34 Gallon Fuel Tank - Long Range Automotive

What's wrong with you making money? You saving the buyer a heap of headaches by dealing with all of the import nonsense should be worth something.

 

i originally thought i would, but i just feel its already getting expensive lol. I got fleeced on import ad 640 bucks just for that, ug. i am just trying to help pay it forward

 

Want

 

boom, they look so nice lol

 

Very nice. Too bad shipping on those bad boys is so high. It would be cool if the Austrailian company would sell a franchise, along with specs, to a US fabrication company. After all, it's not rocket science. It's just a whole bunch of steel plates welded together.

 

shipping wasnt bad at all really. 400ish bucks to have two tanks shipped all the way over?

and i think i know why some might have issues filling all the way and it burping, the design with that one section higher then the fill neck will cause air to be trapped. I think i might weld on a extra vent tube in that section and T it into the breather hose.

 

Gas tanks are supposed to have an air pocket to allow for thermal expansion.

 

and it still would with a vent there. just no trapped gasses.

 

man, i can say the directions for this kit seem to suck balls. anybody that has installed this, do you have any pics of how the rear bracket is installed? did you run into any issues during install?

 

Very nice. Those things look bulletproof. Would you mind shooting one a couple times and posting pics?

 

ok, here are some tips and things i ran into during my install.
First, the directions that come with the tank suck. they suck so bad. its a wall of text with no pictures. they say things like

but with out any pictures or even labels on the brackets it makes it hard.



so with all that, the tank its self is very well made. and fits in the exact space with only a 1/4" of clearance. so they use every ounce of space.

The directions say to unhook the driveshaft and move it out of the way. however, this doesnt work, you need to fully remove the driveshaft AND the exhaust. you can see why in the pic below. the tank kinda goes above the exhaust. if you remove these two things install of the tank will make you swear a lot less.


the "front bracket" is a C shaped piece of steel with some holes in it. This gets placed INSIDE the front cross member and you put in two of the m8 bolts provide. (you can kinda see the holes in this pic) later on you will drill though this and bolt up the tank in this spot. (it would have been smarter for LRA to shift the holes over 1" so it lines up with those larger factory holes and move the tank bracket so you dont have to drill though your cross member)


the big pain for me was this rear bracket, no matter what i did, none of their holes lined up for me except for the welded tab. below is the rear inside bracket

.
I had to modify this bracket some to fit better. This was my first attempt. Notice i added in a second tab, welded on a nut and notched it. I will say that you can not add that second tab as if you do it will almost touch the tank(and if you have a bolt in it it will touch the tank for sure, so no go) i ended up cutting off that tab and just using the one tab.


and here you can see it installed. i drilled and tapped the rear cross member for that bolt at the end. i may go in and change this to a welded in nut or a nut welded to a piece of metal so you can feed it into the tube as i am not sure how strong the tapped hole is. also, with that threaded nut, make sure you test fit it first as i had to cut that nut off and move it over a 1/4" for it to fit. this area is super hard to get to so thats why i welded on a nut. not sure how you could get your hand up there and hold a nut while you screwed it in.


for the fuel and vent lines you will cut the factory connectors off the hardlines and reuse them for the new provided soft lines (funny, all the rubber lines were made in the USA LOL)

vent line, uses the factory quick connection and the provided hose clamp


large vent for charcoal filter, same thing, reuse the factory plug and provided hose clamp



fuel lines, again, you will reuse the ends and us the provided hose clamps. make sure you label these as these are the fuel supply and return lines and you dont want them mixed up. On the one picture you can see how you install the factory fuel pump, on this tank you will want to rotate the pump so that the float points to the back of the truck. the stock fuel pump is held down by that ring and a Oring under the pump to seal it. ( I would have liked to see a few more bolts holding it in, but sure its fine)


one other spot i had an issue with was the outside front hole. mine was off about a 1/4" so i had to open up the mounting hole on the tank in order to get the bolt started. this bolt is a PITA to do, as you do not have much room to work with.

if you have any questions let me know.

 

I want to do this to my truck. I would probably just take the bed off. Might make it a little easier.

 

which brings up another point lol. you need to make sure all hoses are routed high and not kinked.
One of mine must be kinked as i am having issues filling it quickly, so i am removing the bed this weekend to look. as i think that is easier then taking this tank out lol

 

So have you had it full yet? Is there any taco lean going on with the additional weight?

 

its full but i didnt notice anything, i will try to get a pic today

 

Sweet!!

 

Big question is how much further is your cruising range.

 

Well if your stock tank is 19 gallons. I've and the new one is 34 gallons. With my truck I do about 15 on the highway. So with my stock tank I would do 285 miles until it runs out.
With a 34 gallon tank I would be able to do 510 miles.

 

not sure yet, my tank still reads FULL lol. but i have only put like 50 miles on it.

 

Sweet