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3rd Gen DIY maintenance quick reference

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016+)' started by Amanelot, Dec 20, 2015.

  1. May 9, 2020 at 1:38 PM
    #781
    LivinOnEdge

    LivinOnEdge ✧゚・:*¯\_(ツ)_/¯*:・゚✧ Sarcastic Fairy Dust

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    Yes, sorry to confuse you. Was not my intention.
     
    Amanelot [OP] likes this.
  2. May 9, 2020 at 1:39 PM
    #782
    Amanelot

    Amanelot [OP] Well-Known Member

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    No problem, I think ill add both. I'm seeing the standard filter still available from some sources
     
    LivinOnEdge likes this.
  3. May 10, 2020 at 3:10 PM
    #783
    jimmerheck

    jimmerheck Well-Known Member

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    that is what I use, I get them on Amazon, last one I bought was under 6 bucks.
     
  4. May 10, 2020 at 3:14 PM
    #784
    Dirk Diggler

    Dirk Diggler Under the Stun Gun

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    Agreed worked great for what I needed it for.

    Wasn't for gear oil though used amsoil with the sweet pouch. Used it on my motorcycle, wifes car, and pending a gear oil check in my T case and trans
     
  5. May 10, 2020 at 6:08 PM
    #785
    ChuckTruck

    ChuckTruck Member

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    Sub'd, awesome info, thanks!
     
    Amanelot [OP] likes this.
  6. May 20, 2020 at 4:44 PM
    #786
    BortisYeltzen

    BortisYeltzen Well-Known Member

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    The land of Mo...(UT)
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    2017 MGM TRD Off-road DCLB
    OV Tuned, Bilstein TRD Pro lift, ECGS bushing, Heated Clazzio's, RCI SKID TRILOGY, BAMF sliders, ARE V-Series shell, RokBlokz flaps, more to come
    Sorry if it’s been addressed in this thread, I tried various search options (including Google) and didn’t find anything for my question.

    About to change out the front brake pads on my 2017 TRD OR with about 75,000 miles. Original pads still have 2-4 mm. Mostly highway miles and I let the engine do a lot of my braking, so I get long life out of pads typically.

    2 questions:
    1. Do I need to get my rotors turned? They have plenty of thickness left, basically still at full thickness. Rotors seem smooth and straight, small step (0.010-0.030”) near the inner hub flange where the pads end/don’t make contact.
    2. When I remove the old pads, with the OR braking system, can I just push the pistons back with a c-clamp or other fancy piston return tool (thanks social media, I bought one), or is there something I need to do before I push the pistons back?

    I’ve worked on motorcycle and mountain bike disc brakes a ton, just haven’t done much with my vehicles. Thanks.
     
  7. May 20, 2020 at 6:21 PM
    #787
    Karminski

    Karminski Well-Known Member

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    I would always turn the rotors in the past, but it’s hard to find someone to do it for a reasonable rate any more - and don’t get me started on the drums :goingcrazy: I’ve found it about as cheap to get new rotors and drums as to have the old ones resurfaced. I hate throwing away good stuff though - the old ones make great trot line anchors :wink: If they are smooth and straight and don’t have a mirror finish; then it probably won’t hurt to just do pads. Worse case you need to get another set of pads and then address the rotors.

    I have a ‘16 OR and c-clamps worked great. I did see somewhere where a guy had modified a caulk gun to do that. Always wanted to give that a try. I’ll have to post again if I find it.
     
  8. May 20, 2020 at 6:38 PM
    #788
    BortisYeltzen

    BortisYeltzen Well-Known Member

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    The land of Mo...(UT)
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    2017 MGM TRD Off-road DCLB
    OV Tuned, Bilstein TRD Pro lift, ECGS bushing, Heated Clazzio's, RCI SKID TRILOGY, BAMF sliders, ARE V-Series shell, RokBlokz flaps, more to come
    I got one of these things for $40.
    39303A3D-4C56-4BA3-9CE9-1780DAF26933.jpg
    I’ve installed a lift, sliders, skids, Meso puddles and other things on the truck but never really worked on my truck brakes. Seems simple enough after working on high end bikes and motorcycles. Just want to make sure I’m not missing anything obvious with the electromechanical OR brakes. Wasn’t sure if pushing fluid back through the system could cause issues.

    **Edit: Added photo of my rotor, lazy and didn’t want to pull the wheel. Not sure if you can glean anything from this image.

    F1D2F288-F137-4394-916A-5AA3D8B75AD1.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2020
    Karminski likes this.
  9. May 20, 2020 at 8:47 PM
    #789
    dhectorg

    dhectorg Well-Known Member

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    I never turn rotors anymore. If they're wearing pretty evenly and not warped at all, I just replace pads and keep on rolling. It's never been a problem for me. I do mostly highway driving as well and the last time I replaced a set of rotors was on my old 2005 Colorado with 155,000 miles on it and even they weren't totally spent.

    I always use a c-clamp to compress the pistons, placing the old brake pad between the clamp and the piston, works great, no special tools needed.
     
  10. May 21, 2020 at 3:27 PM
    #790
    smdcbr

    smdcbr Well-Known Member

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    I'd just swap pads and the clips that hold them if my rotors look like that when it's time, if you're not getting pulsing in the pedal. Worst case you get a few less miles out of your new pads.
     
    BortisYeltzen and Karminski like this.
  11. May 21, 2020 at 9:18 PM
    #791
    BangosTaco

    BangosTaco Well-Known Member

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    Stock
    Hey guys and gals

    Who sales OEM Oil the cheapest online?

    Local dealership are marking it up to $12 a qt

    BAM Warehouse?
     
  12. May 22, 2020 at 11:10 AM
    #792
    Amanelot

    Amanelot [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I usually get the 6qt deals on ebay. Usually around $40
     
  13. May 24, 2020 at 8:36 AM
    #793
    kgilly

    kgilly Well-Known Member

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    Bed cover and Mud flaps, OEM Audio, Super Bump stops, Sumo Springs
    I did all my fluids yesterday and FYI, no need to remove front skid for the front differential..
     
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  14. May 24, 2020 at 1:28 PM
    #794
    Amanelot

    Amanelot [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Only the #2 skid has to be removed. That only applies to models with the #2 skid (off road, TRD pro)
     
    kgilly likes this.
  15. May 25, 2020 at 5:45 AM
    #795
    kgilly

    kgilly Well-Known Member

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    Bed cover and Mud flaps, OEM Audio, Super Bump stops, Sumo Springs
    Almost at 52k miles on my 2016 and still on original pads up front...will stay with OEM brakes and rotors when I do change them...
     
    BortisYeltzen likes this.
  16. May 27, 2020 at 6:19 PM
    #796
    TWTaco

    TWTaco Well-Known Member

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    no change.
     
  17. May 28, 2020 at 8:37 PM
    #797
    Amanelot

    Amanelot [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Changed my transmission filter today! Pretty simple job. I'm glad I did it, I wouldn't say the filter was bad, but it was getting there. Magnets looked maxed out. Cleaned them all up
     
    Dirk Diggler likes this.
  18. May 28, 2020 at 10:53 PM
    #798
    dhectorg

    dhectorg Well-Known Member

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    What mileage you at?
     
    Amanelot [OP] likes this.
  19. May 29, 2020 at 6:25 AM
    #799
    Amanelot

    Amanelot [OP] Well-Known Member

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    105k
     
  20. May 29, 2020 at 7:26 AM
    #800
    Smacky2020

    Smacky2020 Well-Known Member

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    Stock wheels and suspension. Random "utilitarian" mods featured on this great forum.
    Was this your first fluid drain/fill or have you been doing those regularly (ie every 30k or so)? On most sealed transmissions, it's more of a larger particle strainer vs an actual filter element. Just curious why you went this far vs doing regular drain/fills since this is technically not a required service item. But neither is the fluid I guess per "lifetime" Toyota assessment.
     

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