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30" Light Bar Install - Easier Than You Might Think

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by rysingsun, Dec 16, 2015.

  1. Dec 28, 2016 at 4:22 PM
    #281
    nwAdamR

    nwAdamR Well-Known Member

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    I have a hunch the relay built into the S8's wire harness is cutting power to the switch's backlights when the switch is activated/pushed. Is the relay even needed in conjunction with a switch? (My S2s don't have a relay.)
     
  2. Dec 28, 2016 at 11:28 PM
    #282
    Z50king

    Z50king DCLBOR4X4FTW

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    Yeah, light barz

    IMG_20161227_011646_084.jpg
     
  3. Dec 29, 2016 at 9:37 AM
    #283
    2017TacomaLance

    2017TacomaLance Member

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    Can you help me with this, I have the exact set up and I have read through each post and still not sure where the wires splice to but seems like you got it figured out. Can you help with the Guidance?
     
  4. Dec 29, 2016 at 1:06 PM
    #284
    mmessier2

    mmessier2 Well-Known Member

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    Got mine installed as well:

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Dec 29, 2016 at 2:15 PM
    #285
    nwAdamR

    nwAdamR Well-Known Member

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    Is the relay needed in conjunction with a switch?

    Did some testing with my voltmeter. The relay built into Baja's wire harness is cutting the negative to the switch's backlights when the button/light bar is activated. If a relay isn't needed, I'll yank it out.
     
  6. Dec 30, 2016 at 1:29 PM
    #286
    stormtrd

    stormtrd Well-Known Member

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    Help, I spliced into the cargo light and the switch and everything functions correct except the switch is illuminated all the time when the truck is turned on. My lights don't need to be on and the switch is always lit up, it doesn't change when the light bar comes on either. Just a constant on. Any help? Thanks

    Also, just noticed the light bar will come on without the truck on and no lights or power on. I followed the wiring write up.
     
  7. Dec 30, 2016 at 1:35 PM
    #287
    Cold_Toad

    Cold_Toad Well-Known Member

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    You must have tapped the wrong wire. The proper cargo light wire doesn't have constant power on it
     
  8. Dec 30, 2016 at 4:51 PM
    #288
    stormtrd

    stormtrd Well-Known Member

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    All set. Turned out one of the red wires from the switch needed to go to white and green also. The red wire from the relay I capped. The only small issue, when the switch is off, the light bar icon is lit and the 2nd power "led light bar" lights when the switch is on and I'd rather it the other way but couldn't figure that out. It's minor.
     
  9. Dec 31, 2016 at 7:10 PM
    #289
    stormtrd

    stormtrd Well-Known Member

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    Ok, all the electrical junkies out there, during my install, testing my light was perfect. Finally took it out for a drive tonight, turned the light bar on, 20 seconds later out. Apparently something with the truck running caused the fuse to blow. Anyone gave any suggestions? Thanks.
     
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2016
  10. Dec 31, 2016 at 8:06 PM
    #290
    Sagebrush

    Sagebrush Well-Known Member

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    Did you use a relay switch and pull the power off the battery?

    SB
     
  11. Dec 31, 2016 at 8:22 PM
    #291
    stormtrd

    stormtrd Well-Known Member

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    Yes and yes
     
  12. Dec 31, 2016 at 8:26 PM
    #292
    Sagebrush

    Sagebrush Well-Known Member

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    Could you be pulling power off the battery to run the relay switch and the cargo light to run your LED bar?

    SB
     
  13. Dec 31, 2016 at 8:55 PM
    #293
    stormtrd

    stormtrd Well-Known Member

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    The cargo light wire I used only has power when the truck lights are turned on. I ran the two wires red/black (red has fuse) with red to the battery and black to ground. Those two ho to relay. Then I have a white/black/red going from relay to my switch. It all worked as is while it was parked and I was testing by just turning on my lights, then tonight was the first time I went for a ride and it blew right away
     
  14. Dec 31, 2016 at 11:01 PM
    #294
    ian2016

    ian2016 @shockteq

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    Check you don't have any exposed wire where you connected the switch. I did on mine and blew a fuse when it grounded out. If anything is showing try electrical tape or heat shrink to insulate it.
     
  15. Jan 1, 2017 at 8:10 AM
    #295
    Sagebrush

    Sagebrush Well-Known Member

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    20 amp fuse? The bar should be pulling 10-15 amps and I assume it's a 40 amp relay.

    SB
     
  16. Jan 1, 2017 at 9:14 AM
    #296
    stormtrd

    stormtrd Well-Known Member

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    So now I have it 100% figured out. I didn't realize the cargo tap was actually only for the control of the relay. I was bringing the hot power red wire from the relay all the way to the switch, I ended up capping it and it's all good now.
     
    Sagebrush likes this.
  17. Jan 14, 2017 at 2:28 PM
    #297
    Moonshine

    Moonshine Active Member

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    [​IMG] I started working on this install today with a Cali Raised bar and hit a sticking point when I figured out my MicTuning switch doesn't fit into the open blank left of the steering wheel. Am I doing something incorrectly, or was that switch blank size changed on the '17's with the power sliding rear window?
     
  18. Jan 14, 2017 at 3:49 PM
    #298
    Sagebrush

    Sagebrush Well-Known Member

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    I think it's the skinnier one. This one worked in my 2016:

    https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Pu...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7H5HZ4MVWWPKB4ECF5FQ

    SB
     
  19. Feb 26, 2017 at 5:39 PM
    #299
    gitacotrd

    gitacotrd Well-Known Member

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    It changed... or mic tuning did... that switch is the one for the clutch cancel start on a manual. I spent about 5 min with a dremel and a file and got it to fit there
     
  20. Feb 26, 2017 at 8:14 PM
    #300
    gitacotrd

    gitacotrd Well-Known Member

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    On the new mic tuning harness it powered two light bars.... he backing has weird colors that are not the same (white instead of red, blue for white) I would reccomend another harness. One that is more straight forward. I like the fact I can expand off the same harness... but no need really.
     
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