3rd Gen or 4x4 Conversion?

Update from yesterday:
Went back to that private lot to pick up the parts. The guy pulled the parts for me off the truck which was super nice of him and saved me a lot of time!

He also converted the truck to a convertible, which is pretty cool

Now the plan is to take them apart, figure out how they work, and clean them up.

Additionally, I now think I will send the CV axels to get rebuilt since I have the cores.

So far, I am ~$415 deep

Also, I am doing vlogs that you can follow along with me here

 

Buckle up Buttercups:
Got some big brain questions for y'all!
1. Can a TC from a 4Cyl be installed on a 6Cyl?
2. Is a TC from an auto or manual interchangeable?
3. Are drive shafts from a manual tran with manual TC the same length as an auto tran and TC?
4. Can a J case TC from an A340F be installed on an A340E?

Trying to figure out all my options as far as trans and TC. Thanks in advance!

 

Assuming Transfer case=torque converter?

 

Ah, no.

Completely different things.

I guess it was just the context it was used in; type things out as it makes things easy to understand.

No abbreviations.

I will delete the above post and answer again.

 

1. No, the input gears on an I4 are 26 spline and V6 are 23 spline.

3. Unsure on drive shaft, easy fix as any drive line shop can cut and rebalance one for you.

4. Same transmission case so it'll match up if the transmission is from a 4x4. You can't mate a transfer case to an automatic transmission from a 4x2 (your currently installed unit) because the output shaft is different.

 

I'm new to this swap as well. So just trying to make sure we get all the right parts.

Does the manual transfer case have to be from a 6cly? I'm guessing from the above reply yes as the spines are different and that makes sense to me.

A340E and A340F do they share the same spline and bolt pattern for the manual transfer case to bolt up?

I know people get drive shafts modified but for a "bolt in" plan will an auto V6 with transfer case drive be a direct swap over? Also does it matter of that drive shaft is from an A340E or A340F?

 

Update:
Going with J&J Axle Supply for the CV rebuilds. They are doing $300 for the pair with a 2 year warranty!

Reminder: If you are trying to explain what you want your CV axle rebuilt for and they say manual or automatic they are talking about the hubs not the transmission

 

LOL once you start getting more involved with the 4x4 process you'll pick up on that stuff more quickly lol. The manual hub axles vs ADD ones are very similar but different enough that they aren't interchangeable. I learned that the hard way once when I got a manual hub axle by mistake and tried installing it.

 

1- as was answered above, no. must be like for like v6 to v6, or 4cyl to 4cyl.
2- I have read that the answer here is no. If you want a tcase for behind an auto, you have to find one that came from behind an auto (and likewise for a manual version...) But i am not 100%. I'll edit if i find different info.
3- definitely no. The auto and manual transmissions are not the same length, thus, driveshaft lengths (both front and rear) are different between the auto and manual trucks. You'll want front and rear shafts from a 4x4 auto donor if you're keeping your auto trans. (Or get just front and get the rear resized).
4- if you swap out the tailhousings and the output shaft to the 4x4 version, yes, you can bolt a tcase up to the A340E (you essentially would be converting it to an A340F...) but swapping out the output shaft requires almost complete tear-down of the auto trans.

When I did my prerunner to 4x4 conversion, i made it easy and bought a A340F 4x4 transmission *and* j-shift tcase combo still mated together. Came out of a 3rd Gen 4Runner. Found it local to me at a wrecking yard using car-part and only paid $125 bucks for the combo. Sure made the swap super easy not having to fiddle with changing anything around or trying to figure out which tcase would bolt up. I did have to swap out the kickdown cable controllers between them, but that was no big deal, the one from the A340E swapped right over. I believe this to be from a slight different model year or cause it was a 4runner. I think i got kinda lucky there. I would recommend trying to find one from the same year as yours is.

(Side-note here, I also used my original pre-runner torque-converter with the 4x4 auto behind it. I have heard rumor that the prerunner torque converter has a higher stall rate and therefor makes the auto a bit more peppy/responsive. Mine seemed to be pretty peppy. But, take that with a grain of salt as I'm not an expert on the torque converter stalls. heh.)

 

Another thing on the transmission/tcase that I can't remember if was mentioned is the speedo gear/sensor (also referred to as VSS or vehicle speed sensor). On the PreRunner, the speedo sensor is on the trans tail-shaft section, but on the Tacoma 4x4 its on the transfer case. Try to get a tcase that still has the VSS on it. You'll have to extend the wiring a little bit as the spot on the tcase is a few inches further towards the rear of the truck. Not a huge deal, but something to keep in mind. I wouldn't pass up the right tcase if it didn't have it--you can always find on ebay or something (which is what I actually had to do...)

 

Can also order a gear with a different tooth count to correct for larger tires if needed. I have a part number somewhere for it.

 

The knowledge in here always blows me away. Interested to see your finished product.

 

Spend 5 minutes in the 3rd gen section and that should convince you to do a conversion.



Glad you are doing it the "right" way and keeping the Best Gen.

 

Need help, trying to get the CV axles out so I can get them sent to Cali to get rebuilt. I don’t know what to do at this step, is this where y’all said there’s that weird nut on the backside?

 

You didn't remove the hub body per the method I typed up earlier.

Pull that off and you'll see a snap ring holding the axle in place.

 

The bolts on each of the red studs need to be place back on, flush with the stud.

Rest brass drift on the stud/bolt.

Whack drift with 2 or 3 solid whacks, and the cone washer at the base of the hub body will pop up.

Do so for each one, and once all removed, hub body will come up and out.

At that point, more of the axle shaft will be exposed.

There is a snap ring, depicted by the yellow arrow, on the axle that keeps it from backing out of the spindle.

You're skipping steps trying to get the axle out which is why it won't come out.

 

@KidWithATacoma this is my post from earlier; you'll see in the picture with both my axles/spindles, the one on the left has the manual hub completely removed -

You can see the washer and snap ring that needs removing.

Just remember, everything has been covered. Go back through this thread and you have the answer to all your questions.

 

Thanks!

 

Just be careful with the hub body; it's really soft and can dent easily.

 

Update: Got the cone washers off! And now I am about to go get a pair of snap ring pliers