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3rd Gen HID vs LED vs Halogen H11 projector headlights

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016+)' started by crashnburn80, Jan 25, 2019.

  1. Oct 3, 2020 at 2:53 PM
    #3341
    smikec

    smikec Well-Known Member

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    I bought mine from powerbulbs.com
    $58CAD then a 20% discount, free worldwide shipping.
    However - they are sold out.

    I understand branding has been changed to Tungsram, which might explain the sold-out status
    They are available here, no free shipping, but the total price is similar to powerbulbs:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/193553243494

    I didn't find any shipped from Canada
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2020
  2. Oct 3, 2020 at 2:57 PM
    #3342
    HeyWannaTaco

    HeyWannaTaco Well-Known Member

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  3. Oct 3, 2020 at 4:49 PM
    #3343
    HeyWannaTaco

    HeyWannaTaco Well-Known Member

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    I took a chance and ordered from the ebay link. being shipped from the UK, fingers crossed they arrive in good shape! Thanks again @smikec !
     
    davidstacoma likes this.
  4. Oct 3, 2020 at 7:03 PM
    #3344
    Team Scream

    Team Scream Well-Known Member

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    Old Man $538.00 Sound System Upgrade w/Kicker DS in the doors, and a Cerwin Vega VPAS10 powered (10") sub under the drivers seat.
    I have, but you need a plastic welder to do it correctly.

    You can get a good plastic welder at Harbor freight for like $70.00 :

    https://www.harborfreight.com/weldi...r-motor-and-temperature-adjustment-96712.html

    You can get a cheap one for $17.00 that comes with screen and various plastic rods :

    https://www.harborfreight.com/weldi...s/80-watt-iron-plastic-welding-kit-60662.html

    It is a good idea to practice on some old parts of similar composition like an old car bumper for example because it is really easy to go too hot on the welder, and melt the rest of the tab in the process of trying to fix it, especially with the hot air ($70.00) plastic welder in the first link.

    I use aluminum screen material as reinforcement and just melt it in across the back/hidden side of the broken section to add additional support/strength. When done properly, the repaired section is stronger than the part was before it was broken because of the reinforcement.

    Here is a pic of the job partly done. When finished, the screen is almost completely melted into (submerged) into the part and it becomes bulletproof. I jsut failed to take pics of the finished product before I put the lights back on the truck.... This set of lights were shipped to me with a broken tab. The tab was broken completely off on this light.20200925_125606.jpg 20200925_125540.jpg
     
  5. Oct 3, 2020 at 9:36 PM
    #3345
    Rat_Bastard

    Rat_Bastard Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for letting me know! I never knew plastic welders existed!! Apparently back in the day, Toyota sold a repair kit for these tabs.
     
  6. Oct 4, 2020 at 8:32 AM
    #3346
    johnnyroid

    johnnyroid Well-Known Member

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  7. Oct 4, 2020 at 8:58 AM
    #3347
    crashnburn80

    crashnburn80 [OP] Vehicle Design Engineer

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    Go Hawks!
    Definitely fair, they are not cheap. However closer to $30/ea with the coupon, making them just over $60/pr. While that is pricey, that is a similar price point and only slightly higher than the best performing GE Xenons. But! The GEs are spec’d at 150 hour life span (IIRC) whereas the Philips H11 Pros are 400 hours. So if the Philips performance is comparable, that would actually make them a more economic option. TBD.
     
    Toy_Runner and xxTacocaTxx like this.
  8. Oct 4, 2020 at 9:13 AM
    #3348
    johnnyroid

    johnnyroid Well-Known Member

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    That's fair, I should have taken time to do the math. Thank you!
     
    crashnburn80 [OP] likes this.
  9. Oct 5, 2020 at 5:54 PM
    #3349
    prone2xl

    prone2xl Well-Known Member

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    Hey @crashnburn80 and @tattooedsnake I just ordered some Philips +150 Pros in the H1 bulb to try out on the Spyder lights so we will see... fingers crossed.. I used the code posted to get the discount. coming from the UK so no telling how long it will take to get to me but they send a shipped email today. I only bought one pair and don't know what i'll end up putting in the high beam spot. My lights were recently replaced by body shop after a fender bender. no idea which ones I actually have as i'm sure they went aftermarket cheapie on me ! what recommendation do yall have for the other light. I think its the corner lens for these projector assemblies ?
     
  10. Oct 5, 2020 at 6:39 PM
    #3350
    crashnburn80

    crashnburn80 [OP] Vehicle Design Engineer

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    Go Hawks!
    Should help, some. High efficiency performance bulbs rely on precision optics for the performance gain. If the headlight assembly optics are poor/garbage, then having a more precise filament bulb doesn’t work the same way it does in a precision engineered headlight assembly. Pretty much anything is better than Spyder, but if they look the same they probably came from the same place regardless of the brand label. Should have taken that opportunity to press for new OEM assemblies!
     
  11. Oct 5, 2020 at 6:48 PM
    #3351
    prone2xl

    prone2xl Well-Known Member

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    Hindsight indeed ! Will the 55W be alright ? It looks like the xtremevision +130 are also 55W. What’s the biggest difference in the 2 ? Thanks as always
     
  12. Oct 5, 2020 at 7:00 PM
    #3352
    crashnburn80

    crashnburn80 [OP] Vehicle Design Engineer

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    A standard H1 is 55w, they will be fine. +150 should have a more precise filament than the +130, when paired with quality optics it should equate to a higher intensity hot spot for improved distance projection.
     
  13. Oct 5, 2020 at 7:09 PM
    #3353
    GarlicFarts

    GarlicFarts Bang Ding Ow

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    So, I have HIDs in my 3rd gen projectors. I am currently running 6000k bulbs that came with the kit. For the winter I wanted to drop in some 3000k yellow bulbs. I bought some on Amazon and I have a feeling they sent the wrong ones.

    Purple.

    Question being, is it possible the bulbs are right and they SHOUKD be yellow and it’s my truck that’s the issue?

    I have the opt7 boltzen 35W ballasts. My 6000k lights are bang on though so I’m more leaning toward....they sent me purple ones.

    return already initiated and ordered a replacement set, just curious if anyone had a similar experience (I know about the green light, this is not green though).

    FB2C49E0-AEEF-4B63-8457-9155BC017033.jpg
    84A33DE8-A0F2-48E0-AC3C-B50B0FF3E966.jpg
     
  14. Oct 5, 2020 at 7:35 PM
    #3354
    crashnburn80

    crashnburn80 [OP] Vehicle Design Engineer

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    Go Hawks!
    Notice those blocks of uplight above your cut off pattern? That is illegal blinding glare to oncoming drivers, caused by using HIDs in a projector meant for halogens. An HID projector does not have that issue.

    But to answer your question, bulb color is a function of the bulb, not ballast. They sent you the wrong ones.
     
    RedWings44, ownubad and RoostrC0gburn like this.
  15. Oct 5, 2020 at 7:40 PM
    #3355
    Puppypunter

    Puppypunter Well-Known Member

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    I love it! Absolutely would hate having it from a functional stand point, but I love the purple light. That being said, I hope I'm never in oncoming traffic with you :rofl:
     
    El Duderino likes this.
  16. Oct 5, 2020 at 7:51 PM
    #3356
    davidstacoma

    davidstacoma Friendly Curmudgeon

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    Shouldn’t be an issue, mine weren’t flush cut either and they fit fine.
     
  17. Oct 6, 2020 at 4:29 AM
    #3357
    GarlicFarts

    GarlicFarts Bang Ding Ow

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    1. o_O today I learned. I’ve read the post before briefly but didn’t know it was that bad. Might nix the HIDs entirely then, there are yellow halogen low beams. I also haven’t secured the ballasts so they’re sort of bouncing around and a pain anyway. Thanks for the heads up.

    2. Glad I wasn’t doing something very dumb and somehow had yellow and thought it looked purple. It’s very purple and I don’t think I’m colorblind.

    it was groovy. But not the intention, it would probably make it worse in the snow.
     
    crashnburn80 [OP] likes this.
  18. Oct 6, 2020 at 7:36 AM
    #3358
    THE_KiRRAx

    THE_KiRRAx Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the replies guys, got my bulbs (Philips H9s) modified and dropped them in a few nights ago, I can definitely tell an instant difference and I hadn't even gone down the unlit roads yet. I do need to get my ass in gear and double check the aiming since I am sitting on a 2 lift/level so want to make sure I'm not blinding anyone, though the only person who has said anything yet was the lowered Honda in the Chik-fil-A drive thru. He wasn't happy, lol. Thanks again!

    Oh, also, when aiming headlights does anyone have the exact specs for drop? Like, how many inches at what distance? I've read mixed opinions of 2" or 4", both at 25'. Just curious...have not looked in manual to see if it is in there, figured it wouldn't be.
     
    davidstacoma likes this.
  19. Oct 6, 2020 at 7:56 AM
    #3359
    daveeasa

    daveeasa Slowest crimp in the West

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    I attempted H9 bulb modification with a box cutter, it did not work very well. I suppose dremel is mandatory? Or have people had ok luck with tinsnips or other tools? It was harder than I thought it would be, making the adaptor harness slightly more appealing (especially if you had to swap highs and lows due to bulb burnout on a trip)

    For aiming.
     
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  20. Oct 6, 2020 at 8:05 AM
    #3360
    avi8or_co

    avi8or_co Well-Known Member

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    I used the blade from a box cutter, holding it with a small plier to not injure your hand. The blade was brand new and it went through the plastic tab very easily. I also trimmed the mounting tab to make it easier to insert the bulb, for that I use a small side cutter like you would cut a wire or zip tie with. Took 2 min for both bulbs.
     
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