3rd GEN Added Lamps to Cargo SW

Duh, sorry, I should have known this. So then, it might be the purple wire? CGON.

What does CCTY, CGON (Cargo On?), CGLP (Cargo Lamp?) stand for on the pin out diagrams above?

Thanks,
Matt

 

Looking quickly, but I think this is correct.

CGLP - RED - This is the signal to the Body ECU that tells it what mode the cargo lamp is in. (On, off, door)
CGON - purple - this is the output from the Body ECU that controls the cargo lamp relay. It also goes through he cargo switch. ON/Door are both connected to Blue (CCTY). Off does not connect to anything (so the cargo lamp will not come on).

CCTY - Blue - goes to the cargo lamp relay.

CCTY is grounded to turn on the stock cargo relay. If you want your lights to have the same function, your relay should have one side of the coil to +12V, and the other to CCTY.

 

The little black box from the Aura kit is a replacement for any additional relays, etc. This box takes a + remote wire indicating the door is open, not a negative wire like CCTY. The + remote wire would then be equivalent to the + switch power to pin 86 in a relay solution. The difference between a ground activated relay vs a positive activated relay...

 

So if I’m reading this right...if you wanted to add some rock or additional bed lights to the existing switch/bed light circuit, the most simple solution that would work would be:
Add relay...from the relay connect to fuse with constant 12v source (30 and 86 bridge), new lights (87), and tap into the blue CCTY cargo lamp relay wire (85)???

the 12v could be a add-a-fuse tap into the interior fuse box (seems like sunroof was one that was used—I’m thinking about building a Bussman for a few other things so that would be my relay and fuse to power connection).

these would require a lower power light as to reduce likelihood of overwhelming the circuit. (I’ll apologize ahead of time as I myself am still learning on this one)

 

Here is a picture of the Opt 7 Aura Pro box:

1) The remote + wire to tell the unit to turn on the LED strips
2) The plugs for the LED strips
3) The power plug for the LED strips

Effectively, I need the + to the cargo lamp. I think I can add a relay as described to invert the power requirement from negative out to positive out, OR I can tap the + accessory wire off the cargo lamp relay (not using the harness at all).

 

The only way I see this working is if you find the light green wire off the cargo relay to attach to your signal wire (1). Or wire in your own relay as I described above. The ecu is NPN (low side switching) to turn the stock cargo light relay on and off.

 

Yeah I think we're saying the same thing, but I don't have my terminology refined. This Opt7 box has a positive (high side) switching circuit via the + remote wire for the door assist feature. The stock cargo light harness uses a negative (low side) switching circuit. A properly wired relay in between would invert the switching mechanism. Or, tapping the + light green wire off the cargo lamp relay would also do the trick.

Now I just need to figure out which approach to take. Since the LED kit already has dedicated power and ground requirements, having yet another power and ground for the intermediate relay seems like a lot of extra wiring. Going the other route, I'd have to tap an existing OEM wire, which I am trying to avoid. I've done the tapping for other applications thus far in the truck, so maybe I should just bite the bullet and follow suit?

 

It's honestly your call. Were you trying to have it behave the same way as the cargo light/switch? The power supply to your black box looks like it is just a standard barrel connector. You could tap the + from that to power the coil of the relay for your signal and tie the other side of the coil to CCTY. Then run that same +12V to the normally open contact and the common of the contact(s) to your signal wire.

My preference is to always avoid modifying the stock wiring as much as possible.

 

Yes

I am starting to follow you. Take advantage of the low side switching already in place. I am relatively new to wiring relays. I have an aux fuse box project in progress as well, here.

I would still need a new relay, but I shouldn't have too many extra wires running all over... sound right so far?

 

Yeah, essentially replacing the stock cargo relay with your own.

 

That would work. I don't want the rear cargo lamp to come on ever. I can take the bulb out. And then I can add my own relay, and take advantage of the taps from your harness. I'm sorting out the wiring diagram. I'll post that when I think I have it. Then you can tell me where I fucked up, lol. The fun part is figuring out how! This is what happens when you give a software engineer a hardware problem

Thanks for all your help so far, my dudes!

Matt

 

Does this look like an accurate depiction of a relay? I am putting this together from scratch in LucidChart... LucidChart has a stencil for the relay but conveniently doesn't include the labels for the nodes...

 

If you snip CCTY on the truck side of the harness (female plug on what I am sending you), it will remove the stock cargo lamp from the circuit. You can use the pigtail lead for your new relay. The cargo lamp will never come on and your new LEDs will take its place. Also simple to revert back to stock by just removing the PnP harness.

 

Yes. CCTY goes to either 85 or 86, and your +12v will go to the other one. +12 also to 30, and your signal wire to 87.

 

Yeah I like that...

 

Getting close to what you described, but it's not quite right yet... the + and - from the Opt7 Aura Pro kit are pictured as going direct to the battery for power and ground. Also, for the sake of my diagram layout, I swapped the 85 and 86 nodes in the relay.

 

You need to splice the Aura power wire to tap off the 12v from that cable. Make sure it comes from a fused source. You certainly can get 12v from somewhere else, but there is no need if you have it there already. There is no reason to separate the 12v supplies, they all start at the battery.

 

Like this?

 

Yup, just make sure that fuse is enough to supply your LEDs. My personal preference would be to leave the existing circuit alone/intact and see if there is an empty spot in the fuse box, or come straight off the battery. Either way will work. This is assuming the Aura is located somewhere near the Cargo lamp switch and relay.

 

Brain farted. Thanks for the catch. Fixed it.