3" Lift with 33's without the use of Wheel Spacers

Both are on Toytec's website. Just the shocks or the whole kit?

 

I have Icon coilovers and Icon rear shocks, camburg UCAs and a 1 1/2 add a leaf in the rear. I run 33/12.5/17 general grabber MTs, my wheels are centerline 17x8 @ 4.5 backspacing. I had to do very minimal trimming and did not have to do a cab mount chop. I also have alteast an inch left on the coil overs.

The lift is pretty close to 3 inches in the front.

But it wasn't the cheapest route out there.

 

I replaced both my front wheel bearings around 60-70k. I have only had stock rims and max 32" tires the whole life of the truck. Possibly it was just time for them to shit the bed and not a result of your tires/spacers.

 

Cambridge UCAs?

 

sorry camburg, was typing a little fast

 

I've got the pro comp 3" lift which pretty much is the cheapest way to go.

I didn't expect to much from it, since so many people put it down (especially on this site) but I've been very happy with it. I'm running 285/70/17's with a 4.53 back spaced rim.

I've already cut a lot of plastic out and I'm hitting the frame when I hit a bump while turning sharp. just a bit, but I'm going to do the frame chop here in the next 10 days or so. Should be good to go.
The reason I'm rubbing is because I have KM2's. I think I could have got a less aggressive tire and wouldn't have near as much rub.

 

Lots of good info here! Thanks for all the input. I just need to have one thing cleared up. In theory, running sport rims (5.5 backspacing) with a 1.25" spacer would accomplish the same thing as buying new rims with 4.25" bs?

 

I just finished installing the Bilstein Adjustable Lift Kit with 5100 shocks and LR UCA. In the rear, I did the 1.5 TSB AAL. Measuring the front from center hub to bottom fender I'm at 22.5", not a full 3" at 23". I have the C clipon the second adjustment from the bottom with the 1/2" spacer but still a 1/2" shy.

Toytec states, "3" average lift is achieved with coils and settingthe shock adjustment on the second C clip setting from the bottom, Double cab models may require top plate spacers for full 3" lift."

I understand it states "average" but if you take away the1/2" spacer I’d be a whole 1" off?

So after spending my hard earned money and time installing the lift I ordered rims and tires, 285 65 18 Toyo AT II on 18" ProComp 5001. Looks beautiful but rubs horrible when turned and going in reverse on the inside-back of the front fender. So bad it cracked it. My Friend is running the same set up but he kept the stock coil, put the C-clip on the top adjustment without new UCA and he rubs just a bit at full turn in reverse, not enough to notice.

What should I do, any advice?

 

What is the backspacing on your wheels. Are they stock or aftermarket. Optimal is 4.5" bs. Spidertrax wheel spacers on stock wheels will give you close to 4.5" bs. Less backspacing and your tire will stick out of the fender further and rub the wheel well plastic. More backspacing and your tire will be tucked in more but may rub the frame more. If you still rub after correcting backspacing, cut some plastic away and maybe cut the cab mount.

 

After taking a deep breath I realized the wheel, the tire shop Ordered me wasa 18x9.5, way to wide!

 

Wouldn't that just make them stick out even Further? I’ve narrowed down my decision to the ,

Procomp 7032, 18x9 00-Offset5-Backspacing

Stealth6, 17x8.5 Offset -10mm 4.3-Backspacing

I like the Stealth 6 wheels butt after talking to Vin from www.stealthcustomseries.com/‎,he said I’ll have to do a CMC. My Rig is pretty Knew I don’t want to startchopping away at shit. There’s a SCS Stealth 6 New 18" Wheel **Group Buy** for a , 18x9 00-Offset5-Backspacing. But who knows? That pretty much puts back to the Procomp?EEERRRRR…….