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3.4 Tune-up Recommendations

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Tyler Andrews, May 13, 2013.

  1. May 13, 2013 at 9:41 PM
    #1
    Tyler Andrews

    Tyler Andrews [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys. I'm looking to do my first "at home" tune-up for my 3.4l ext. cab. It has 167,000 miles on the odometer, so I'm really looking for some suggestions from others who have high mileage on their Yotas. Summer is around the corner too, so a tune-up will be good for the higher temperatures and more driving I am going to be doing. As far as the tune-up is concerned, I'm looking to change the:

    -air filter, and do the deckplate mod at the same time
    -engine oil/filter
    -spark plugs
    -coolant?

    Kind of new at all this, so open for suggestions on what is best to replace these fluids and parts with, especially being I have high mileage. Thanks guys!
     
  2. May 13, 2013 at 10:26 PM
    #2
    MEDICDUDE423

    MEDICDUDE423 Well-Known Member

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    Matt
    East TN
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    NGK-Iridium plugs if you have the cash, you will get better burn off and a little extra mileage of of those

    coolant : toyota RED pure from the dealer and use 1 gallon then 1 gallon of distilled water
     
  3. May 13, 2013 at 10:29 PM
    #3
    Mr. Biscuits

    Mr. Biscuits gentleman and a scholar

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    Brennen
    Eugene, OR
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    - OME 881s, Dakars + D43XL - Custom front tube bumper - 33x10.5R15 BFG KO2s - Deckplate mod + Airaid intake tube + AFE reusable air filter - Aero Turbine 2525 exhaust, chopped before leaf spring - Toyota Horns emblem by Diaz Fabrication - BOSS CarPlay head unit, 500W amp + 12" Pioneer in ported box - camper shell
    Do a full synthetic swap, seafoam cleanse, and clean the MAF
     
  4. May 14, 2013 at 6:50 AM
    #4
    Alderleet

    Alderleet Ace of Spades

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    Salty Hell
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    Heres a good list:

    Change spark plugs
    Change spark Plug wires
    Add some BG engine flush to crankcase, then change oil (BG engine flush is at Napa, they dont keep it out front cause its a heavy duty item)
    Change front/rear diff, transfer case, and tranny fluid.
    Flush out coolant
    Clean MAF Sensor
    Clean IAC Valve
    Clean Butterfly Valve on throttle body
    Change EGR valve (its probably gross as hell) (toyota dealership item. Includes new rubber gasket too)
    Add some redline SI-1 to your fuel (highest PEA content, 2-3x content of techron)(oriellys has is)
    Change your fuel filter (additives will loosen all the garbage floating in your tank. It will probably clog it)
    Change your O2 sensors
    Check your belts, Change them if need be.
    Check your valve cover for leaks. Clean with deagreaser, and re-tighten to 12ft/lbs if theres a bit of oil dribbling out.
    Grease your Zerk fittings on your driveshaft
    Check your brakes, see how they are wearing.
    Flush old brake fluid
    If you've never changed your hosing, it might be a good time to poke around and look for cracks. I replaced all of my vacuum hosing, out of sheer paranoia.
    check your ball joints, see if they have play. Check tie rod ends also.
    Check your CV axle boots. Are they cracked?


    Thats my yearly/6mo list of things I take a look at. I plan on making my tacoma a 1/2 Mil mile vehicle, at bare minimum.
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2013
  5. May 14, 2013 at 7:12 AM
    #5
    TACO TX

    TACO TX Well-Known Member

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    Weather tech liners, Ranch Sierra truck cap
  6. May 14, 2013 at 12:48 PM
    #6
    Tyler Andrews

    Tyler Andrews [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Quite an extensive list, but definitely needed. Recommendations for brands to get on fluids and parts? How regularly do you change your fuel filter? Isn't that something that doesn't get changed as regularly as say your oil filter?
     
  7. May 14, 2013 at 12:54 PM
    #7
    Sittingbull2

    Sittingbull2 Old N.R.A. Hippy

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    Southeast texas
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    3" Body lift, ARB Front Bumper w/9000 lb. Warn Winch, Chevy Alum. Rims w/ Kelly 285's M/S
    I would change out fuel filter at least every 30,000 miles. That keeps your injectors lasting longer with a fuel filter change
    . just my .02

    Sitiingbull2
     
  8. May 14, 2013 at 1:39 PM
    #8
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    Toyota says the fuel filter is a lifetime part. Never understood how a filter doesn't need replacing.

    WIX fuel filters recommend changing them every 12,000 miles. That might be a bit excessive.
     
  9. May 14, 2013 at 6:36 PM
    #9
    TACO TX

    TACO TX Well-Known Member

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    I replaced with Wix couple years ago, no problems. I only use toyota red coolant and type 4 tranny fluid. Just a couple drain and fills will do. Switched diffs and transfer case to mobile one as well as engine oil w/Wix filter as well. NGK dual electrode plugs. The link i posted has pretty good info and use the search option here to find how to's like flushing radiator and drain and fill tranny as well as diffs and transfer case.
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2013
  10. May 14, 2013 at 7:18 PM
    #10
    sportsterchop200

    sportsterchop200 Well-Known Member

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    OME 881, Bilstein 5100 @ 0", OME 10mm JK spacer, Stock rear on 265/70-16
    OEM Toyota part numbers:
    Coolant 00272-ILLAC-01 AKA "Coolant Red"
    Spark Plugs 90919-01192 (Denso #K16TR11) $2.26
    Air filter 17801-07020 $15.95
    Oil Filter 90915-YZZD3 $3.89
    Front Brake Pads 04465-04050 $63.18
    Rear brake shoes 04495-35250 $72.70
    Fuel Filter 23300-62010 $27.12
    Trans Filter 35330-60030 $40.21

    Above OEM prices are through Camelback Toyota listed in the vendor section. Best prices and service I have found contact Jorge.

    NGK 4412 Plug wires $27.56 shipped on Ebay

    Change all additional fluids: trans ATF fluid, f diff 75w-90, r diff 75W-90, t-case 75w-90 for automatics, brake fluid DOT 3 or 4 and power steering fluid which uses ATF also.

    Im switching out to all Amsoil there is a guy on here who sells it for cost in the group buy or forsale section but it seems to be better to buy it directley from them through their prefered buyer program. I'll give you my reference number if you want or you can contact "Nick" in the other section, he helped me out.
     
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  11. May 14, 2013 at 7:38 PM
    #11
    TACO TX

    TACO TX Well-Known Member

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    There is great debate on the so called tranny filter which is actually only a screen that toyota says doest need jacking with. If the pan isn't leaking don't mess with it. Just drain the 5 quarts and replace. Hell my dipstick says it doesn't need maint at all under normal driving conditions. But i did drain and fill and felt difference right off the bat. Shifts alot smoother and better. My motor had 3 denso plugs and 3 NGK plugs so i just went with NGK's. oh and grease the zerks on your drife shaft.
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2013
  12. May 14, 2013 at 7:48 PM
    #12
    sportsterchop200

    sportsterchop200 Well-Known Member

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    OME 881, Bilstein 5100 @ 0", OME 10mm JK spacer, Stock rear on 265/70-16
    What he said for the trans filter but if you drop the pan you might as well change in my opinion.

    X2 on the drive shaft. Search "greased my drive shaft" for more info.
    X9,437 on the MAS and TB clean
     
  13. Jul 26, 2018 at 9:44 AM
    #13
    Bigbuster

    Bigbuster New Member

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    Hey Alderleet, where are the cv boots on my tacoma??
     
  14. Jul 26, 2018 at 10:14 AM
    #14
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    Just search for the Toyota maintenance schedule and work from that.

    Basically, lube everything that moves... If you've never looked at or replaced your suspension/steeering bushings, now might be a good time. If your shocks and springs (front and rear) are original, might consider these, too... At least shocks.

    Inspect your CVs and boots if you're a 4x4. If boots are cracked/leaking, replace or rebuilt them.

    Toyota does not have a regular schedule for replacing trany fluid (it's more of an "as needed" thing). But if that makes you feel better, do it.

    Similar to the trany fluid, there's no real need to change your coolant either, unless it has become discolored. If it's discolored, that's usually a sign of something else wrong, so best to address that, rather than just changing the coolant.

    As for oil and filters, those should be part of a normal maintenance routine (not just tune-ups) so hopefully you're doing those more regularly anyway...

    Other things:
    clean MAF sensor, throttle body
    plugs and wires
    Lower balljoints
    3.4L = timing belt, usually about a 90,000 mile replacement interval... No real damage since it's a non-interference engine, so really, you'll just be stranded somewhere if it breaks. Some people go over 200k easy with an original belt, but IMO are pushing their luck...
     
    CloudBreaker6842 likes this.
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