3rd gen audio build - Joying tacoma headunit

Damn that sucks. I ordered the harness and everything thinking that this would work. From what the guys over at taco tunes told me, was that the whole JBL system needs to be ripped out. Really not trying to get into all of that.

 

Ripping it out is actually not as bad as it sounds when your replacing the headunit.

All the speakers lead back to the factory amp, so thats all wired already

You need to find out what wires from the amp go to what speaker, this can be done with a 9 volt battery (listen for the pop sound from each speaker)
Install new headunit, either run speed wire or RCA cables from the headunit to where the factory amp was. If you are going to amp the speakers just run RCA cables, if you are not going to amp the speaker and just use the headunits power to run the speakers then run speed wire.

now just plug in the wires that you labeled for each speaker into the new amp or speedwire and your pretty much done.

The big challenge that everyone talks about with the jbl system is that the headunit is tied to the factory amp. If your removing the headunit then its easier to make the JBL system sound great than it is to make the non-jbl system.

 

Just took the plunge and ordered the Joying unit. A few questions for those of you that have installed it and are running aftermarket amps / subs.

1. I've read that on some joying units, the main volume is independent from the sub volume. So when the volume goes up down, the sub stays the same and then you'd need to raise / lower the sub level separately. Is this an issue on this unit?

2. I noticed the Joying unit is only using 1 RCA out for the Sub. Are you all simply using a Y splitter to feed your amps?

3. I've read that the preamp voltage on the sub out is VERY low and that you need to run everything at max to get any kind of thump out of your subs. Any feedback on this one?

Thank for your help folks, I'll be sure share my experience once I install mine

 

Sub volume goes up with the normal volume. There is a adjustment in the EQ settings where you can adjust it by itself though.

Yes there is just a single rca coming out for the sub. A splitter will do just fine, I am using a DSP, so I have the single sub input but the DSP splits it for me.

I actually had to turn some of my gains down, The big issue I ran into was that the headunits volume was really really loud when not using a amp (using the headunits built in amp) I would get to volume 3-4 and it would be really loud.

 

I don't plan on using and amp for the speakers, only for the subs. Did you find a way to turn down the volume using the deck amp?

 

No, I only used the deck amp for 2 days for my rear speakers before I finished wiring them up.

 

okk tks, I'll see what I can come up with

 

Yeah, it does. Interestingly, I intentionally left the rear speakers unplugged from the Joying harness (it's a smaller one with 4 green and 4 purple wires that connects to a blue plug) and still had audio coming from the rear. This is true for both methods - all in with just the head unit and all in with just the TYTO-02 connector. It leads me to believe that there's something with the main, longer flat connector that the canbus reads off/interacts with that is controlling something downstream in the process.

I had gone as far as re-pinning the Joying plug for the front speakers, grey and white, but that didn't work. And I'm not sure how to re-pin the main connector to just swap in the pins that are empty from the Joying one.

I've asked Joying support if they have any compatible Tacoma JBL head units and haven't heard back yet.

 

So I just got the harness in the mail today. Do you thinks it’s worth it to install?

 

Does this unit support google assistant calling natively without any modifications?

I bought a similar headunit but getting the call function to work has been a big pain(rooting, installing a couple of apps and it's still a bit iffy sometimes)

 

I mean, you can... And it does work, or has been for me and the audio isn't shutting off anymore. I haven't pulled the trigger on the steering wheel adapter. I think I'm going to put the stock entune unit back in for now. I'm kind of burned out with messing with it.

 

I though you said your audio started dropping again

 

Correct. I had to order that adapter as well. All fits good now.

 

It was dropping again when I was only using half of the Axxess connector. The smaller connector with the 2 white and 2 grey, front speaker wires. In order to keep canbus and rear camera, I was using the Joying longer, flatter connector. That gave me 23+ minutes of uninterrupted sound, then would cut out. So I'm back to full in with the Axxess and have no steering wheel controls, backup camera, and "neat" door/lock/tpms integration. I also lost some lights coming on with the door open. They work with the switches.

 

FYI, I tried a Nakita backup camera and the image quality is still poor. Not sure if it’s just the head unit or if there is a setting somewhere.

 

THere is a setting in there to change, I tried changing it but it did nothing for the OEM camera... might do something for the aftermarket one though. But check the resolution on the one you got, might just be low res stretching to the bigger screen.

 

If you don’t mind, what is the setting you are referring to?

I’ve looked and couldn’t find anything that would help.

Thanks!

 

Go to settings, factory (3368 password) then about halfway down is a option that says "reversing HD video" or something like that.

 

Thanks for the info, unfortunately it didn’t do anything for me either.

I’m going to send an email to Joying to see if they know anything.

 

Did you know You can adjust the picture, color and brightness? While in reverse and the backup screen is up touch the screen and a settings menu should pop up. I had to adjust them as it looked way to bright with my original own camera. It’s not perfect but it’s much better.