3rd gen flooded

Front diff, rear diff, and tcase at a minimum like stated, tcase actuator and front diff actuator should probably be removed, opened and cleaned.

The biggest thing is going to be IN cab electrical. ESPECIALLY the front driver kick panel with the majority of things like fuel pump wiring etc go through that looks to of been submerged.

 

Because water in oil does not make a good lubricant and can create corrosion. A small amount of water turns oil to muck.

 

Ahhh - so water gets into them easy in the diffs and screws up the oil in the truck? Gotcha - very interesting and helpful. Thanks!

 

Anyone got a link of instances of this happening? I've looked into doing the rear diff breather extension and came out of it unconvinced it was necessary. Not saying Toyota is infallible, but why aren't diffs exploding left and right from people backing up their boat trailers? I'm of the opinion that if water got in your diffs, you probably have bigger problems personally, but I'd love to see some evidence of the problem vs. it being a "feel good" mod. I get the whole temperature differential theory, and old vs. new seals being at play, I just haven't seen the real world evidence to justify it. Maybe OP can let us know his results of the fluid change as a point of reference.

 

You are aware they do sell boats?

 

I had a FJ-55 when I was in high school back in the 70's and the differentials on that pig spent a lot of time under water! I never changed the gear oil once, hell I never even thought about it. I abused that truck for 7 years before I joined the Navy and it never had a single gear box issue. Maybe they just made things tougher back then?

PS: I wish I had that FJ-55 now!

 

I've got water in my diff from crossings before.

Don't know what you mean by link to instances, you can try searching "water in diff" but it happens to plenty of people.

Hot axle/trans/gearbox hit's cold water and the air inside shrinks making negative pressure in the cases and that can suck in water once that pressure equalizes the stock breather pops back up when there's no longer vacuum being drawn on the case and it basically becomes an open hole for water to pour right in.

Extending the breather is cheap easy and gets it above the reasonable water line so you don't have to worry about the pressure equalizing and leaving an open hole in your cases.

It's probably not necessary if you're only in water for only a minute or two but if you're doing regular crossings or have the potential of getting stuck in water over the breathers it's a very very good idea.

 

More money than sense.

 

Stock breather allows air OUT quickly but not IN.

Hot diff dunked in water cools housing, creating vaccum, air cant come in the breather much if at all, so it gets sucked in via the seals which if they are under water will suck in water. Doing the diff breather mod using the stock breather as some have done is pointless as it doesnt get rid of the problem of the one way breather valve, hence why the breather mod utilizes just a standard breather cap (like found on the front diff - tcase - trans) that breaths both ways and gets it above the water line.

 

Stock breather is a one-way valve. Technically, it should not let water in. My theory would be a hot diff being quickly cooled by being submerged in water could create a vacuum and pull some water in. That is only an idea though.

 

Again, I get the whole concept of what is supposedly happening. I was just looking for some examples of people confirming it does happen, and not just hearsay. From some quick searching it seems that 95% of the threads are people worried about it happening after a water crossing, everyone telling them to drain their diffs and then do the diff breather extension, citing these exact reasons, without anyone (other than @Key-Rei) making threads saying "hey, I did a water crossing, drained the diffs, and confirmed there was a bunch of water in there." Not saying it can't happen, but from the difficulty I'm having finding cases of it happen, I still stand by my opinion that it's not even remotely common or something worth worrying about.

 

I'de venture to say it's probably not common to post about it because it's basically saying "Hey I knew better and messed up look at this water in my diff." and those people who know take care of it without posting about it, I don't think I ever did before, and those people whom don't know about it being an issue typically aren't the ones who do deep or extended water crossings and thus don't encounter the problem.

The stock setup is more than effective enough for the vast majority of users.

Those that it isn't enough for typically have heard of and done the mods to prevent it further and thus also don't encounter the issue.

And again those that still do have the problem more than likely just don't post about it.

 

Please tell me that you weren't trailing the Pathfinder and he made it.

 

Gutted the interior

 

Yeah, good points. Part of me still thinks it would be included on the rear diff for boat launches if Toyota thought it was a problem. But then again, I'm sure it does happen.

BRB, gonna go park my truck in a few feet of water for a few days just so I have an excuse to change my fluids early. I'll report my findings, with pictures! /s

 

run the heat on full blast with a/c and recirculate on for 3-4 hours to make sure everything gets dried out. then start cleaning. hit all the electrical stuff with electronics cleaner/wd-40 to dry out the connections and prevent corrosion.

edit: or just gut the interior. that works too.

 

you could probably take the carpet/matting to a dry cleaners to get it real clean

 

i guess the pathfinder found the right path

 

Yeah, that looks one of those situations where a horse would have been better..

 

Yeah, my 2020 has it.