3rd GEN Added Lamps to Cargo SW

Since I am no longer planning to use the cargo lamp, I don't mind going with an add-a-fuse off of the interior fuse box from the cargo lamp slot. I do have a dedicated circuit from my engine bay aux fuse panel that I could use to power the whole thing as well. As I am already planning to get through the firewall for various other things from that engine aux fuse box, then its no big deal to add wires to that bundle for this application. I did just realize however, that the Aura (and many like it) use bluetooth to let an app connect and change the LED colors. In that case, with this thing hard wired, the bluetooth will always be on... that might lead to slow battery drain... hmmmm. Maybe I can find a different kit that has the LED color I want and is just a straight hardwire with no frills...

Thanks for all the help, looking at this design makes more sense to me now for low side switching... I've only been reading up on positive side switching for my other relay applications in said engine bay aux fuse panel...

Matt

 

There are many wrong (bad) ways to do something like this, and just as many good ways.

I didn't look at the product info that closely, but yes, you will definitely want a power source that is switched with the ignition.

If you have other questions feel free to PM. I'm an automation & controls engineer and deal with this stuff all the time.

 

You could be forgiven for all the knowledge you've dropped on us! Thanks for the reply and update

Matt

 

Alright, so I think I will return the Opt7 kit and try to find something that is a bit more basic. I still want to wire my LEDs directly to the battery so that they can turn on with the door opening. I don't want the bluetooth always on.

@lapoltba Do you know a good source for automotive LEDs? I've seen some stuff here that looks right, but the title/description don't quite match so I am a bit confused:

Some LEDs
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...-tape-light-1224v-ip67-waterproof/4756/12526/

Power Supply (this is where I am confused... title says 12v but description says AC)
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...60-100w-enclosed-power-supply-12v/5674/13268/

RF Inline Dimmer (this might create the same power draw problem with always on inline RF chip?)
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...oller-with-dynamic-modes-rf-remote/1370/3140/

I need 2 strips about 18 inches long apiece, to be located under the driver and passenger front dash/kick panel area. Hardwired into a (slightly simpler) circuit like the one we were designing above. I think the setup above would do the trick? I might opt for the RGB version with a fancier RF remote to control the color and brightness...

Thanks!
Matt

 

I think this is for going from AC to 12v DC, so should not be necessary. I am sourcing new LEDs and an inline hardwire dimmer (not RF). This will prevent any passive power draw from an RF chip AND will keep the dim setting constant between power cycles...

 

I don't have any suggestions, but any 12V rated LED should work fine. There are plenty of options out there.

 

Ok, so here is the wire bundle coming from the back of the 3 relays in my dash, the middle one of which is the relay for the cargo lamp. I can't really access the rear of the relays so as to tell which wire would be the cargo lamp positive lead that powers the rear bulb. Can anyone here help me identify which wire/pin from the harness I would want to tap for power?

 

YES

Since you're adding a relay, that would determine how much amps, also the source and wire for the main power. The Max amps for the add-a-fuse seems to be 15 amp. But that is dependent on brand and the specs. (larger wire)

 

Hey @caribe makaira thanks for getting back to me. So, if I want to use the OEM Relay Accessory + wire, which wire would that be from my picture above? The LED's I am wanting to add off the cargo lamp button / circuit don't take much amperage at all (1 amp or less). So, I am considering tapping into the OEM relay's positive accessory wire to power the LEDs...

Thanks,
Matt

 

The cargo lamp circuit is not an accessory (switched) circuit. The 7.5A fuse is always hot.

 

I am not trying to tap the 7.5 amp fuse, I am trying to tap the relay accessory positive wire that runs to the actual cargo lamp light bulb. Using this positive wire to drive two small LED strips instead of the bulb, with the same/similar amp draw as the OEM bulb. This honors the Cargo Lamp switch position and otherwise avoids having to add/wire a new relay. I've mentioned wanting to try both approaches, so I understand the confusion I am causing!

Thanks!
Matt

 

The picture I posted above with the entirety of the wire bundle coming from the 3 relays, is what I can see. There are several light green wires in that bundle. I don't know which one represents the 'light green' wire from the back of the cargo lamp relay. Looking for the pin out from the opposing harness that all those wires go into, would be how I could identify which wire is the right wire...

Also, I bought some simple 12v LED single color strips from superbrightled.com. I returned the Aura Pro kit as it had too many fancy features that were detracting from a simple install. For example, since I want this circuit to be hot with the doors open even when the truck is off, the bluetooth chip would always be powered and could cause small power drain issues... etc.

 

Locate IE1...slot 14..reference post#70

 

The picture I posted of my harness doesn't match the pin count/color from that harness reference. My harness has 3 pins tall on the outsides, this reference only shows 2 pins tall on the outsides. Might still be IE1, pin 14?

Here is another angle of the harness I see:

 

Perfect thank you so much! Works well. I don't like the LED strip lights as they don't mount well anywhere under the footwell/dash. I ordered some small spot LEDs to replace the strips. But overall, works exactly as I would want. Low watt (0.2w) LEDs put the amp rating over the tiny stock wire at 0.016amps. That should be safe.

 

Got them wired up tonight. Look good, work great. Thanks @caribe makaira and @lapoltba for all the help!

 

Do you think you could add a fuse the accessory portion of the relay power to a less valuable fuse (in terms of ignition/accessory fuse usability for other things) like the washer/wiper?