390km clutch is DONE

Nope, I have no idea what you are talking about. I could care less about paint chips and warranty.

And if you're going to quote my post, be sure not to crop out my qualifying statement, which was......

 

Hmmm, I didn't know you couldn't smoke a cigar and eat a hotdog while driving a manual. I'll tell myself that next time I am, doing something similar in my manual.

 

Sure you don't have to believe me, you also don't need to comment. So if you would kindly f-off, and carry on with your life, that wouldn't bother me in the least

 

I spoke with the customer relations department at Toyota this afternoon, and they will not change their stance on the warranty. As of right now; the cost of parts alone is already at $2000, labour hasn't been factored in yet. I can't believe there is even any question, as to whether it's covered or not.

 

That completely sucks! For that BS parts quote, it might be worth getting towed to a shop nearby?

I am amazed that this is not covered.

 

I thought it seemed high, I figured the whole job would be under $2000

 

Ouch bum deal op

 

They are probably quoting a flywheel also, but googling clutch kits comes up with an Aisin brand for less than $200:
https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproduct...8sjp9eBhv89yBWwhIaAoYgEALw_wcB&ad=47433949212

That is probably the supplier to the factory anyway.

With all the space and access, I'd be targeting $1k.

 

Oops! That is for the 4cyl. Just for comparison, there is this aftermarket kit:
https://www.urdusa.com/urd-stage-3-clutch-for-2gr-fks-3-5l-v6-w6-speed-transmission/

 

This doesn't add up at all.... OP why don't you ask them to watch you drive one of their manual cars so that they can see how you operate a manual?

You weren't doing anything crazy with the truck right? No burnouts?

 

The cost for my repair were around $2200 (CAD) - ~$650 in labour ~$1600 for all the parts.

they replaced the pressure plate, fly wheel, release bearing and clutch disc.

 

I would not let this end.. consumer fraud agency???? Complaint against Toyota Corp..

 

Wow, thats a bad deal. I would check local transmission shops and see what they quote and maybe even check local junk yards for a wrecked taco with MT.
Has the dealer disassembled and determined cause of failure, or are they just saying not covered without a proper diagnosis?

 

Man there is def something not right with it. Toyota clutches can take a beating. I have a 3rd gen and a 1st gen. 36k on the 3rd gen with no issues and my 1st gen has 200k and a ton of off-roading (it’s a sas wheeling rig that really needs a doubler) I’ve literally smoked the clutch (clouds) a couple times. Just let it cool and it was all good.

I would of want to see the new parts vs the old. The dealer I’m sure is on your side in a sense...problems like this hafta go through corporate unfortunately. Wonder how much say the service manager has if he knows it wasn’t user error. Let him try driving it...is there another manual on the lot you can compare too? You must be able to feel the difference between one slipping and a good one to burn a clutch that quick. If there’s a definite difference it’s probably the master cylinder and therefore defective equipment and you should get reimbursed on the clutch work. Just worried it’s gonna happen again is all.

I’ll admit I’m not the best manual driver. Have a hard time rev matching in these trucks. Between the throttle delay and the heel toe gap.

 

That's what I'm curious about. When this same issue happened to me, I was told the warranty may or may not apply pending what they found during tear down. It sounds like they are flat out denying the warranty despite having no idea if a defective part caused the issue.

 

Last year, Toyota wanted $3k to do a clutch job on my 04. This should be covered under warranty, but if it isn't and you get tired of fighting them, DO NOT get the work done at any Toyota dealer...go to an independent transmission/mechanic shop. A clutch job there is usually around $1k, maybe less.

 

You’d think with that low of miles they’d simply warranty it in good faith. Then if it happened again they could blame driver.

I had my clutch and throw out bearing replaced on my 2005. I don’t remember it being more than a grand but that was 7 years ago or so.

Also that was at around 110k Miles.

 

That’s a bad clutch without a question. People wheel and tow with their trucks and clutch burn is inevitable, and yours may as well have gone out driving it off the lot.

Hope you can escalate and get someone who can help, otherwise take it to an independent shop with whatever assembly you buy (if your clutch is out that fast, who knows about your flywheel at this point).

 

Did you get it repaired yet?

 

If you keep your clutch foot on the pedal while driving, that is what happens. Just resting it can engage it enough to slip and it doesn't take much to burn. Hydraulic clutches are bad about that because it doesn't take as much pressure to get engagement.