3rd Gen Owners with King Coilovers

Guys...anyone have any idea how we could get a GB going on a set of extended travel with or without adjusters? I’m sure we could get enough people interested. I’m just not sure what company would be best to organize this.

 

I think 10% is the best you'll get, with free shipping. By far @Downsouth Motorsports had the best deal on BF - 10% + Free Shipping and great communication.

 

If anyone wants King’s or knows someone in the market for them, there is a GB thread in that section.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/gauging-interest-in-a-king-suspension-gb-2nd-3rd-gens.594420/

 

Anyone know if you are able to purchase the new "clamps" that come with the 3.0 shocks? The new king blue ones that replaced the hose clamps. I hate hose clamps, we are mortal enemies. Should also probably ask if they will fit a 2.5 rezzy.

Mounting points may be different as well, so this question may not even be relevant, but what the hell right.

 

I have a 2018 DCSB TRD OffRoad 4x4. On Order: I have Deaver u402 Stage 3 (have a lot of always on rear weight with camper. and the Kings 2.5 setup front and back, TC UCAs, and front and rear hydraulic bump stops.
I will post pictures when I get everything installed.

 

Ray10's and tires going on tomorrow

 

Are you doing stock travel Kings?

 

Anyone have any ideas on why I'm getting clunking noises on the passenger side when I hit larger bumps?

 

Did you check torque everywhere? I had a clunk develop and it was due to my driver side UCA bolt loosening up, probably 2 months after install. Tightened up in December and has been fine ever since, just check it every few weeks now.

 

I had the same issue and I went over everything again a week or so ago. Still getting that noise though

 

Damn that’s unfortunate! Are you getting it at slow speed as well as higher speeds? I’ve heard of some brands of UCA rubbing coils in certain set ups but I’m not sure how you’d diagnose that unless you could set up a go pro under the wheel well or a buddy that trusts you watching it from up close! During my research on my clunk I saw a few older threads about LCA bushings deteriorating prematurely and needing to be replaced to fix clunk but in an ‘18 I wouldn’t think it’d be that? Sorry man!

 

Check the front bracket that the reservior attaches to. Mine was bent in towards the frame, and every time I go over something bumpy it would hit. Bent it out a bit, and now no noise.

 

Ok, so I just swapped the 650 coils off of my Kings for 700's. Never used the 650's but there are some spots where the powder coating is scraped off from the spring compressors. If anyone wants them, 100 bucks and you pay shipping. They are boxed and ready to go.

 

Could be a bad shock - the shock could have lost nitrogen charge or the piston nut came loose and the piston assembly is shuttling.

 

Hey y’all,
Bout to pull the trigger on some Kings in the near future, the shop that’s doing the lift and everything have a deal that includes wheels and tires. They claim they can throw on 285/70/17 or 285/75/16 with some KO2’s and NO RUBBING. I had to ask twice and even told the guy that running tires that wide will rub regardless of how high the lift. He assured me that they won’t rub even at full lock. He said “we do this lift every day”.
I’ve only read a few times were some TW members didn’t have to do a CMC just some light trimming.
Does this sound like bs ? Or have any of you ran this set up and didnt require a CMC. (I wonder if they claim no rubbing specifically running the KO2’s based on their width).
TIA!

 

My advice is to get a CMC anyway. Your in LA. Hit up @GHOST SHIP

 

I was trying to look something up oh, unfortunately couldn't find it. But you already know what's going on, it's so sporadic that someone doesn't have to do CMC... So, just as stated previously just do it!

 

I have 265 70 17 and have rubbing in reverse with the steering wheel fully locked. So I'm calling b.s. That being said, I would just plan on getting the CMC when done. You won't regret the Kings and if you don't get the 285's you'll be wishing you did.

 

Wheel offset plays into this quite a bit also.

 

There are a lot of variables when it comes to this question- wheel backspacing, alignment numbers, the amount of preload on your kings once installed, weight on your truck (including driver) and so on. It's hard to say who's truck will require more trimming than the next. I can tell you personal experience that 3rd gens have a lot more plastic and bits of sheet metal that protrude into the wheel well so at the very least you'll be trimming a lot at the lower fender flare. As far as the CMC, it's not unheard of to have no contact there. I had been running 295/70-17 Cooper ST Maxx with Method Standards (4.75" backspacing) and Icon stage IV (what everyone calls 3" lift) for years and never needed a CMC. A bunch of guys will automatically call bullshit or say that I don't wheel and only go to the mall and drive in a straight line to get there. However I recently swapped to SCS wheels that have about 4.3" backspacing using the same tires and now I need a CMC without changing my alignment or anything else.. You can see how slight a difference will affect how much you rub. Whenever I do a CMC, I always make it a point to go over all of that with the owner because I feel it's important for them to know the "why" as much as the "how". Even then there are a few different ways to do a CMC and one guy might net you more clearance than the guy down the street that knows how to weld.

Bottom line is if he's saying absolutely no trimming, I call bullshit. At the very least you'll be cutting plastic. More than likely if your truck will see some flexing or rough terrain, I'd recommend getting the CMC because you'll find out off road where the contact points are and it'll be bad.

If you're interested in getting one let me know and I can go over it all with you. I'm in North LA