361 miles on ODO broken lug stud WTH??

My wheel shaft bolts BROKE off this week. Looking for any ideas as I prepare for the dealerships call after they get it on the lift. Aftermarket wheels and tires added 3 years ago. Driving generally speed limit on highway, rear passenger wheel took off and luckily no one was hurt. Found the wheel/tire in-tact with limited damage 40 yards in the woods.

2017 Tacoma TRD
Tires: BF Goodrich KO LT275 70R 17, 32.2", generally run them around 28-30 psi as they are larger. Great condition.
Wheels: Venomrex 17" VR-602 COAL BLACK
Last Service: July 2023 done by dealership that I go to regularly and typically trust.

Really lost for words, based on my research and advice from custom shops, these wheel/tire combo is acceptable. Never had any issues here. Have had multiple services (both by myself and by dealerships/private garages over the years). Suprised it if was related incorrect torque spec, lubricants, etc. To my knowledge its Toyota dealer protocol when my tires where rotated/aligned 7 months ago.

- Causes?
- After market tire/wheel issue?
- Warranty issue with shaft bolts?

Getting ready for the process. I'm assuming they are going to tell me all new rear axle and obviously the wheel hub assembly, brake assembly, etc. Biggest concern now is saftey not cost.

 

Picture of the lug nut side of the wheel usually tells the tale of what happened although you can clearly see on the wheel which stud was that last to let go. Also might help to get a picture of the drum pushed back tight to see where the other studs sheared off.

 

Except for any body damage you'll probably just need 6 wheel studs, 6 wheel nuts, a rim and a drum and you'll be good to go.

Do you retorque your wheels following a service?

 

They probably didn't actually torque the lugs nuts, and over tightened them.
I would have measured how tight the other wheel's lug nuts are, if I expected any recourse through the dealer (last shop to have touched this truck). If it went to straight to them, they probably already re-torqued the existing wheel nuts to CYA.

When a wheel comes off, people usually get hurt. I can't speak much to it, and honestly don't know much, but I have a buddy that is a dealer tech and they have been going through this since summer of last year,,,, it's a very big deal and everyone is getting called to the floor, including the guy that was refilling the soda machine in the breakroom at the time (last part is sarcasm).

 

what aftermarket wheels you running? are they hub centric or lug centric? Looks lug centric

 

the link says the bolt grade is 5. Where did you get 10.9?

 

Answering previous question, I've never retorqued after any service, will do that now.

Wheels are: https://vorsteineroffroad.com/products/vr-602-coal-black?variant=42753170014453

6x139.7 | -12, lug centric

Info from website.
Wheel diameter (IN): 17
Wheel Width (IN): 9
Bolt pattern: 6x135, 6x139.7
Wheel weight (LBS): 27.6

Offset (MM): +12, -12
Backspacing (IN): 4.5, 5.5
Hub Bore (MM): 87.1, 106
Max load (LBS): 2600

Maybe I should post on this thread, just found it. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...s-on-venomrex-wheels-purchased.588542/page-19

 

Lug centric wheel on hub centric vehicle...
Ovalled out bolt holes on the recovered wheel....
Visual inspection indicates the wheel was changing it's center constantly.....
Stud threads designed to apply linear tension were subjected to constantly changing lateral load.....

I'll take Notch fatigue failure on stud thread for $200 Alex

 

Thanks for the advice all.

 

Install some hub rings in your aftermarket wheels, they come in different sizes. Tacoma hub size is 106.1 mm I believe. The wheels I got were 110 mm. I had to install the rings to keep them centered and take the stress off the lugs.

 

I've been looking into hub rings but I'm not sure I'm willing to stick with after market unless it's hub centric by design. I'm reading that the rings are simply an alignment device for centering to hub. While I understand the logic here is lug centric is not properly centered thus leading to the broken shaft bolts, I'm not willing to risk this happening again.

 

So, I'm confused and concerned (since I run these wheels). I was under the impression these were hub centric wheels. And the hub of 106 listed matches the hub for the Tacoma. Several websites list the VR602 as hub centric... Where did the lug centric determination come from?

That said, the thread here on the wheels does have some concerning things to add about stock lug length and proper tightening. The response from Voresteiner/Venomrex was to add this to the website and I think I got it on paper with my wheels:

The Toyota Tacoma and 4Runner wheel applications are hub-centric at 106.2 millimeters. The 12x1.5 Spline Lug Nut Kit offered by Venomrex for Toyota applications receive 5.5 turns when installed properly, approved within OEM Toyota specs. Running Venomrex Wheels with the Venomrex Spline Lug Nut Kit on all Toyota applications has been thoroughly tested on and off road with no known issues.

The 5.5 turns is less than many people were comfortable with and went to longer lugs to ensure sufficient engagement. Maybe this is an example of why there was cocnern?

 

I'm guessing on lug centric. It's not stated on the site from what I can see. I also didn't have any type of lug nut kit with them outside of the lug nuts themselves. I can confirm the shaft bolts are oem.

I installed the wheels 3 years ago. Like I said though they have been off and put back by the dealership twice in the past 16 months, last time being July 2023. Interested if you see that posted on their site, I will reach out to Voresteiner directly now to confirm.

A bit over my head here but thought I did the proper research before selecting everything.

Expecting the technicians diagnosis tomorrow hopefully.

 

Stamped on the stud head:

 

I set my wrench at 110 ft lbs.
It would take some excessive overtorque to snap the lugs.

 

why 110?

 

Yes this isn't the ideal setup with a machined proper bore but tbh i've put lots of aftermarket rims on Toyotas and although less that ideal but if you used there specified nuts or other extended thread nuts, they should work. The rim manufacturer would be exposed to big liability otherwise

realistically they should also be cleaning your wheel mounting surfaces of rust otherwise a little bit can free itself and then allow the wheel to work itself looser and looser over time.

Honestly though I'd recommend getting your wheels retorqued after 50-100kms and again at 1000kms after your wheels have been removed. OEM included, wheels can loosen up over initial mounting and thats usually why shops will have a pre-printed blurb on the work order or sign on the window/door etc.

 

When I went in for the retorque on my tires the guy was setting them to 110. I asked him, "Aren't they supposed to be 83#'s?"
He said they're going round and round at 70+ mph and take a beating. He torques them all to 110#.

 

If he made the case of torquing a conical nut vs a flat nut like oem or using the aftermarket wheel torque would be a conversation to be had but just to torque to 110ft-lbs because you're driving on the highway, especially with stock wheels is bs.

Over torquing may not snap studs but it can increase your odds of warping your rotors/drums or overtime lead to stud snappage from excessive stretch over time

 

What guy?
It seems your guy is rather clueless.
I would find a guy who follows data. This shade tree mech will get you in a bind at some point. Over torquing is bad for studs as well as the wheels. Alloy wheels will warp and distort when over torqued.