3rd gen audio help

Hello,

This is the first time I'll be swapping out speakers while keeping the factory head unit. I hope that one of you could help me identify exactly how Toyota wired their speakers in this 2018, so I can take the panels off, install, and replace panels all in one day without having to go back and order once I see what's going on. Goal is the most direct plug and play replacement.

From what I've gathered in various places.

(1) The tweeter is wired in parallel with the 6x9 door speaker. Therefore one won't work without the other.
(2) The tweeter is more full range than a typical component tweeter. Also both the tweeter and the 6x9 are 8 ohm speakers presenting a 4 ohm load to the head unit.
(3) The tweeter utilizes a passive filter in the form of a capacitor glued right on it. I'm not an circuit expert, so I do have one question. Are the 6x9s still receiving the entire range of sound?
(4) I assume that no filters are involved with the rear speakers. Entire range of sound should be going to it. Therefore coaxials should cut the bill.
(5) Haven't been able to identify what ohms the rear speakers are.

I appreciate any input/corrections.

 

I can't be too much help, but you got the series/parallel thing backward. If you take one driver out of a series circuit nothing will work. With parallel it will still work but you raise the impedance (the amp provides less power unless it uses a regulated power supply).

Regarding your 3rd question, a capacitor in this context acts as a high pass filter. Any driver passing through this component will only pass higher frequencies - limited by the value of the capacitor and the impedance of the driver.

 

He got two things wrong.

Here are inconsistencies I see.
(1) If they were in parallel each speaker would work without the other.
(2a) If they were wired in series, two 8 ohm loads would be one 16 ohm load.
(2b) If they were wired in parallel, two 8 ohm loads would be one 4 ohm load.

 

I think I'd go down that road

 

I have no idea how the factory stereo is wired in these things. I totally ripped out my JBL system so I didn't deal with it.

There's a lot of weird crap they do with these factory systems.

 

(1) The tweeter is wired in parallel with the 6x9 door speaker. Therefore one won't work without the other.
- the way the front tweeters seem to go, is there are 4 wires, 2 to the woofer, 2 from the headunit. Removing the tweeter turns off the woofer because the plug is no longer connected to complete the audio signal. So the wires go from the headunit into the tweeter where it branches off to the woofer, it appears they are run in parallel, but dont work when you unplug the tweeter like a normal parallel system would.

(2) The tweeter is more full range than a typical component tweeter. Also both the tweeter and the 6x9 are 8 ohm speakers presenting a 4 ohm load to the head unit.
- Yes, the tweeter is more of a full range, its a small 2.5 inch paper cone

(3) The tweeter utilizes a passive filter in the form of a capacitor glued right on it. I'm not an circuit expert, so I do have one question. Are the 6x9s still receiving the entire range of sound?
- the woofer I do not think has any sort of crossovers, but rather just relies on its own lack of ability to produce higher freq.

(4) I assume that no filters are involved with the rear speakers. Entire range of sound should be going to it. Therefore coaxials should cut the bill.
- correct, no filters in the back, just a standard coax is perfect.

(5) Haven't been able to identify what ohms the rear speakers are.
- I believe these are also 4 ohms.



Now, if you have the jbl system, this is all wrong. jbl system is weird.