33" tire owners, what is your wheel size/offset?

UCA's Camburg
2.5 to 3 inch lift - That changed with all the weight though.... Elka Suspension
Body chop to clear, I was rubbing with 265/70's
Now - 285/70/17's on Methods with 0 offset

 

thanks! This gives me incentive to not buy heavy E-load tires even with the 4.88’s I have

 

your assumptions about your needs sound accurate, but I would do a full leaf pack (Icon RXT or Deaver) if you want to do it right. My icon RXT leaf pack is at 2”now with the light setting because I run airbags. My rake is about 1” or maybe 1.125”. You can get the leaf pack for some good prices if you watch sales on TW, or sometimes wheelers.

some rake is good for more reasons than one

 

So i got an interesting comment on my YouTube channel today and i'm not sure i follow the logic or mechanics:

"Unpopular opinion: Unless you need the additional spring rate that most conventional suspension lifts come with, I would avoid a suspension lift. Yes, it's the knee-jerk reaction to every clearance issue and everyone on the forums will say you need it. However, there are negative effects to lifting a suspension on an IFS vehicle, and you will not gain additional tire clearance. I'll say it again: you will not gain additional tire clearance. The front suspension on an IFS vehicle rotates in a limited arc around a fixed center. A suspension lift only moves the static position of the tire along that arc. Any gain in up-travel comes at the expense of down-travel and the limits of the arc have not changed. If you hit the body at full compression before the lift, you will hit at full compression after the lift, and if you don't it's because the higher spring rate has limited your articulation not because you gained tire clearance. I would look into a body lift instead. A body lift moves the limits of the suspension arc. By moving the body away from the fixed center, your suspension can now move along a longer arc, regardless of what the static height of the suspension is. Add to that the fact that a) it's cheaper, b) it doesn't reduce down-travel, which is critical both on and off-road and c) it results in a lower overall COG than a suspension lift and a body lift starts to make more sense. I've been down this road many times (and spent LOTS of money figuring it out) with my built 100 series. You already went against the grain with the pizza cutters. Keep going down the rabbit hole."


1. For real? I won't get better tire clearance with a suspension lift?
2. Not sure about the arc lingo
3. I thought body lifts were a no-no if you're looking for offroad performance - don't they also end up damaging the suspension and frame if you're out wheeling?

I'm looking at my suspension upgrade for better ride quality on and offroad, but this comment seems to focus more on clearance and articulation (which ideally I'd get with upgraded front and rear suspension without a body lift) I'm I mistaken here?

 

Wow, that was a lot to read and not very clear. To make it simple, people’s opinions don’t cash my checks so I don’t pay much attention to them (especially on YouTube) unless the logic mechanics and physics is sound.

I can tell you with my upgraded rear suspension I have more clearance and travel. So much so I had to extend my brake lines 4”. Front suspension is entirely different than rear in how it cycles given it is a straight axle. His point about the centerline is true to an extent. Aftermarket UCAs can allow for some fine tweaking. I love my setup.

 

He is 100% right
I’ll add that the Forest Service fire rigs run “skinnies”
That being said, 285’s look way cooler hands down

 

Old post but those green wheels sparked my curiosity. Any more pictures of them?

 

Those are Volk TE37's in racing green

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/volk-racing-te-37-on-my-tacoma.447333/page-110#post-23005155

Very pricey!

 

if you have IG, I have plenty of pictures on my old te37s if you scroll down. I’m on work wheels currently that I PC racing green

 

He is just saying that when your suspension compresses and the tire goes up into the wheel well, the tire will end up in the same place whether the truck is lifted or not.
Like this

 

What’s the wheel offset and backspacing?