30" Light Bar Install - Easier Than You Might Think

My switch will turn on the bar at anytime (key off/on, lights off/on, etc.). Basically the wiring is Batter to auxillary fuse block, fuse block to relay, Ground to relay, relay to switch, 12V power to switch, relay power to bar, ground to bar. Then to power the lower led in the switch, I tapped into a wire that was only hot when the parking lights are on. Of course this is oversimplified. If you wanted to only have the switch send power to the bar when the key is on you would need to run your power from somewhere other than directly from the battery.

 

or.....you could also find a 12v power source for the switch that is only hot when the key is on.

 

I have one of the mictuning switches and a wiring harness with a switch that I want to replace, which wires go to which?

 

If your microtunung switch has an independent led (words or symbol that work separate from the actual switch) then I assume your new switch has:
1. A wire that goes to the relay
2. A wire that powers the switch
3. A wire that powers the independent led
4. A ground wire.

I am not familiar with the mucrotuning switch so this is a guess.

Also, your existing switch on the harness I assume has three wires.
1. Ground
2. Power
3. Wire going to the relay.

Remember all the switch does is make the relay switch on and off.

 

To figure out witch wire is witch on your harness trace them back to the relay.

 

exactly, but was hoping someone already had before I start looking at everything and working my way back.

 

Here is where I tapped into for switch power. I think it's for the trailer brake. One is always hot. Used it for switch power. One is only hot with the parking lights on. Used it for Lower led power.

 

So I connect the ground to the ground correct? not separately grounded?

 

Either way would work. But if you remove the switch you have and put in the switch you bought. Yes, ground to ground, power to power, relay lead to relay lead.

 

Depending on how your switch works you could probably leave the fourth wire disconnected in the short term. My guess is it only powers the light for the wording on the switch.

 

Thank you so much!! I got it wired up. I did leave the 4th wire unconnected for now. I was thinking I could run it to the fuse panel right below the switches and use a jumper fuse.
(I do not have one yet for the pods, the light bar one is hooked up to the pods temporally)

 

Great job. Disregard the picture of the trailer brake harness. That is on my third generation. It is not possible to tap into the fuse block on the 3rd Gen but luckily for you you have a second gen. Should be plenty of places under there on yours. Search this forum and I guarantee there is a picture of your fuse panel showing what is hot and when.

 

Installed my light bar today. I still need to run the harness and put the switch in...but mounting it is complete. Many thanks to the OP (rysingsun) and MJBuscg. I still need to run the harness and install the switch but the bar is installed.

 

Looks good. What light is that?

 

Thank you. Here is the light I installed

Eyourlife 32" Led Light Bar Off Road 180W Work Light Bar For Jeep Cabin SUV Truck ATV Truck

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D8RYHHE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

 

Nice work tagged for later

 

I took pictures of the install process, but they really are not much different from other postings. I used the 90-degree brackets idea that MJBuscg used and I will be using the wiring instructions that rysingsun posted. The toughest part of installing the light bar was getting the height right so the bulbs were centered inside the lower grill.

 

This is a good thread on home-made mounts and wiring.

For those looking for a no drill mounting solution I've been following another member on here whose been fab-ing one up that's for sale. I'm not affiliated with him in anyway but have been impressed with his workmanship so thought I'd post it here. He just got it done and posted in the marketplace today. Here's the link for those who are interested: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/32-led-light-bar-mounts-stealth-and-flush-styles.412396/

 

I have a very similar issue trying to figure out how to connect my switch. I bought the OPT7 wiring harness which came with a dashboard switch already wired in, similar to the pictures posted above. The harness came without any instructions whatsoever, but I was able to establish continuity as follows from the wires on the back of the switch:

Blue - connects to pin 85 on the relay
White - connects to pin 87 on the relay
Black - connects to pin 86 on the relay

That being said, my switch that I want to use came with the following diagram:



For the life of me I can't make sense of this. The blue/yellow wire from the switch obviously goes to the dimming circuit. There's a switch adjacent to the spot I want to use that contains the fog light switch, so I assume I can just splice into the dimmer circuit there.

As for the other 3 wires, I'm totally at a loss. All I want is to be able to turn on my light bar regardless of the vehicle headlights, when the ignition is on. Can anyone help?

Edit: my dash switch that I want to use is from AirOnBoard, which supplied the wiring diagram in the photo above.

 

Sub'd for the great info!