Will probably have to postpone removing the supercharger to check the injector until the weekend. Same for compression test which I will probably do last.