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3 install issues

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by darrmill, Jul 11, 2011.

  1. Jul 11, 2011 at 5:46 AM
    #1
    darrmill

    darrmill [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Pop N Lock, Weathertechs, Viper remote starter, Intermittent wiper switch, devil horns, Access rollup tonneau, Wet Okoles, Rocky Mounts, EGR vent guards
    With so many good directions out there, I thought I'd take a run at completing my own install. Here are the three issues I ran into that I could use some advice on.

    By the way, for context, I was installing a Kenwood DDX616, backup camera, HD radio, SWI-JACK steering controls, Sound Ordnance B-8PT sub, Kenwood component speakers up front, and regular Kenwoods in the back. My truck is a 2011 Double Cab.

    1. The B-8PT is getting power but turns off as soon as it turns on. I put it in the plastic storage behind the back passenger seat. I grounded it to a screw I drilled into the metal down behind the seat and to the right of the storage plastic.
    2. The SWI-JACK registers the "8" I'm supposed to set it to but the steering wheel controls do not work. I get the 8 LED flashes in return to initial setup. Am I supposed to program each button from there? I thought setting it to 8 was all that was needed.
    3. My front door speakers. I replaced the upper and lower speakers with component speakers connected via the crossover cabling they came with. No sound. Leaving everything as is, I plugged the old upper into the original harness adapter. All of the speakers in that door now worked. It's almost like there's a trip in the harness that makes sure all the adapters are plugged in. Any advice? I don't want to leave the original upper dangling in there.

    Thanks, in advance, for taking the time to read my post and for any feedback you're able to provide. I probably bit off more than I could chew for a first stereo replacement, but I feel like I did pretty well and got close.
     
  2. Jul 11, 2011 at 7:30 AM
    #2
    dolbytone

    dolbytone Well-Known Member

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    1. Maybe it turns off when it doesn't see any signal?

    2. Yes you still have to go through programming the buttons on the steering wheel. It's a sequential program thing, so if you mess up you have to start over.

    3. I ran new wire for this and everyone I know with a Tacoma that has installed components uses and amplifier so I don't know what to say about the factory harness. What happens when you use the upper wiring harness as the crossover input?
     
  3. Jul 11, 2011 at 11:01 AM
    #3
    sun

    sun Well-Known Member

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    Pioneer avic-z130bt with axxess aswc and rear cam mod, audiovox 10 flip down monitor, Pyle pl76d headrest monitors, kicker cvr tens wired down to one ohm with hifonics Brutus 1200.1, Clazzio seat covers, 20% tint on front windows, polished factory exhaust, peragon retractable bed cover, pop n lock tailgate handle with dei actuators for automatic lock, viper 5901 alarm remote start with viper smart start, hid bixenon 4500k headlights with 4500k fog lights, led map license plate lights and dome lights
    the swi jack unfortnately from my experience you have to program ever control ive been using axxes aswc its so much easier to install... and as far as the sub not working im not sure how do you have ur radio wired up? and the speakers i dont know yet i have decided to change my out yet
     
  4. Jul 12, 2011 at 5:22 AM
    #4
    darrmill

    darrmill [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Vehicle:
    11 MGM DC SB
    Pop N Lock, Weathertechs, Viper remote starter, Intermittent wiper switch, devil horns, Access rollup tonneau, Wet Okoles, Rocky Mounts, EGR vent guards
    Updates:
    I got the SWI-JACK working by following the additional steps. Thanks.

    I called Crutchfield regarding the sub. They suggest it could be the remote wire. We tested it to a full 12v and have it connected to the blue "P Cont" wire off the back of the HU. Will mess with that one some more tonight.

    Regarding the speakers, it turns out the OEM wiring is a little different. The main wiring goes to the upper speaker first and then to the lower speaker. Crutchfield doesn't carry a harness that plugs into the upper harness port. So we have to hardwire from the upper OEM connector to the new woofer and then use the crossover cabling back up to the new tweeter. Crutchfield seemed surprised and provided me with incorrect equipment. Thought I'd post this in case someone else ran into the same thing.
     
  5. Sep 16, 2011 at 4:43 PM
    #5
    eyball

    eyball Well-Known Member

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    Extang Tri-Fecta Tonneau cover, Westin nerf bars, K&N intake, OEM roof rack.
    You can also leave the top tweeter connector in place & cut the tweeter off after the 4 wires come together. The splitter part is after the connector that's why when you remove it you loose power.
     
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