35s/34s minimal lift?

agree w/ all above - 315/75/16 w/ 3" lift, 1" body, CMC, and pinch weld mod - and I still rub my wheel wells and when I'm fully locked left to right. At this point, I'm tack welding spacers to my steering stop. Instead of beating the crap out of the wheel well - I would rather tube what needs to be chopped. Beating works until you crack a seam and water starts coming in - with that YMMV.

 

I have 315/75/16s 2” lift. Well maybe closer to 2 1/4”. I do rub the fire wall/wheel well if off-roading hard.

 

Who is running a cab relocate, vs just a maximum cab chop? Wanting to do my research before buying a set of 35's and new wheels to experiment with.

Which brand/model tires, and which wheels (or what width and offset/backspace specs) please?

 

3.5 inches of backspace works better with 35’s. 4.5 inches of backspace will rub the frame.

I just chopped my cab mount to the max. I don’t rub at all but I also have SPC UCA’s that let me push the wheel forward in the wheel well to keep it away from the cab mount.

 

how much backspace you need to not rub the frame also depends on the width of the rim also, i.e. how wide the section width of the tire actually is, along with what actual tires you have and the specs. a 315/75 can vary dramatically between brands. the BFG KO2s for example are way wider than the Cooper ST/MAXX in the same size.

 

also, it should be noted, Height can vary dramatically between tires as well, besides the reduction that wear introduces.


From a theoretical perspective, the less backspace the rim has (meaning it is offset further to the outside, the more you will need to chop out of the cab mount and fender and pinch weld. Because with less backspace the wheel will arc when turning, especially at the outer edge of the tread, instead of pivot. To me, perfection would come if the tire would just barely rub the frame at full lock with mild articulation, and rub hard on the tire side lugs only at full stuff/lock. The frame and the tire can handle it, and would be aired down significantly in any contact situation anyway. Frame can be smoothed and nothing is tearing or "catching" on the lugs of the tire. This would minimize the cab chop, fender and pinch weld interference. And of course, maxing out the caster and using SPC UCA to push the wheel as far forward as it will go. Spot welding a washer or shim onto the steering lock stop to reduce turning radius a tiny amount is OK in my opinion as well.

That all being said, who has done 315's with a 4.5" backspace wheel? or a 4.75" backspace wheel with a .75" bora spacer would be 4.0" effective... what width rim, 8"? What tire exactly? and what suspension lift (I could care less about a body lift)? Has anyone ever mounted 315's on a 7" rim?

Thanks in advance.

 

Very much agreed and excellent point. I currently have Fierce Attitude M/T 305/70R16 and the tread width at its absolute max is ~11” while the new tires being the exact same brand and type but in a 315/75R16 measure about 10” tread width.

 

Lift height doesn’t play a factor in how big of a tire you can fit assuming you actually wheel and aren’t a pavement pounder. Unless you have huge bump stop spacers, when stuffed your wheel will be stuffed the same lifted vs stock hight.
For 35s trim the fenders, chop off as much of the cab mount as possible and take a bfh to the firewall.

 

I’d like to run them if the taco had a v8

 

35s king shocks tc UCA

 

Crap sorry I don’t have the wheel specs.... craigslist.

I know that they are 16x8 ultrawheels

 

That's why you regear

 

315s 1 inch lift …